|07-05-2012 06:40 AM|
|07-03-2012 05:04 PM|
Anytime you wet-sand a clear and then set in the sun and the scratches disappear, means it was unactivated or the activator is bad, cause by the solvents escaping.
Once the activator gets below 50% of activity, this is when you will see this.
The clear will never be stable, if it has had that much sun life.
The job you are doing, I would only take the clear off, just not worth the risk of re-coating and you end up taking all of it off a year later, when it looks like dried mud.
|07-03-2012 01:17 PM|
|cyclopsblown34||This is to cut and reclear. Our intention was to cut the edges, clear the whole hood and make the seam disappear but this clear is not acting like clear normally does.|
|07-03-2012 01:09 PM|
|tech69||In a perfect world I'd cut it a little earlier than that and let the clear breathe a little before buffing. Sounds like you may have waited too long to cut but then again I don't cut my clear with 400 grit. Seems like in any case it should be cutting with a 400. Is there polish on it?|
|07-03-2012 12:10 PM|
Clearcoat problem question.
I got my son's hood for his 90 Chevy truck back from the airbrush guy and started sanding on it this weekend after it sat in the sun for two weeks behind my shop. It has Nason Giallo Fly basecoat with Nason 497-00 clear as the base color and then flame stripes with Nason base and 498-00 clear over that. The problem occurred when I went to cut the dirt and bugs out of what the airbrush guy sprayed on the "stripes", I can cut it wet with 400 grit and when it dries, the clear still has a sheen as if it hasn't been sanded. I know he used 498 clear but don't know about the activator or how much activator he used. He swears it was mixed per the can directions. Any ideas on what might have caused this? I'm about to sand it all off and start over. The clear I sprayed over the yellow does as it is supposed to when sanded.
Thanks in advance.