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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-08-2012 06:47 PM
400smb_s10 Thanks alot for the links and the help its muchly appreciated thats for sure. If i didnt have all the guys on here that have helped me in the last 5 or so years I wouldnt know what I know today about what I know. Any kind of help is appreciated I know sometimes people on here can ask the most basic questions about the most simpilest things but there is always someone that can answer it wether its complicated or easy as changing a spark plug.

So thanks to everyone for all the help like I said it is appreciated


Ed
03-08-2012 05:32 PM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by 400smb_s10
Sorry dont mean to pus hthe envelope but I would like to know what kinda of break in would be good for the cam I am ready to drop the motor in and i dont want to screw up the cam any help will be appreciated
A complete guide to cam break in procedures and info is HERE. I realize that giving you links is sort of an impersonal way of answering your questions- but a lot more time and effort went into the links than I could give you in a thread post, so look at it as a more in-depth answer instead of an impersonal one.

Good luck.
03-08-2012 04:08 PM
BigEd36 F-BIRD'88, do you use the Molyslip E instead of the GM EOS or ZDDP additive, or in addtion to the EOS/ZDDP additive?
03-08-2012 11:00 AM
F-BIRD'88 You want to use a Moly disulfide paste on the cam lobes.
(Isky rev lube or same)
You want to use a motor oil high in ZInc and Moly....or...
A bottle if GM EOS is nice.

I use this stuff in my oil for the cam break in,
www.molyslip.com Molyslip E Oil suplement.
They also sell the moly paste.
It works. Do not dump the oil after the break in.
Leave it in, with the Molyslip E additive so it can work.
You can change the oil filter if you want ...

Keep the engine rpm up above 2000 rpm for the first 1/2 hour.
Do not allow the engine to idle slow for the first 1/2 hour.

Set the engine idle speed to 1000-1200 rpm for the first 1000 miles of street driving. Until the motor is completely broken in.
Then reset the idle speed to around 700-750rpm.
03-08-2012 09:32 AM
400smb_s10 Sorry dont mean to pus hthe envelope but I would like to know what kinda of break in would be good for the cam I am ready to drop the motor in and i dont want to screw up the cam any help will be appreciated
03-07-2012 09:40 PM
400smb_s10 OK so I got the heads ported and polished cam is in and the double roller timing set is installed. 4 bbl intake and Qjet card is installed (was a 2 bbl) New high volt distributor is installed (was the old points style) Now I got 2 questions.

#1) What kind of breakin should be applied for the cam and which oil should I use for break in.

#2) Should I gain a suggnificant amount of horses changing from 2 bbl to 4 bbl and changing out the distirbutor from points to HEI, and from the ram horn manifolds to 1 3/4" shorty headers?
03-03-2012 12:04 PM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by 400smb_s10
The vortec heads what year of motor do they come off of?
Some Vortec info, don't forget to click on the links:

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w..._cylinder_head
03-03-2012 08:39 AM
techinspector1
Quote:
Originally Posted by 400smb_s10
The vortec heads what year of motor do they come off of?
1996-2002 Chevrolet Express/GMC Savana full-size vans
1996-1999 Chevrolet/GMC C/K full-size trucks
1996-1999 Chevrolet Suburban/GMC Suburban full-size long-wheelbase SUVs
1996-1999 Chevrolet Tahoe/GMC Yukon full-size short-wheelbase SUVs
1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
The motor should have 5700 Vortec badging and was built under Regular Production Order L31.
F-BIRD'88 made a good point the other day, that the heads found in boneyards are more likely to be cracked than a new set of heads from Summit or another source. That's why the motor is in a boneyard in the first place.
Here's a good price from Pace Performance on a bone-stock head....
http://paceperformance.com/i-6255341...-complete.html
There are many other sources, including Scoggin-Dickey Chevrolet....
http://sdparts.com/details/gm-perfor...parts/12558060
http://sdparts.com/category/sdpc-vor...-and-head-kits
03-02-2012 07:37 PM
400smb_s10 Ok thanks everyone for all opinions they are very much so appreciated. Its been a well needed learning curve talking with everyone about this so im thankful for that to.

One more question. The vortec heads what year of motor do they come off of? Oh and the stock heads I have are getting ported as we speak so hopfully they will be a little better then stock.

