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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-03-2016 09:39 PM
64nailhead Transmission Line Pressure - TCI® Auto

Bowtie Overdrives | TV Made EZ

TH-700R4 Basic Information

Some good info/reference on TV cable adjustment, operation and line pressures. The tvmadeez link has alot of info in other pages at that website as well. The pressure readings on a stock unit should be similar to the TCI pages listing for 'streetfighter'.

But again, you need to have the correct geometry - get us some pictures.
02-03-2016 08:29 PM
hcompton Not sure if your car is stock but the normal setting of the tv cable as from the manual for my 89 corvette. I guess you dont need it off the ground but I prefer it so the car wont try to drive off as you play with the gas pedal.

Here is a phone snap shot from the procedure from the manual you kind of got to assume a few things. That the base line pressure is set and the proper slack in the cable is present at idle.

It also assumes you know how to install the pressure gauge and you have an accurate tach that is very close to the dead on.

FYI figure 6 just shows you how to adjust the cable at the throttle body. Its not useful information.

Hope this helps.
02-03-2016 05:25 PM
64nailhead
Quote:
Originally Posted by jexrod View Post
Thanks!


I used an aftermarket bracket that bolts to the intake.
Not sure what you mean by line pressure.


Didn't fully understand the lock up kit wiring. Pretty confident I wired it correctly inside the trans, but need to figure a switch. I ended up using the TCI kit.


I will dig into it this weekend and see what happens.

There is an 1/8" npt plug in the trans on the driver side of the trans towards the bell housing. It is an access port to hookup a manual 300 psi gauge to check 'line' pressure which actually is the pump pressure being delivered to the trans. Line pressure is controlled by the TV (throttle valve) via a cable from the TV, on the passenger side of the trans, to the throttle lever on the carb or throttle body. Notice the caps - IT IS CRITICAL TO HAVE THE CORRECT GEOMETRY ON THE THROTTLE LEVER END. Incorrect geometry will result in too low of line pressure during different throttle positions. But in a nutshell, as the throttle is depressed the TV cable is pulled applying more line pressure for the transmission. Again, too low of line pressure will absolutely wreck the transmission in a hurry. Trust me.

If you are running the correct lever and are using a factory cable and cable mount then the factory set procedure is quite reliable, which doesn't require a line pressure gauge. Also, and very important, the TV cable adjustment is not designed to tune shift points or firmness. If it isn't shifting correctly with correct TV cable adjustment, then you have other issues that need to be corrected.


I set the TV cable via watching line pressures while driving, and I verify proper pressures when shifting from park,reverse, drive and low. I have no idea how you can set the pressures with the wheels in the air because output shaft speed has nothing to do with the line pressure unless you're applying the brakes at the same time.


If you're not sure what you have, then attach some photos. Regarding the lockup kit, I should only affect the operation when in overdrive if you valve body is stock.
02-03-2016 12:49 PM
BuzzLOL I think the stock method was to supply power to the lockup all the time, then the computer grounded the connection to complete the circuit... if that helps at all...
02-03-2016 12:45 PM
jexrod
Quote:
Originally Posted by 64nailhead View Post
Loose rocker arm - easy fix. What are you running for rocker arms? Highly recommend re-adjusting the valves after 1/2-1 hr of drive/run time. Give you a great opportunity to see how things are going under the valve covers and time to retorque the heads, headers/exhaust manifold and intake manifold.

Regarding dialing in the 700, how did you set the TV cable?
Have you checked the line pressure?
What are you using for a carb TV cable bracket?
What is it doing that that makes you think it needs to be dialed in?


Great to see you're still at it. Keep the faith and get it done




Thanks!


I used an aftermarket bracket that bolts to the intake.
Not sure what you mean by line pressure.


Didn't fully understand the lock up kit wiring. Pretty confident I wired it correctly inside the trans, but need to figure a switch. I ended up using the TCI kit.


I will dig into it this weekend and see what happens.
02-03-2016 06:28 AM
hcompton testing the tv cable with a pressure gauge and a car in the drive way with the wheels off the ground works the best. It some times takes some fiddling to get it right and the cable set wrong can damage the trans so its best to do it under no load. Just make sure the car is safely off the ground where you can get in and out several times without the worry of knocking it off the jack stands.

With the pressure gauge and the correct procedure the trans is easy to setup. Also holley makes some brackets for there carbs that make getting the cable geometry correct very easy. Without them it can be difficult to make it all work. The same is true for most carbs as far as tv cable brackets.


FYI you may want to start a new thread to get the proper attention from the tranny guys.
02-03-2016 03:14 AM
64nailhead
Quote:
Originally Posted by jexrod View Post
Back from the dead...

The noise was coming from a loose rocket arm. Took quite a bit of investigating but finally got it figured out. Unfortunately, never really got it on the road. Tried dialing in the 700r with a couple of trips around the block but never quite figured it out. Have been tackling some body work and just now getting back to the drivetrain.
Loose rocker arm - easy fix. What are you running for rocker arms? Highly recommend re-adjusting the valves after 1/2-1 hr of drive/run time. Give you a great opportunity to see how things are going under the valve covers and time to retorque the heads, headers/exhaust manifold and intake manifold.

