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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-12-2012 06:57 PM
64 fairlane 500 thanks guys i just ordered that comp cam and lifters, matching valve springs and some roller rockers. i also got there pushrods. thanks to everybody
03-12-2012 03:37 PM
painted jester [QUOTE=cobalt327]Not suitable for street duty in a car, it has a granny low, it's a HD truck tranny.

As for the heads, etc. I'd advise you to get an adjustable valve train on it. To try to juggle p-rod length to get the right lifter preload is not a first-timer's deal, IMO. Not saying it can't be done- I AM saying that it's not easy to get right, it IS easy to get wrong- and if you get it wrong enough, the valves and pistons can hit and p-rods get bent, or the valves get held off the seats and get burnt and/or the engine runs like crap.





Louis: Cobalt is telling you right on, and If you run anti pump up lifters and set them with the adjustable rockers at .001" or .002" you wont have to worry about lifter pre load The only thing I can add is when installed, where the rocker adjuster and push rod meet there should only be 2 or 3 threads of the adjuster showing under the rocker, if there are more your push rods need to be longer!! You can use lash caps to take up minor changes like .040, .060, .080 etc!!! I just did a ford 427 tunnel port and I needed about 1/4 inch longer push rods on the intakes and about 1/8 longer on the exhausts to get the adjustable rockers in the right geometry! So get a couple of adjustable push rods to get your geometry right and then measure them to get your right length! Make sure you check all 16 push rod lengths (at every rocker) with these adjustable push rods measuring each and then getting an average of the lengths you measured and that's the length you need! You pm'ed me your in high school and on a real tight budget? I also see by your pms that you really want to learn ) And from what I read your looking at a used cam and valve train? Am I right? If I am Be careful buying used, check all valve spring pressures, mike the wear on the cam (each lobe) and the bearing surfaces, check every roller rocker for any flaws, check every push rod for straightness ( if they can even be used, you must put each part back on the way it came off the other engine, If you put a used lifter on a different lobe then its been broke in on it will do damage (9 out of 10 times) You should also order new rocker arm shafts and eliminate any flaws or wear your old shafts may have from years of use.

Like Cobalt says that trans has to go, call some trucking outfits or trans shops maybe one will buy it for a good price or even trade for a trans you can use if you chip in some cash. What city & state are you in? One of us might live right around the corner from you , you never know!

You picked "one of the hardest" engines there is to learn with by your self Even with a stack of books its very very hard without a hands on instructor (that's very knowledgeable on ford side oilers!!!) There are so many things books and the internet take for granted a person already knows that isn't covered at all But if you learn it right and don't take short cuts you'll be leaps ahead of most mechanics, and will have something you can be proud of and remember when your old and on a site like this helping some other guy!!

On your budget don't worry about High priced aluminum heads, you can get em later. and on the ford particularly if your deck or heads have been milled any time in the past you have to mill the bottom of the intake and sometimes the port faces<and make sure if your mocking up the engine for measuring your push rods that you use the head gasket thickness you'll use when the engine is assembled! If you had a valve job done make sure all your valve stem tip heights are the same (Put a long straight edge across all the stem tips on each head and look and see if any are short ( on the side oilers this is very important) look between the stem tips and straight edge even take a picture and post it and post on this thread what you see if you cant post the pics (I for one am very interested)



The side oilers rip bell housings apart so dont run that old truck housing!! or an aluminum!!! Ford made a (bullet proof ) nodular housing but their very rare (like the nodular 9 inch rear ). See if you can get a good used lakewood or equivalent!! Im guessing the 352 you started with is a heavy (lugger) truck engine?

Even with adjustable rockers you have to set valve lash on side oilers with conventional hydraulic lifters collapsed!!! there is no such thing as any 3/4 turn or 1/2 turn ETC, ETC from zero !!!! The only way you can get around this is to run ".000 lash anti pump up lifters" set em at .001" or .002 hot & running or you could change your mind and run a solid cam and put down some real power (But you still have to worry about push rod length) LOL and Firebird suggested a very good cam for your build with probably very little valve train work if any!!

I pit crewed & ran G.M., I also pit crewed & ran Fords & Chrysler's I even ran ford & chryslers engines in chevys, at the strips LOL ! And their great powerful engines!! Im Into Chevy engines for myself now, But still do engine work on the old Fords & Chryslers! Im really surprised at work done By the new breed of mechanics now that really shouldn't even put their hands on these old engines. In michigan we have a Pre 1972 certification!! I dont know if other states do!

Jester
03-11-2012 10:09 AM
64 fairlane 500 thanks f-bird when i looked at the reviews they said it was a show camthanks for everthing! louis
03-11-2012 06:00 AM
F-BIRD'88
Quote:
Originally Posted by 64 fairlane 500
hey guys i was looking on comp when i came across the thumpr cam. do you guys think they gain power or are they just show cams? oh it is a ford fe.

thanks
Yes people buy these cams for the sound. I selected this cam specificly for your 390 4 speed fairlane to go fast. No for the sound.
If you follow specifically what I layed out for you, you will go fast,
This is a powerfull moderate street strip cam with modest valve lift just right for your stock FE valve train and purpose.
Get the double pumper carb and the collector extensions.

