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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-26-2012 07:53 PM
slodat Dave, that dash pad came out of a parts truck that was purchased for the good dash pad. It needs to be removed and hit with some SEM dye to renew the color. They are exceptionally hard to find in good shape. When you find a good one it makes the whole interior look so much better. I have yet to see another option that looks as good as the stock dash pad in good shape. This is my shop truck.
03-26-2012 12:53 PM
dtracy Carpets look good to me, is that the original dash or did you replace it, and if so where did you find one? I have a PL620 standard cab that needs a dash.

Dave.
03-22-2012 07:40 PM
slodat I tried melting the edge. I didn't like the way it looked, so I used matching color vinyl for binding.
03-22-2012 03:10 PM
DanTwoLakes If you look at the 6th post in this thread, he was already given that advice. It only works on synthetic carpet, it won't do a thing to any natural fiber.
03-22-2012 11:17 AM
zzford My son does custom stereo installations and he taught me a neat trick to keep the carpet from unraveling. Lightly pass a flame along the cut edge. The flame melts the thread and it won't unravel. Kinda like you do with polyethylene rope.
03-18-2012 09:32 AM
matts37chev that looks pretty good to me, nice work
03-18-2012 05:45 AM
slodat Late night in the shop. I'm happy with the results. Learned a few lessons along the way. Matching floor mats to follow tomorrow.



03-18-2012 03:14 AM
slodat I have been rolling the edges over and gluing them down. This works great when the line is straight and doesn't cross one of the rows of pile in the carpet. When it crosses rows, it looks like crap.

Exhibit A:


So, I bound that edge. I didn't want binding on all edges. Not the look I was going for. I think the one strip of binding on each side will look alright. I hope.

Exhibit B:


The rear section is almost completely "invisible" when the seats are in place. And the seat support (black painted part) breaks the line. So...
03-17-2012 08:56 PM
slodat Thank you for the advice and pointers! I ended up adding a dart to fit the tunnel. When I glued it down it laid completely flat against the tunnel. Not a single wrinkle or goofy spot, which is all I am willing to settle for. Still in progress. I know what I'm doing from here forward. Or at least that's what I'm telling myself.

I rolled the edges and glued them down. I like the way it looks so far. Feels good to see this coming together.

In progress...



03-11-2012 06:58 PM
DanTwoLakes I would do this in three pieces. Cover the tunnel first, and then each side from front to back as a separate piece. If you don't want to bind the edges next to the tunnel, simply turn them under and sew them down, or if the carpet is nylon, you can heat the edges with a flame and melt the edges, assuming the carpet is black or at least dark.
03-11-2012 04:02 PM
slodat Dan, thanks for the info, it is helping! Aside from binding, what other methods are there to prevent unraveling? Specifically when I have the tunnel carpet glued in place, I will need to "butt" the edge of the floor sections up to it. This is why I have sewn this in the past. It takes forever to sew it all up AND get good fitment. The backing of the carpet doesn't hold up well to that.

A little more info about the current project, it is a '78 Datsun truck. I know this should be really simple. I want this to turn out well, so I am asking for some assistance.

The floor was covered with sound deadening (eDead) and then I put down a layer of padding. This is where I am now. A few photos.





03-11-2012 12:13 PM
DanTwoLakes
Quote:
Originally Posted by slodat
I keep finding myself tending toward fitting carpet like I make a seat cover. Several pieces sewn together to fit the curves, transmission tunnel and such. I feel like I **must** be missing something obvious. This is one area I never got to learn from my dad before he passed.

Current project in the shop is really kicking my ***. An idea of how those more experienced approach this might really help.

Thank you in advance!
You don't need to sew the parts together at all. The way to approach it is to do the trans tunnel first with whatever padding you are going to use and a separate piece of carpet. (Make sure you run the carpet all one way, or it can look a completely different color) After the tunnel is done, put your padding on the floor on each side of the tunnel and fit the carpet around the tunnel in a "U" shape in the middle. You can either bind the edges of the carpet that butts up to the tunnel, or just glue it down next to the tunnel. Most automotive carpet is split in two under the middle of the front seats. Then the rest of the carpet is installed from the middle of the front seats to underneath the rear seat.

Look at how this carpet is installed. If you don't like the binding on the edges, just don't use it, just do something to the edges of the carpet to keep it from unraveling. CARPET INSTALL
03-11-2012 09:12 AM
stich626 not really knowing so I might be talking out one side of my but..
but I'd think you could use the seam tapethey use when they lay carpet in huge rooms.. to get a tight fit
03-11-2012 08:57 AM
delawarebill
u didn't say what kinda car...???????

if it a custom tunnel, u'r own ur own on that one.. for my bucket i did the floor in 2 pc's. floor then tunnel and had the carpet store sew the edges..
03-11-2012 03:47 AM
slodat
Carpet installation.. any tips, pointers, etc?

I keep finding myself tending toward fitting carpet like I make a seat cover. Several pieces sewn together to fit the curves, transmission tunnel and such. I feel like I **must** be missing something obvious. This is one area I never got to learn from my dad before he passed.

Current project in the shop is really kicking my ***. An idea of how those more experienced approach this might really help.

Thank you in advance!

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