Thanks again for all the help

Ed
03-02-2012 05:21 PM
F-BIRD'88 From your confused response re; 1.6 rockers, just use the 1.5 rockers. They are just fine.
If you want it to really scream get some L-31 vortec heads and a vortec style 4 bbl intake manifold for your 400.
Big big difference in "truck power and torque" from stock 400 SBC heads.
the stock 400 heads are lame. Now the cam can work.

Don't forget to hang on
03-02-2012 04:12 PM
techinspector1
Quote:
Originally Posted by 400smb_s10
Ok so I should swap out all the springs to 1.6? or just the intake and intake rockers?

I also ment to mention that the exhaust is 1 3/4" shorty headers into 3' exhaust no cats and glass packs

I want this engine to work well for me. maybe take it to the track on a saturday night but I mostly want it to have a little more ummph then stock. I would like it to be a nice cruizer motor but when i want to get up and scram I will be able to do so.
On most of the Dynosims I have run, the motor will pick up only single digit gains (less than 10 hp) with higher ratio rockers. Plus, there is more strain on the whole valvetrain with them. If you were racing in some competitive venue and needed to gain a headlight rim on your competitors, and had exhausted every other avenue of gaining a few hp, I might tend to recommend higher ratio rockers. But if this is in any way a street driver, leave the rocker ratio alone. That's my best advice.

Shorty headers will work better than stock cast iron manifolds, but will be short on power when compared to long-tube, tuned headers.

With 9.00:1 SCR, this motor will not be a world beater. It will make good power with a stock converter, but if you want to "get up and scram", you're building the wrong motor.
03-02-2012 02:34 PM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by 400smb_s10
Duration @ .050" 214 int 214 Exh

SAE duration 287 287

Lobe spread 105 115

lash Hydraulic

Valve Lift ".444 ".444

Cam Lift ".296 ".296

The maker of the cam is MAHLE GROUP and the part number is 229-1987

Hope this give you all the info needed

Thanks for all the input so far
Considering this was a cam hat was chosen because the "right" cam wasn't available (not usually the way you'd like to go about picking a cam, as I'm sure you would agree), it isn't a bad choice. The lobes are gentle (lot of advertised duration to the amount of lift) so it will be easy on the valve train components, but it will give away some lift "under the curve" that is offered by the fast lobe cams like the Comp XE-series and the Lunati Voodoo series cams. But given the sad state of affairs regarding the current "over the counter" motor oil additive packages, having a less aggressive lobe isn't necessarily a bad thing.

TI has run the DCR for you and deemed it to be OK, so all that is left is to get it installed and broken in. THIS Wiki page has a few articles that could be of some use to you, like:

Adjust valves
Camshaft install tips and tricks
Valve train points to check

Good luck.
03-02-2012 02:04 PM
400smb_s10 Ok so I should swap out all the springs to 1.6? or just the intake and intake rockers?

I also ment to mention that the exhaust is 1 3/4" shorty headers into 3' exhaust no cats and glass packs

I want this engine to work well for me. maybe take it to the track on a saturday night but I mostly want it to have a little more ummph then stock. I would like it to be a nice cruizer motor but when i want to get up and scram I will be able to do so.
03-02-2012 01:51 PM
F-BIRD'88 That cam will work very well for your purpose. It will make more power than stock , expecially with headers and improved exhaust.

re 1.6 ratio rockers on a SBC.
The 1.6 rockers go on the intake side if you want a bit more power from high ratio rockers. ( you gain a small amount of top end power with the increased intake lift, especially if the cam is mild, especially if the heads have been ported. The exhaust side on a SBC head responds more to a duration change.
Often adding extra exhaust valve lift w a rocker ratio swap , shows no gain or reduces power.

keep the 1.5s on the ex side
03-02-2012 12:19 PM
techinspector1 If your static compression ratio is truly 9.00:1, then the dynamic compression ratio with this cam will be 8.09:1. (intake valve closes at 32 degrees ABDC).When I read your first post, I thought the motor would be a typical low compression boat anchor (around 8:1).

That cam will work fine on pump gas and yield decent power. If you want more low end, use a cam that's a little bit smaller, to raise the DCR some. Maybe a cam with 5-7 degrees less at 0.050".

Are you paying attention to the squish?
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