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Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 03:46 AM
123pugsy
Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post

By the way, before you ask, there are no U bolts on the U joints so I just can't drop the driveshaft, I have to move the rear end back pulling the yoke out.

Brian
Are you saying, you must assemble the u joints right on the car to install them?
Yesterday 08:05 PM
MARTINSR Sooooooo I am in the house sick. My brother came by to get his fender and he and Nick looked at the Rambler and he came to the conclusion that the fork spring to bell housing has fallen off. I will need to move the bell housing back or to go ahead and move the rear end back so I can pull the tranny off to fix it, great.

By the way, before you ask, there are no U bolts on the U joints so I just can't drop the driveshaft, I have to move the rear end back pulling the yoke out.

Brian
Yesterday 05:54 PM
idrivejunk
Quote:
Originally Posted by cozwurth View Post
Good point, IDJ... I'll have to do a little digging to see if I can turn up the GM weight capacity specs for those wheels. I would actually like to have a set of the old style truck rally wheels, but in 17" instead of 15.

Dave
I like steelies too. Wheel Vintiques does make some reasonably priced bigger new ones, probably others also-

https://www.wheelvintiques.com/wheels/truck.html

I am in a wrestling match with my GTP sunroof today. At least the sun shade part. The fabric is deteriorating and causing interference. Meh. I went and read that blue truck article and enjoyed it. But they say it has a stock bed floor under the wood. That was one thing that I did was to install a fabbed bed floor but the article would say I'm a liar. Nothing new there. The original floor was useless and replacements are only available in quarter sections.
Yesterday 05:11 PM
cozwurth After my youngest daughter's birthday party, I took the truck over to the shop to remove the impact strips on the sides of the truck. I knew that the 3rd door had been worked on, but man, what crappy work it is. All of the paint behind the strip peeled off, revealing bondo and rust. Not happy. Then, I get to the driver side, same thing.
Yesterday 02:52 PM
cozwurth
Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
I don't see a good choice there, fit-wise. I would be concerned that GM made those wheels to hold up vehicles that are much lighter.
Good point, IDJ... I'll have to do a little digging to see if I can turn up the GM weight capacity specs for those wheels. I would actually like to have a set of the old style truck rally wheels, but in 17" instead of 15.

Dave
Yesterday 02:31 PM
496CHEVY3100 Mabe broken fingers on pressure plate
Yesterday 10:43 AM
idrivejunk
Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
I am thinking you guys are right, the fork just moves way too much. In out, up down, way too much.

The bummer is, my Gran Sport is down with a leaking radiator! I need to fire that up and bring it to my radiator guy (only a few blocks from my house) and have him look at it while in the car to see it before I take it out and give it to him (as per his request) so we know if it should be repaired or replaced. It kills me, it was found to be leaking last August! I didn't do anything about it because it didn't matter, I wasn't driving it, now I need it and it's not usable. Geeez


Brian
It does pay to keep two DD type rides working. I keep the "other" one at my folks' place, Mom likes it.

On another note, I was hunting an article and clicked the HRN main page. The blue truck was the first thing I saw. Wicked, have not read it but am about to go savor the write up. I didn't do much on it but some. Broke leg buddy did most of it. The August mag will have this article I think-

This 1967 Ford F-100 Ranger proves Heath Taylor inherited great taste - Hot Rod Network
Yesterday 10:33 AM
MARTINSR
Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
Hope you get to feeling better, this week has been rough for me too. I can't believe you didn't take the belt from your trousers and fab new linkage from scratch already but it is kinda sounding like the retainer at the throwout bearing end of the fork may have snafu'ed on ya. If I were you, I'd mentally prepare to endure the pain of trans removal. At least you can do it laying down.
I am thinking you guys are right, the fork just moves way too much. In out, up down, way too much.

The bummer is, my Gran Sport is down with a leaking radiator! I need to fire that up and bring it to my radiator guy (only a few blocks from my house) and have him look at it while in the car to see it before I take it out and give it to him (as per his request) so we know if it should be repaired or replaced. It kills me, it was found to be leaking last August! I didn't do anything about it because it didn't matter, I wasn't driving it, now I need it and it's not usable. Geeez


Brian
Yesterday 10:30 AM
MARTINSR
Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
If the clip holding the fork to the ball was broken from fatigue before the rod fell off, the fork could drop off the pivot ball. It should be fairly easy to determine that by trying to push/pull the fork straight in and out from the bellhousing. If the clip is intact and holding the fork on the ball, there will be very little movement in that direction.

