|03-08-2012 07:47 PM|
Thanks alot for the links and the help its muchly appreciated thats for sure. If i didnt have all the guys on here that have helped me in the last 5 or so years I wouldnt know what I know today about what I know. Any kind of help is appreciated I know sometimes people on here can ask the most basic questions about the most simpilest things but there is always someone that can answer it wether its complicated or easy as changing a spark plug.
So thanks to everyone for all the help like I said it is appreciated
|03-08-2012 06:32 PM|
|03-08-2012 05:08 PM|
|BigEd36||F-BIRD'88, do you use the Molyslip E instead of the GM EOS or ZDDP additive, or in addtion to the EOS/ZDDP additive?|
|03-08-2012 12:00 PM|
You want to use a Moly disulfide paste on the cam lobes.
(Isky rev lube or same)
You want to use a motor oil high in ZInc and Moly....or...
A bottle if GM EOS is nice.
I use this stuff in my oil for the cam break in,
www.molyslip.com Molyslip E Oil suplement.
They also sell the moly paste.
It works. Do not dump the oil after the break in.
Leave it in, with the Molyslip E additive so it can work.
You can change the oil filter if you want ...
Keep the engine rpm up above 2000 rpm for the first 1/2 hour.
Do not allow the engine to idle slow for the first 1/2 hour.
Set the engine idle speed to 1000-1200 rpm for the first 1000 miles of street driving. Until the motor is completely broken in.
Then reset the idle speed to around 700-750rpm.
|03-08-2012 10:32 AM|
|400smb_s10||Sorry dont mean to pus hthe envelope but I would like to know what kinda of break in would be good for the cam I am ready to drop the motor in and i dont want to screw up the cam any help will be appreciated|
|03-07-2012 10:40 PM|
OK so I got the heads ported and polished cam is in and the double roller timing set is installed. 4 bbl intake and Qjet card is installed (was a 2 bbl) New high volt distributor is installed (was the old points style) Now I got 2 questions.
#1) What kind of breakin should be applied for the cam and which oil should I use for break in.
#2) Should I gain a suggnificant amount of horses changing from 2 bbl to 4 bbl and changing out the distirbutor from points to HEI, and from the ram horn manifolds to 1 3/4" shorty headers?
|03-03-2012 01:04 PM|
|03-03-2012 09:39 AM|
1996-1999 Chevrolet/GMC C/K full-size trucks
1996-1999 Chevrolet Suburban/GMC Suburban full-size long-wheelbase SUVs
1996-1999 Chevrolet Tahoe/GMC Yukon full-size short-wheelbase SUVs
1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
The motor should have 5700 Vortec badging and was built under Regular Production Order L31.
F-BIRD'88 made a good point the other day, that the heads found in boneyards are more likely to be cracked than a new set of heads from Summit or another source. That's why the motor is in a boneyard in the first place.
Here's a good price from Pace Performance on a bone-stock head....
There are many other sources, including Scoggin-Dickey Chevrolet....
|03-02-2012 08:37 PM|
Ok thanks everyone for all opinions they are very much so appreciated. Its been a well needed learning curve talking with everyone about this so im thankful for that to.
One more question. The vortec heads what year of motor do they come off of? Oh and the stock heads I have are getting ported as we speak so hopfully they will be a little better then stock.
Thanks again for all the help
|03-02-2012 06:21 PM|
From your confused response re; 1.6 rockers, just use the 1.5 rockers. They are just fine.
If you want it to really scream get some L-31 vortec heads and a vortec style 4 bbl intake manifold for your 400.
Big big difference in "truck power and torque" from stock 400 SBC heads.
the stock 400 heads are lame. Now the cam can work.
Don't forget to hang on
|03-02-2012 05:12 PM|
Shorty headers will work better than stock cast iron manifolds, but will be short on power when compared to long-tube, tuned headers.
With 9.00:1 SCR, this motor will not be a world beater. It will make good power with a stock converter, but if you want to "get up and scram", you're building the wrong motor.
|03-02-2012 03:34 PM|
TI has run the DCR for you and deemed it to be OK, so all that is left is to get it installed and broken in. THIS Wiki page has a few articles that could be of some use to you, like:
• Adjust valves
• Camshaft install tips and tricks
• Valve train points to check
|03-02-2012 03:04 PM|
Ok so I should swap out all the springs to 1.6? or just the intake and intake rockers?
I also ment to mention that the exhaust is 1 3/4" shorty headers into 3' exhaust no cats and glass packs
I want this engine to work well for me. maybe take it to the track on a saturday night but I mostly want it to have a little more ummph then stock. I would like it to be a nice cruizer motor but when i want to get up and scram I will be able to do so.
|03-02-2012 02:51 PM|
That cam will work very well for your purpose. It will make more power than stock , expecially with headers and improved exhaust.
re 1.6 ratio rockers on a SBC.
The 1.6 rockers go on the intake side if you want a bit more power from high ratio rockers. ( you gain a small amount of top end power with the increased intake lift, especially if the cam is mild, especially if the heads have been ported. The exhaust side on a SBC head responds more to a duration change.
Often adding extra exhaust valve lift w a rocker ratio swap , shows no gain or reduces power.
keep the 1.5s on the ex side
|03-02-2012 01:19 PM|
If your static compression ratio is truly 9.00:1, then the dynamic compression ratio with this cam will be 8.09:1. (intake valve closes at 32 degrees ABDC).When I read your first post, I thought the motor would be a typical low compression boat anchor (around 8:1).
That cam will work fine on pump gas and yield decent power. If you want more low end, use a cam that's a little bit smaller, to raise the DCR some. Maybe a cam with 5-7 degrees less at 0.050".
Are you paying attention to the squish?
|This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|