|Yesterday 09:13 PM|
would try an abrasive cleaner such as you would use in the kitchen.
No idea on US names but we have Jib and Ajax, to name 2 that are a white thick paste and they do a good job of getting into the scratches.
I would start with a sponge to apply it and if that wasn't doing the trick I would try a scouring pad with the paste.
Are new ones available?
|Yesterday 07:37 PM|
and time to take car of an easy one
any body have a good cleaning method for this original bottle?
sand , clean, sand , clean....prime and then paint
|05-22-2016 09:18 AM|
and done, after thinking about it way too much i just drilled the hole. theres no reason not to take the carbs off if you wanted to.
i used an air vacuum ( for AC systems, do not use a shop vac around gas fumes) to clean out the carb infront of the butter fly
chucked up the bubble flair and did some file work on the profile
just waiting for the rebuilt distributor to hook up the vacum line completely
|05-21-2016 04:30 PM|
back to the carb ported vacuum opening
this is my best choice so far
|05-21-2016 10:07 AM|
i hear you..... the cork is original and thats what was there before and those areas weren't rusted, so its hard to come up with a good argument for changing it other then it just doesn't seem right.
worked on the heater tube today and the firing order tag.
|05-21-2016 05:43 AM|
|Arns85GT||By using cork on the frame/body seams, aren't you a little concerned about retaining moisture in the seams which can lead to rust? I am interested to know why you didn't use closed cell rubber.|
|05-20-2016 08:27 PM|
made some progress tonight unclogging my vacuum port on my HS4
i was able to open up the port, this was .030 mig wire
got the hole open
turns out to be about .060
it must have been debris sucked into it i didnt really have to remove any metal to open it up. now what do i put in there to mate up to this
any and all ideas appreciated, what have others done who are using HS4s
|05-16-2016 03:08 PM|
|05-16-2016 12:15 PM|
|Loose Ctrl||Is there sealed ducting for the heater box?Surely it doesn't suck air from under the hood where exhaust fumes could be.I can't remember how my uncles cars were plumbed for the heater box.|
|05-15-2016 04:36 PM|
worked on those triangular pieces and putting down cork for the frame to body spots
some black goop for an air tight seal
this spot has to be below the goal post top
i used rivets to make it nice and tight
seems like a gasket is a good idea here
and lastly put in the fuel sender unit
|05-14-2016 10:10 AM|
more electrical work...
connecting tool in action
adding a ring and additional ground circuit to the ground to go to a body bolt on drivers side
test all circuits to make sure everything works
|05-13-2016 08:50 PM|
|Loose Ctrl||The electrical is coming together real nice.One of the good things about older cars,they're simple.|
|05-13-2016 02:45 PM|
today do more on the wiring harness, install the wiper motor, hook up some wires, add vin tag and tags to heater....about 4 hrs of work.
added a rubber gasket fron a tire tube to the wiper motor post and used a leather punch to make the hole
installing these wiper motors is a PITA...
hook up wires and made this long so its easier to replace, my flasher unit doidnt pass testing so i need to buy a new one
|05-12-2016 08:43 PM|
worked a little more on the harness....all the grommets are in place except for the water capillary , it s looking pretty good up close and in person....
|05-12-2016 02:28 PM|
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