Another possibility is that one of the fingers on the fork failed and is not engaged with the throwout bearing evenly. That will cause more free play and bind when pushing the pedal in. Looking at the fork from the clutch rod end straight into the bellhousing, try twisting the fork clockwise and back, it should only turn a little, just enough to feel the fingers touch the throw out bearing.

Brian, what is it that doesn't "feel right" about the clutch now ?
The clutch has way too much free throw with it being very "soft" or weak, I could push the clutch pedal in with my pinky finger. It moves about two or three inches before it does anything.

Brian
Yesterday 08:36 AM
idrivejunk
Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
I am thinking this is what it is, the problem, getting to it! Dropping this tranny is not easy on this car. I wish I could get out there but I am still sick in my house (missed work today) and the car is out side on jack stands in the rain. So it's going to be a little longer before I find out.

Brian
Hope you get to feeling better, this week has been rough for me too. I can't believe you didn't take the belt from your trousers and fab new linkage from scratch already but it is kinda sounding like the retainer at the throwout bearing end of the fork may have snafu'ed on ya. If I were you, I'd mentally prepare to endure the pain of trans removal. At least you can do it laying down.
Yesterday 08:30 AM
idrivejunk
Quote:
Originally Posted by cozwurth View Post
I mocked up a couple of different Camaro wheels on the front of the truck this evening. The first is a 17 x 9 from a Camaro SS, the second wheel is a 16 x 8 Camaro RS wheel, and a pic trying to show where the outside of the stock wheel/tire is in relation to the fender. Both clear the control arms, etc. even at full lock in both directions, but the 16 x 8 is closer to the end of the upper arm. I made up a plywood and lag stud rig to go between the wheel and the rotor hub. Unfortunately it is 2 1/4" thick (3 layers of 3/4 thick) to gain clearance for the upper control arm. Any less and the 16 x 8 gets uncomfortably close to the upper control arm. The 16 x 8's are mine, and the 17 x 9's are available for purchase, just not sure which way I want to go. Not overly thrilled with adapter/spacers, but I know several people who run them without issue. Thoughts?


Dave


I don't see a good choice there, fit-wise. I would be concerned that GM made those wheels to hold up vehicles that are much lighter.
Yesterday 06:25 AM
496CHEVY3100 Blowed a wheel cyl on rear of my truck,yesterday so I just replaced both sides and rear shoes and front pads,,since I will be using it to pull my car trailor until l buy something else..
today will be installing new electric brake controler and 7 pin plug,
the one I have on it only has 5 pins.
Yesterday 05:54 AM
Too Many Projects If the clip holding the fork to the ball was broken from fatigue before the rod fell off, the fork could drop off the pivot ball. It should be fairly easy to determine that by trying to push/pull the fork straight in and out from the bellhousing. If the clip is intact and holding the fork on the ball, there will be very little movement in that direction.

Another possibility is that one of the fingers on the fork failed and is not engaged with the throwout bearing evenly. That will cause more free play and bind when pushing the pedal in. Looking at the fork from the clutch rod end straight into the bellhousing, try twisting the fork clockwise and back, it should only turn a little, just enough to feel the fingers touch the throw out bearing.

Brian, what is it that doesn't "feel right" about the clutch now ?
03-24-2017 07:43 PM
cozwurth
Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
I am thinking this is what it is, the problem, getting to it! Dropping this tranny is not easy on this car. I wish I could get out there but I am still sick in my house (missed work today) and the car is out side on jack stands in the rain. So it's going to be a little longer before I find out.

Brian
Hope you feel better soon. I was out most of this week myself. Hopefully you will be able to fish the fork around and get the clip engaged again without pulling the tranny. If it came off, it SHOULD be able to go back on.

David
03-24-2017 06:02 PM
MARTINSR
Quote:
Originally Posted by cozwurth View Post
Brian,
Does your fork have some sort of a spring clip on it to hold it to the pivot ball in the bellhousing? If so, then it could have slipped off when the linkage came apart.

Dave
I am thinking this is what it is, the problem, getting to it! Dropping this tranny is not easy on this car. I wish I could get out there but I am still sick in my house (missed work today) and the car is out side on jack stands in the rain. So it's going to be a little longer before I find out.

Brian
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