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Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Transmission - Rearend> TH 350 Reverse Manual Valve-body Questions
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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-27-2011 04:00 AM
Stanley H Crosley has hit the nail on the head. 99% of the time if you have huge tires and a high rpm shift the standard sprag will go. You get a aftermarket sprag from TCI or Coan.They are pretty pricy but they work as for the Transgo shift kit I dont think you will be able to use it as the reverse pattern VB has it's own spacer plate but I stand under correction Hope this will help.
11-24-2011 09:00 PM
Crosley The converter will need to be cut open and cleaned , also checked for any damage inside, check hub, ect.

Reverse pattern valve bodys are usaully built for max effort shifts, so yes the accumilators are often deleted.

There are a couple of folks here that will post up some links for your parts chasing .

It may be a broken 2nd gear sprag race and related parts to that sprag. that is just a guess at this point till the unit is torn down
11-24-2011 08:49 PM
TH 350 Reverse Manual Valve-body Questions

I am new to this, but here it goes. I bought a Th350 Mega Monster S/S tranny from Monster trans and performance about 3 years ago. Now I know that this isn't the norm for this site but the tranny is a 4x4 version and it is in a Jeep Wrangler with a SB 350 in it mated to a NP205 t-case, but i don't think it should make much difference because it is related to the inner workings of a th350 which would probably benefit everyone who had these questions but never could find the answers, like me. Anyways, I bought the trans, installed it and decided to redo the front suspension completely. During the 8 month period of redoing the front suspension the warranty on the trans. had expired. After the Jeep was roadworthy, I took it for a couple of runs and everything was working great, tranny shifted firm, no slip when you got on it. Just when I thought that everything was good to go, I took my buddy for a ride. To make a long story short, shifted from first to second at about 5500 rpms, the tranny made noises that I didn't want to hear. I was able to limp the rig home. Dropped the pan and saw the carnage. The pan had random pieces of metal from very fine shavings to pieces of what appears to the the cage for one of the sprag clutches. Called Monster Trans and talked to the about it and explained that yes i have have the tranny for a long time but it probably only had 25 miles on it and that when you pay $2000.00 dollars for a trans you would expect it to last a little longer than it did. They wouldn't honor the warranty at all which is understandable due to the length of time that i had the tranny. When I had ordered the tranny, I ordered it with a full reverse manual valve body and they did some "custom tuning" to accommodate for possible forced induction sometime in the future. Instead of shipping it back to them and letting them take some more of my money I just plan to rebuild it myself . My questions are as follows:
1. Are all reverse manual valve-bodies the basically the same?
2. When you have a reverse manual valve-body will all the shift reprogram kits work with them or do you have to order specific ones?
3. Is there a Parts breakdown out there with valid PN's if i need a small bushing or something of that nature that might now come with a rebuild kit?
4. The Jeep has 38.5" super swamper boggers on it with a spooled 14-bolt so therefore the tires do not "chirp" when I shift high it the rpms. I am pretty sure that they either completely removed the 1-2 accumulator or screwed with the valve-body enough that it probably does not serve a purpose any more. How do I go about fixing that issue? Will the trans-go 1-2 kit come with what I need or do i need to find a donor trans and take parts out of that?
4. I have heard rumors that once you loose a tranny like I did, you need to replace the torque converter, don't bother trying to get a tranny shop to clean it out, but to actually throw it out and buy a new one. I don't have a problem getting a new one but i just want to make sure that I am not getting rid of a perfectly good $350.00 converter if it could be cleaned out. Is this true?

I know that this is a lot to take in but i was just trying to give everyone the history of what happened and trying to be as through as possible. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

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