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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-20-2017 09:37 AM
Richard D I made some up this weekend, i put an open flame to it and noticed a 60 degree difference!
03-16-2017 10:28 AM
Richard D I got some microballons last night, I want to do a test tonight, can you give me a rough idea of what worked? We are pressure washing the bottom of the 'Vette (fiberglass floors) this weekend, I want to paint the undercarriage before installing the engine. I'd like to read all of this, but I am in a time crunch. I will post my results.
03-13-2017 12:05 PM
hduff No updates. It really needs to be summarized and added to the wiki.

All I would like to know is if anybody used Lizard Skin and got the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) and could post the contents information from it. That could settle several several questions.

Sometimes it's interesting what you can learn. For example, the expensive thinner sold by POR-15 is nothing more than mineral spirits which is cheap by the gallon at a local big-box, hardware or paint store.
03-13-2017 11:58 AM
Richard D It's been a couple years, any updates to this?
09-05-2014 07:47 PM
PapaG Some people were questioning the aluminum reflecting part being on the top of the p&s product. Here in the south where it gets very hot in the summer we have been using a radiant heat barring. It is a type "insulation" that reflects up to 95% from a heat source. Lots of brands, Big on home-green radio stations.
Radiant Barrier & Bubble Foil Insulation | Innovative Insulation Inc.

Lowes and HD should carry something like this.

My thoughts on this would be put this down first using what ever glue product seems to best way to you. Then use whatever you would be next, P&S, DM, KEEP cool, etc.It Should work any where. Used on Motor homes. Then go next with which of these products that you believe is the best product you think is best. Also how many of the those other insulating- nose blocking product you like.

Note I am not trying to change any ones mind on what they want to use.

DanTwoLakes makes some good points as some others others do.. I happen to agree that most of these companies make two products, one for sound and another one for heat. LS does and so does DM. I am not going back to check all the links on everything talked about. In reading through several threads on here and at least to on the HAMB. No one discussed the radiant barrier products. Rave reviews on home sites. Makes sense to me.
I do know some one who has used it is his house, big difference. He can even get in his Attic.You can walk up there in the dead zone in summer in South Texas.

I am going to do this in winter on my house.... My attic is a death zone now.

Just my two cents... HTH
07-11-2014 06:14 AM
Originally Posted by JeepFreak21 View Post

Many thanks to Vince and all those who contributed here!
The first post is from 12-01-2006 and it's been active ever since.

I use a high solids latex paint, the cheapest of which turns out to be white ceiling paint, adding one quart of the ceramic microspheres to one gallon of paint. To spray it, I use a rented airless sprayer from Home Depot with the filters removed (there's one in the gun itself that people forget about) and a .025 tip. Of course, the spheres can be added to any paint and can also be brushed or rolled on.

I've also used process this to paint the interior walls and ceiling of my shop, my attic at home and the exterior of my business. It definitely is worth the effort.
07-10-2014 11:11 AM
JeepFreak21 This thread brought me to your great forum here. I am very excited as this seems to be EXACTLY what I was looking for! Not only that, but I clicked on ONE other thread which was highlighted at the bottom of one page and it solved another problem that I've been wrestling with for a while. I'm a Jeep guy, not a hot rodder (someday!), but I've exhausted the off road forums for a few dilemmas I've got... I can't wait to see how many other problems I can solve searching around here!

Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
That is what I was thinking also .the bubble wrap will probably melt and I would keep a fire extinguisher close by as latex paint is flammable as is the bubble wrap.

the fumes from hot latex could be toxic also ,,,I would check before putting it under hood next to extreme heat. Just saying
This is one of my biggest concerns with many of these products. Not just that they're flammable, but many bedliners and asphalt-based products are VERY hard to put out once they start burning. I was relieved to see this post (which should be added to the wiki), but I will be doing my own test as well...
Originally Posted by Hi Rise View Post
...One of the nice things about it as it will not burn. I sprayed 3 layers on a test panel. Let it cure, scraped some off held a match to it. The flames just dies out immediately It will not support combustion.
Many thanks to Vince and all those who contributed here!
05-04-2014 05:55 PM
302 Z28
Originally Posted by DADSSUB View Post
What about bed liner? Would it help with sound deadening?
Not a good alternative as it has very low heat dissipation and dries way too hard.

05-03-2014 03:53 PM
Mrrman Watching this thread...the lizard product is way overpriced so I always avoided it.
10-13-2013 07:54 AM
DADSSUB What about bed liner? Would it help with sound deadening?
10-13-2013 07:51 AM
DADSSUB Is the Lizard Skin mixture for sound reduction or temperature reduction?
10-12-2013 08:51 PM
Big_John Following up on my post, I did my deck lid on my Chrysler today.

I mixed the micro-balloons I got from Wicks with a quart of Rustoleam latex paint. The mixture was thick, but still pourable. I removed the deck lid and striped out the lock etc. and taped all the openings except one access hole near the latch and the two holes where the hinges go in.

I poured the mixture in the three holes, and after sealing them with more tape, I then left it standing on each of its sides for a few minutes. As it dried, I left it in each position a little longer, spending most of its time laying face down.

When I was done, I removed the tape and propped it up on saw horses face up and let it drip for a while. To my surprise, not a lot of paint dripped out.

Got it cleaned up and put it back on the car later. First thing I noticed was the trunk closed with a much less "tinny" sound. When you knock on the sheet metal, it almost sounds like knocking on fibreglass, rather than the steel panel.

So.... I'd say it worked. If I were to do it again, I would mix up more than a quart of paint, but that's the only thing I would do different.
10-03-2013 05:50 PM
hduff The top ten reasons are: COST.

Those insulating glass microspheres mentioned can be added to any paint.
10-03-2013 03:15 PM
DADSSUB Not that old of thread so I'm hoping people area still paying attention to it.

Was interested in finding out what the results were if you used some other paint instead of house latex. Our fab shop has a really nice primer they put on industrial duct work that I am planning on using inside my body.

I'm also a little confused why you would put the home made lizard skin over Dynamat? Don't they both do the same thing?
09-15-2013 12:42 PM
Originally Posted by herb58 View Post
do one test panel first using outdoor latex. or alkyd enamel better .at menards for 24 bucks a gallon. keep us posted on test
I'm thinking of using Latex just for ease of cleanup. I'm thinking this will make a mess.
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