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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-22-2012 05:39 AM
deadbodyman The plastic clips are very easy to work with,once you know how. The clip itself stays in the latch , there is a shoulder on the clip that snaps over the rod all you have to do is pull the shoulder down off the rod and the rod slips right off.
Without any pics I cant say for sure but it seams to me the cable is the whole problem...Most latches need a stiff rod for the locking part so they can be pushed AND pulled ,cables only pull so a cable would be fine to open the latch release but not the locking mechanisem .
07-20-2012 10:48 PM
aarias-31
1985 chevy C-10 shaved door handles

Thanks. I am using Spal brand and according to the directions we are using the correct wire for channel 1. I just dont see any way of mounting the selenoid to the side of the door where the latch is. I know it makes more sense to mount therebut, I just cant see it. I am also afraid if we disconnect the connecting rod from the interior handle we will never get it back on the cheap little plastic clips or where we could get another clip if we break it. Do you think the nut I welded on the connecting rod will work? Are we doing something wrong? I thought by using the bike cable in the housing that the cable could be more forgiving as far as the way the motor mounted and the line the cable traveled. The cable is not in a straight linebut, when disconnected from selenoid it moves freely in housing in the same position. We appreciate all the help Deadbodyman!
07-20-2012 09:31 PM
deadbodyman it could be as simple as reversing the wires .you would have to check the solinoid on the bench to see if it pushes or pulls when current is applied then reverse the wires to see if it changes.and mount the solinoid accordingly (upside down or rightside up) ..the latch only has two directions also so get in there in pull the lever with your finger (rods removed.
)Uusing the shaft of a screw driver or something like that sliding in the latch as a striker would can tell you what the latch is doing without actually closing the door every time
My solinoid is mounted at 3:00 (horizontal) but that only releases the lock mechanisim you still a spring to actually pop the door open..
07-20-2012 11:06 AM
aarias-31
1985 chevy C-10 shaved door handles

I got the Spal 40 lb. kit. A few people told me they were strong enough?? I looked up some info on installation and most of them are installed straight up and down. On his 85" it looks like the mechanism goes upward and does not pull down. This is why some say to weld a nut on the connecting rod and pull towards the hinges. Anyone ever used the Spal 40 lb. unit before?
07-20-2012 11:00 AM
astroracer Make sure the solenoids you are using have enough "pull" when the latch is closed. Sounds like you may have small or weal solenoids.
Mark
07-20-2012 10:29 AM
aarias-31
1985 chevy C-10 shaved door handles

Hello Hotrodders, I am fairly new to this site. A couple hotrodders have been very helpful so far. I have a father son project. Its a 1985 shortbed pick up. We got the truck for my 15 y/o sons 1st truck. We got it in pieces with the front clip and motor in the back of the truck. Since then we have done alot of work to it. With help from some hotrodders we got the motor back together with upgrades to the cam, lifters, springs, intake, carb, headers and dress up kit. We painted the frame, just finished the cab and need to finish the bed.

Now, to get to my questions. We also did some welding, to fix a little rust, and some body work. He decided he wanted to shave the door handles and remove all the trim. We are now trying to install the door selinoids. We cannot figure out how to install them. I welded a nut to the inside handle connecting rod that goes back to the latch release and mounted the selinoid toward the hinges. But, when we try to open the door the popper will not pop it open when the door is open the popper works good. Any ideas???
Thanks

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