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Topic Review (Newest First)
Yesterday 08:40 PM
MARTINSR Below is the only flame job I have ever done for money. It's so funny that I have drawn flames on zillions of things, it's the only thing I can draw. But this is the only time I ever painted them. I took this photo in 2000 where this truck is parked still today and has been since I painted it in 1977! NO KIDDING!

Brian
Yesterday 03:25 PM
496CHEVY3100 The flames are one thing I have not been able to do to my taste ,i have taped several ,mostly motorcycles for myself ,but wont do them for a customer ,
Yesterday 01:44 PM
MARTINSR I flamed this fender with my new style called "dust freehand".


Brian
Yesterday 09:37 AM
496CHEVY3100 Or you could do like Donald Trump ,just roll down the windows
Yesterday 03:39 AM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by boothboy View Post
Yes I was talking about your a/c clutch. What I was trying to explain is that upon occasion the gap between the shoe (the plate at the very front of the compressor) gets opened up enough that the magnetic coil isn't strong enough to the shoe into the rotor (pully). By tapping it with screwdriver while the engine is running and the a/c is on it will engage. What usually causes this is excessive wear between the shoe and rotor. The wear usually comes from a leaking front seal and the surfaces get oily causing the shoe to momentarily slip before making good contact with the face of the rotor. Depending on the type of compressor sometime the shoe is spaced with shims. Remove a shim and the shoe moves closer.Then the magnet is strong enough to make the whole darn thing work. It's a temporary fix at best. BUT it doesn't cost anything. ..............

BB
Very good information. Thanks for taking the time to post BB.

John
04-15-2015 11:12 PM
tech69 today went swell. Trying a new way of buffing for driver restorations. I'm doing everything with DA and the paint is hard so I'm starting with 1200 and finishing with 2000. Since I put 1200/1500 DA on the car I first hit it with wool then foam. It's coming out better than expected. A pile of crap 39 Ford but it's gonna look clean even though we didn't do any body work and it's a little wavy. It's gonna look good.

Got my tube roller set up and bolted down with my new swag dies and it's ready to rock! This weekend is my son's baptism and art beast for my daughter but I'll squeeze in some TIg welding and can't wait to try out the notcher after modding it. Should be starting the frame soon...real soon.

Oh, and my wife got a big $3k raise and is on salary...her new check is only $8 more, plus she's expected to work overtime with no overtime pay...Eff The Gooberment!
04-15-2015 10:52 PM
MARTINSR
Quote:
Originally Posted by boothboy View Post
Where did you find it?

BB
One of the few AMC places on line. I wanted to get it from the guy who is just a few miles from me out on the valley, but they didn't have any, He said they are so difficult he wouldn't sell them used anyway, I would have to buy the whole axle as it came from the factory. When I told him I could get an NOS one he said go for it, that is the best way to do it.

Brian
04-15-2015 09:39 PM
boothboy
Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
What I "work on", I ordered my hub for the Rambler was it. I am enjoying driving the Gran Sport.

Brian
Where did you find it?

BB
04-15-2015 09:22 PM
boothboy Yes I was talking about your a/c clutch. What I was trying to explain is that upon occasion the gap between the shoe (the plate at the very front of the compressor) gets opened up enough that the magnetic coil isn't strong enough to the shoe into the rotor (pully). By tapping it with screwdriver while the engine is running and the a/c is on it will engage. What usually causes this is excessive wear between the shoe and rotor. The wear usually comes from a leaking front seal and the surfaces get oily causing the shoe to momentarily slip before making good contact with the face of the rotor. Depending on the type of compressor sometime the shoe is spaced with shims. Remove a shim and the shoe moves closer.Then the magnet is strong enough to make the whole darn thing work. It's a temporary fix at best. BUT it doesn't cost anything.

I did primarily A/C repair for the last twenty years of being a mechanic. Why A/C? Easy. The average mechanic years ago could do most everything except three things. Automatic transmissions, electrical wiring, and A/C repair. All three required a lot of diagnostic skills. So I looked for a field that every one couldn't do and burnt transmission stink so I became a a/c man. Made a crap load of money also.

BB
04-15-2015 08:18 PM
MARTINSR What I "work on", I ordered my hub for the Rambler was it. I am enjoying driving the Gran Sport.

Brian
04-15-2015 07:26 PM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by boothboy View Post
Sometimes if the gap is too large the coil can't pull the plate (shoe)to engage with the rotor . If you tap it with a hammer they engage.

Re-setting the gap fixes the problem.

BB
Are you referring to the a/c clutch BB? If so explain a little more.....

John
04-15-2015 06:12 PM
boothboy
Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
Sorry to say I have not done anything in the world of hot rodding for a while.

I bought this immaculately clean '95 Silverado Saturday and 2 days later it quit running. I got it running with the help of a friend (Distributor module) and diagnosed the A/C system today. Bypassed the low pressure switch and found the compressor clutch is not working but is getting 12 volts to it.. Also, is low on refrigerant so today I ordered a new compressor and clutch, drier, orifice tube, and oring kit.

After fixing the dist mod the truck has a slight intermittent miss under a light pull while cruising. It seems to be getting better as I drive it though. Maybe the ECM is recalibrating itself but I ordered plugs and wires for it anyway. I am thinking maybe I fouled a plug trying to crank it when the module failed. The two I pulled were pretty wet with gasoline.

John
Sometimes if the gap is too large the coil can't pull the plate (shoe)to engage with the rotor . If you tap it with a hammer they engage.

Re-setting the gap fixes the problem.

BB
04-15-2015 05:56 PM
hduff
Re-arranging the Cars

We got both Plymouth hotrods running so we could move the 2002 Isuzu Trooper onto the 4-post lift and begin work on that. We're told it has a blown head gasket, but the oil doesn't indicate that. The PO had started the repair and given up.

From left to right: '37 Plymouth, '59 Triumph TR3, 2002 Isuzu Trooper, '39 Plymouth, '36 Auburn Speedster, '54 TR3 above a '60 TR3. There is another TR3 just out of sight to the right. The garage is full.
04-15-2015 05:53 PM
496CHEVY3100 I don't know about the 95 but on my 88 ,manual says drive it 30 miles it will reset its self ,my 2005 it must be set manualy ,,some one will pich in,
04-15-2015 05:36 PM
John long Sorry to say I have not done anything in the world of hot rodding for a while.

I bought this immaculately clean '95 Silverado Saturday and 2 days later it quit running. I got it running with the help of a friend (Distributor module) and diagnosed the A/C system today. Bypassed the low pressure switch and found the compressor clutch is not working but is getting 12 volts to it.. Also, is low on refrigerant so today I ordered a new compressor and clutch, drier, orifice tube, and oring kit.

After fixing the dist mod the truck has a slight intermittent miss under a light pull while cruising. It seems to be getting better as I drive it though. Maybe the ECM is recalibrating itself but I ordered plugs and wires for it anyway. I am thinking maybe I fouled a plug trying to crank it when the module failed. The two I pulled were pretty wet with gasoline.

John
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