Ya it will have a cool sound at idle too. No extra charge.

33-600-5 is the comp part number
call comp cams .
03-11-2012 01:47 AM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by 64 fairlane 500
hey 68 nova its the bottom one the t-18.
Not suitable for street duty in a car, it has a granny low, it's a HD truck tranny.

As for the heads, etc. I'd advise you to get an adjustable valve train on it. To try to juggle p-rod length to get the right lifter preload is not a first-timer's deal, IMO. Not saying it can't be done- I AM saying that it's not easy to get right, it IS easy to get wrong- and if you get it wrong enough, the valves and pistons can hit and p-rods get bent, or the valves get held off the seats and get burnt and/or the engine runs like crap.

Go w/something like (you seem to like Comp):


COMP ADJUSTABLE ROCKERS

And bolt them on a set of (budget permitting) Edelbrock Ford FE RPM aluminum heads. The heads are similar to the medium riser 427 heads. And whatever else you do or don't do- lose the stock cast iron boat anchor (80 pounds or so) intake manifold and put headers on it.
03-10-2012 09:14 PM
64 fairlane 500
hey

hey 68 nova its the bottom one the t-18.
03-10-2012 08:26 PM
painted jester 500]ok here is the specs for the lunati cam advertised duration 300/300, valve lift .514/.514[/QUOTE]


Heres all the specs on the cam your looking at Louis: call Lunati and check it out before you make the deal! See exactly what changes in valve train geometry you may need to do if any!! If its a used cam and components (push rods, springs,Etc. and was set up for a different F.E. they may be quite different then what your F.E. valve train specs are!!! Especially if it was run in a 427 ,medium rise or high rise, or 428 Your push rods would be completely different in length !!! The way to do it is when you buy the cam and lifters and necessary springs and retainers set at proper height and its assembled With the valve completely closed on the heal of the cam lob and the lifter completely collapsed you measure the gap between the valve stem tip and the rocker arm and pick a length push rod that will give you a lash measurement of between .100" and .200" if you run an anti pump up lifter or a roads type you decrease the gap accordingly! I said there are no short cuts

You could swap the same cam into 3 different 390s and have different length push rods in each engine. Or different thickness lash caps!
The reason for this is the different decks or if the valve stems have been dressed, Different stem heights because of machining (valves set deeper in the seat), weather the heads have been milled, different head gasket thickness Etc, Etc. You could even have different length push rods from cylinder to cylinder But that's usually done with lash caps!! The ford F.E is not a cookie cutter chevy it has to be precise its not forgiving! You must keep the rockers on the shaft in their proper geometry to the push rod and the valve stem tip even if you get adjustable rockers you have to keep this geometry ( its the same with all rocker shaft engines !! I dont think it can be explained much better then I just tried!

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2258&gid=245

Jester
03-10-2012 07:46 PM
68NovaSS
Quote:
Originally Posted by 64 fairlane 500
ya its a car i got the tranny with the engine. i think its a borg and warner t-18 but i am not for sure.
Is it a top loader trans? Here's a T-10 and a top loader T-18.
03-10-2012 06:59 PM
64 fairlane 500
cam specs

ok here is the specs for the lunati cam advertised duration 300/300, valve lift .514/.514
03-10-2012 01:43 PM
painted jester Stay away from that summit carb !!! The carb build firebird suggested is a very easy build and will flow very well and should be well in your budget rather then spending big money for a comparable carb new and then modifying it to fit your build !

The old 406 and 390 interceptor (Police cars) ran lifts of around .480 .490 hydraulic to as high as .524 solid (actual lift .498 at the valves minus the lash) in the 427s!! So you should stay with a cam at or a little bellow .500 lift and as firebird said call crain or comp or isky or racer brown and they will set you up with a cam grind where you wont need to radically alter your valve geometry! I would have thought you would have already called & posted what they said its a tole free #! And over the years they've probably already done the exact grind you need and have all the specs or could tell you a grind they already have setting right on the shelf gathering dust!!! If you don't see it in a catalog it doesn't mean they don't have it! If you get a thumper 500 or more lift you'll be putting big money in your valve train and not get the performance for the money!

If thats a t-18 trans sell it and look for a T-10 or super t-10. That T-18 may have a creeper gear for a dump truck I dont know your age but Im guessing your young and need a lot of help. Oh The F.E stands for ford engine I myself call them side oilers LOL

Jester
03-10-2012 09:16 AM
68NovaSS Your camshaft threads have been merged together. Stop posting threads of the same subjects, read the guidelines.
03-10-2012 08:31 AM
64 fairlane 500
thumpr cam

hey guys i was looking on comp when i came across the thumpr cam. do you guys think they gain power or are they just show cams? oh it is a ford fe.

thanks
03-10-2012 08:02 AM
64 fairlane 500 ya its a car i got the tranny with the engine. i think its a borg and warner t-18 but i am not for sure.
03-09-2012 07:52 PM
painted jester
Quote:
Originally Posted by 64 fairlane 500
oh maybe i should have said thats my tranny



T- 18s a heavy duty truck trans are you building a 3/4 or 1 ton truck or did you mean T-10 I thought you were building a car?

Chris
03-09-2012 07:43 PM
64 fairlane 500 oh maybe i should have said thats my tranny
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