Regarding dialing in the 700, how did you set the TV cable?
Have you checked the line pressure?
What are you using for a carb TV cable bracket?
What is it doing that that makes you think it needs to be dialed in?


Great to see you're still at it. Keep the faith and get it done
02-03-2016 12:10 AM
jexrod
Quote:
Originally Posted by BuzzLOL View Post
. That cam and Vortec heads should get you into the 350-400 HP range... did you find the noise yet? Loose rocker arms?

Back from the dead...

The noise was coming from a loose rocket arm. Took quite a bit of investigating but finally got it figured out. Unfortunately, never really got it on the road. Tried dialing in the 700r with a couple of trips around the block but never quite figured it out. Have been tackling some body work and just now getting back to the drivetrain.
05-03-2014 01:50 PM
BuzzLOL . That cam and Vortec heads should get you into the 350-400 HP range... did you find the noise yet? Loose rocker arms?
05-02-2014 09:40 PM
jexrod More info I forgot to post.... Items I finally settled on.
Holley 600cfm Electric Choke
Engle Cam 1018H @.50 IN 216 @.50 OUT 226
Fel Pro 1094 Gasket -
Flat Top Piston is +4cc valve reliefs
Piston to deck is .029
05-02-2014 11:22 AM
jexrod Double checked TDC, it's good. Will try and dig into more tomorrow to see what i find.
04-22-2014 10:25 AM
BuzzLOL . Just today stumbled across this old thread with new postings/updates... I would have suggested the 200-4R tranny as someone else above did, since it's the same length as the PowerGlide and can use the same driveshaft... but, since you have the 700-R4 at a super deal, that will work as well and give an even lower 3.05:1 1st gear vs the 200-4R's 2.74:1 1st (and TH350/TH400 2.54 1st), so that gets the big Impala moving even better off the line with a 327"... although a rather large jump from 1st to 2nd, but still light years better than a PowerSlide... also, the 700 has less overdrive than a 200, so also fits the smaller 327" better...

. 327 can make good low RPM torque, although the torque curve characteristics aren't quite as favorable as a longer stroke engine, but you prolly won't notice any difference on the street... a good combo of heads, cam, compression ratio, engine quench is much more important...

. What cam, head gaskets, and pistons did you end up with? ... I'd suggest up to about a 219/229 cam for a Vortec headed 327" in a large '66 Impala aiming toward 400 HP/400 torque... 9.5:1 - 10.5:1 compression ratio... Some people above apparently didn't read or understand your Alex 'no mods for Vortec heads' link above...

. The noise? maybe a problem with the fuel pump pushrod? Rod bolts that didn't get properly tightened? An exhaust rocker arm stud broke creating combustion back into intake manifold/carb.? Bent pushrod? Vortec heads originally came with self-guiding pushrods, you can't mix the guide plates system with the self-guiding system parts in the same engine! They will fit each other for alignment.

. The AirGap intake is fine since you're in Pasadena, Cal. and not particularly concerned with cold weather/engine warmup...
04-20-2014 09:05 AM
Hogg
Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
There's really not much to add to this thread that is over a year old, except to put in my two cents worth concerning max lift on stock L31 heads.

If a fellow is to use anything over 0.425" valve lift in these motors without mods, he's asking for trouble. Is there room to do it? Yes. Are you using up the safety margin? Yes. You don't put a motor together without some play (safety margin) between the bottom of the retainer and the top of the seal to account for an over-rev.
The stock cams that came on ALL 1996-2003 L31 Vortec 350's use a cam with lift specs of 0.412/0.428" 191/196° on a 111º LSA.
And all 1996-2013 marine Vortec 350 engines engines, which use the same L31 Vortec 350 heads are used with a 196º/206º 0.431"/0.451" 109ºLSA, with 1.5:1 rockers.
Then we have the Ramjet 350 crate engine which uses that same 196/206º 0.431"/0.451" 109ºLSA roller cam, but this time GMPP(now CPP) decided to use the 1.6:1 full roller rockers which now puts lift up at 0.460"/0.481".


STock equipement


Clearance when using Comp 787-16 retainers which are designed for Beehive springs and the GEN 1 and GEN 1E and GEN 2 valve stem diameters.


Suggested install of valve seals.



peace
Hog
04-20-2014 06:54 AM
73gremlin You sure its in time?
04-20-2014 12:54 AM
jexrod I finally separated the engine and tranny, found the flex plate in good order. Started the engine with no tranny or exhaust attached and sounds like the noise is coming from the engine.... Haven't been able to adjust the carb, car starts immediately but dies when I step on the throttle. I hooked up a test light and it looks like its about 12-14 btdc. Oil pressure at idle is around 52. Sounds like a very loud backfire, any ideas on what to look for?
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