|01-12-2012 02:13 PM|
It a very common mistake I must see at least 2 a year !!
Your thank you makes my day
Thank you for that: Chris
|01-12-2012 01:05 PM|
|01-12-2012 11:10 AM|
|01-11-2012 06:22 PM|
Painted jester, thanks for that info.
Many years ago I had exactly the same problem on a T-bucket, Buick front discs and master cylinder. It would start dragging even if we were just towing the car. For the life of me I couldn't figure out what it was at the time (20 years ago).
At the race track I disabled the front brakes and ran just using the emergency brake...couldn't get the pedal to stay up after I put the front brakes out of action.
I am almost 100% certain it was because I didn't put the prop valve in right.
Thankfully no one got hurt.
|01-11-2012 04:09 PM|
|painted jester||Did you find the problem ?|
|01-09-2012 07:23 PM|
|RWENUTS||What are you running for a M/C? You might have an old one with residual check valves in it. The front only needs 2 lbs. The back 10 lbs.|
|01-09-2012 06:53 PM|
Its an easy check when your brakes are tight and the pedal is all the way up crack a bleeder if there is a lot of pressure this might be your problem.
A master cylinder with a sticking internal piston can cause this too!
These are only a couple of things that can cause your problem! There are more!!
|01-09-2012 05:45 PM|
|T-bucket23||I would look at the brake hoses|
|01-09-2012 05:33 PM|
|01-09-2012 05:05 PM|
I recently changed a set of front rotors and disc on my 1957 Chev.. Bel Air because they had built up so much that they actually caught fire and stop the vehicle from rolling. I originally thought they pistons wear gummed up from sitting so long causing them to drag and the resulting heat build up. So... not the case I changed them for a new set of CCP 11in. brakes and rotors and Iam experiencing the same problem. Can any one tell me what I am doing wrong