|Today 01:27 AM|
It looks like if I just do the cam..I can without pulling the engine. Stude has a long snout that unbolts...
|Today 01:01 AM|
Well..I have been gone from here for almost a year..a lot has gone on..
The Jaguar runs like a beast...and the Studebaker has until 5 months ago..
This is the first car I bought not built and did not at least assemble the engine.. I have always used ZDDP..Valvoline Racing oil..
After having the car for three years and 15,000+ miles..my wife went on her first longer ride to Goodguys in Scottsdale..naturally..it ran good..but I have been chasing a minor shake at just above idle..
I have driven the car decently..but often cruise desolate Arizona back roads at 90+..with the 700R..it is smooth and fast..
Then as we got to Phoenix..
Popping through carb at shaking whenever more than slight throttle
Figured it was a rounded cam lobe.. Worked on any other option in hotel parking lot.. So we left Saturday morning to limp home..
About 50 miles and it gets worse..then backfires and dies as I am trying to pull off but caught a red light..
Hard to start..but..what the hell !! Starts..runs smooth..no backfire..no miss ? Has good power.. Maybe I was wrong..Electrical ?? Bad gas ?
Wife says it was prayers..I think it ain't over yet..
Runs well the next 100 miles to home. In the morning I start and runs ok.. Didi the water on header..and seems I do have a dead cylinder.
Actually it was Intake and Exhaust on #4..seems odd two lobes next to each other.. I'll see better when I pull the manifold..
So..it sat..I was pretty ill for a bit..but getting stronger now..so new cam time. Looks like any metal was caught in K&N Filter..no pasty fine powder in oil..but I will no better when I look closer next week hopefully. Need to get this done before summer heat down here.. Mau do a complete rebuild..or just a real good flush. I use large magnets on all my cars oil pans..saved the Jaguar when I popped several lifters (GM Performance) being stupid..
Using 268H AGAIN..same as the one rounded..
My Jaguar (350) is flat tappet with about 23,000..always ZDDP..and broke in correctly..
Engine on Stude seems well built..but have no idea about oil used or break in. It was built about 8 years ago..
So..I am back in garage..
|Yesterday 09:29 PM|
well, thought i wasnt going to work on ANYTHING today, but as it turns out the oil change pit at the shop is flooded.
Our building USED to be an automotive repair shop, so it has a center floor drain and an oil change pit. I heard earlier that the floor drain pit was up to the grate, but when i got to the shop it was drained ....
sewer is plugged, sump pump died, water drained back from the floor drain into the pit and now the pit has 4 fet of water. I have 3 pumps running right now so i can go home asap.
My family does basement water proofing .... but our company shop has a flooded basement... frack ...
|Yesterday 12:33 PM|
Finally got my cross ram running well, and leaned out. Plugs are a nice tan color, and no eyes burning at idle! Dropped jet size down 8 sizes from #66 to #58, and power valves down from 6.5 to 3.5. I may go up a couple sizes on jets later if the plug color indicates it's a bit lean, but will give it some miles first.
Scored a new driver's side window regulator on CL yesterday! Seller said it has sat in his garage since the 70's when his son built a Falcon, so it's in great shape! Now I wont have to worry about the window dropping and shattering door glass!
|Yesterday 10:25 AM|
That truck is picture perfect.
|Yesterday 10:23 AM|
|Too Many Projects||
Just finished the one hour power clean for company coming over...
Hope everyone has a good Easter....
|Yesterday 08:03 AM|
See, I told you I was the student! Thanks Mitch
|Yesterday 07:57 AM|
|Too Many Projects||
That way leaves the chassis on the floor, able to roll around. That should be a good way to get the body on a roto and roll the chassis out from under.
Only mod I would make, is a nut welded on the bottom of the all thread to facilitate use of an impact or ratchet to turn the rod.
|Yesterday 07:35 AM|
I am the student here. Just sharing what I am learning and have learned. The big differance between me and you pro's is I can take all day to do a 30 minute job. Time does not equate to money for me.
Example: Several people asked me why I didn't jack up the car, suspend the body and just let the chassis down instead of spending all that time raising the body with four pieces of all-thread.
Short answer.......I didn't want to.....and .....my time is free. Slow and easy was the way I thought it would be the most fun.
Knowing you guys who do restoration work for a living even take a second look at my project is priceless to me. Just too cool.
|Yesterday 06:24 AM|
|Too Many Projects||
|Yesterday 05:41 AM|
Man, does that trunk pan look nice in there. Really moves the project forward.
|Yesterday 04:43 AM|
|04-19-2014 10:23 PM|
Did a very slight mod to my rear suspension today. It always bugged me that my rear suspension was hung with bolts using the threads as load bearing points. I swear I could feel stuff moving around back there, almost like the rear end was skating around a bit. The rear end would also clunk most times when I shifted unless I was super gentle. Here's how the original bolts fit through the brackets....
I got some longer grade 8 bolts and cut off the excess threads, now they fit like this...
No more clunking and the car feels quite a bit more stable. Such a simple thing! After that, I replaced my 50 year old strut rod bushings. Actually was surprised at how easy that job was. Start by unbolting the strut rod instead of taking three other things apart first to get at it, lol.
Also redid my brakes again! I put in a 15/16 master cylinder instead of the 1" one I put in a few weeks ago. I also realized after I had done the 1" MC that I still had my original rubber line at the rear end so I replaced that and the two front lines (Why not?) with some nice new stainless braided and plastic sheathed hoses. Much better pedal pressure now, I think this MC is a keeper. Unfortunately have one leaky fitting. Must not have got that flare quite right, will have to cut the flare off and redo it. Pretty sure the line is long enough I can get away with that. Just hate cracking that stuff open again, such a mess.
|04-19-2014 09:38 PM|
cut of the transverse brace, the seat lock, and both sides of the shock mount.
Checked the angle of the original frame (5* at its current spot)
Reset my gauge for 13* total
cut the frame, bent them up, and threw a tack weld on.
Double checked they are parrallel
Cut off the rear section of the hoop
Started plotting how i want to trim the wheel well
|04-19-2014 04:58 PM|
One of my friends and I slid the trunk floor in today. I also bolted on the EMS rear splash apron. It will give me a great template for making the tail pan under the deck lid. We worked hard today
Thanks again to any and all who helped make this day happen. I am indeed a blessed man to have the friends I have in this world.
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