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Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Transmission - Rearend> Manual conversion. Best 4 speed?
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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-10-2012 08:42 AM
bigdog7373
Quote:
Originally Posted by RWENUTS View Post
The crank one is a pilot bearing or bushing.
THe linkage kit will be the same.
Might need a tranny mount too.
Crossmember to bolt tranny and mount to also.
Possible starter change too depending on whether you use a 153 or 168 tooth flywheel.
Buy a matched clutch kit too. You need to match the pressure plate to the throw out bearing. Raised finger plate uses a short throw out bearing and a flat finger uses a long bearing.
Depending on spline on output shaft you might need a different yoke for your driveshaft.
thanks i got the crossmember and mount and also the drive shaft with it.
09-07-2012 06:48 PM
RWENUTS The crank one is a pilot bearing or bushing.
THe linkage kit will be the same.
Might need a tranny mount too.
Crossmember to bolt tranny and mount to also.
Possible starter change too depending on whether you use a 153 or 168 tooth flywheel.
Buy a matched clutch kit too. You need to match the pressure plate to the throw out bearing. Raised finger plate uses a short throw out bearing and a flat finger uses a long bearing.
Depending on spline on output shaft you might need a different yoke for your driveshaft.
09-07-2012 05:24 PM
bigdog7373 Ok so i guess it would be a good idea to make a list.
The linkage kit
pedals
bellhousing
flywheel
clutch and pressure plate
clutch fork
release bearing
and the bearing at the end of the crank (does it have a name?)

is that everything?
One more question, the tranny i have is a muncie but the car only came with a t10. The linkage kit is the same?
09-07-2012 03:59 PM
mikey44 That kit is everything from the pedals to the clutch fork. If you don't have a bell housing for a manual tranny you will have to get one, along with the clutch fork, release bearing. The bearing you can get at any automotive store. You can also get the bell housing and fork new if you want, from that site also. Like someone mentioned earlier, you also need the bushing/bearing in the end of the crank.
09-07-2012 09:22 AM
bigdog7373
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikey44 View Post
FBodywarehouse.com is a good site. It has complete kits to hook up your 4 speed. Linkage kits, pedals, etc. No trannies though.
FbodyWarehouse :: 1974 - 1978 Trans Am :: Transmission Parts :: 1972 - 1981 Camaro Trans Am Clutch Linkage Kit NEW IS this everything i need?
08-30-2012 07:30 PM
mikey44 FBodywarehouse.com is a good site. It has complete kits to hook up your 4 speed. Linkage kits, pedals, etc. No trannies though.
08-23-2012 09:30 AM
bigdog7373 Thanks! You guys have been very helpful. I wont be able to put it in the car til next summer though. Anything that you would recomend to do to get a good 100k out of it?
08-22-2012 07:11 AM
AutoGear A lot of good info in here. If its a GM gearset; its an M20. However, a lot of companies back in the day made replacement gearsets, and we have no clue if they knew what the ID grooves meant.

You can put it in 1st gear and turn the input ten times; if the output turns 22 times (2.20 1st gear) its an M21 or M22. If it turns 25 times (2.5 1st gear) its an M20. You got a reasonable deal, if it doesn't leak like a stuck pig. Make sure you adjust the linkage properly, and the shift stops as well (if there are any).
Don't lean on the shifter as said before, it makes the shift forks and synchro teeth wear faster/ unevenly.
You only really need a quart of trans fluid. I know they say fill it up; but that fill hole migrated a lot. The gearset needs a quart to live happy. I'd go to Napa and have them order a qt of Sta-Lube p/n SL24229. Its a non Synthetic GL4 rated 80w-90 (I think, might be 75w90). Its a bit thicker than the synthetics and its not as prone to leaking out of every crevice.

Enjoy it.
08-21-2012 09:00 PM
vinniekq2 shifter can cause side loads if you lean on it a little
08-21-2012 08:31 PM
bigdog7373 Thanks for the info i'll definitely check into it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
also with this transmission,dont get into the habit of leaving your hand on the shifter when cruising around town. This applys to most standards,,,
Just curious on the reasoning behind this.
08-21-2012 08:00 PM
vinniekq2 http://www.dandltransmission.com/muncie66_70.jpg
dont take it apart.note: the main shaft rides on uncaged bearings,lose 1 and you are in trouble.A transmission guy can see enough by taking off the cover.second gear synchros wear quickly and 3rd gear hold back wears and the transmission might jump out of third when down shifting into 3rd,especially coasting down hill.

also with this transmission,dont get into the habit of leaving your hand on the shifter when cruising around town. This applys to most standards,,,
08-21-2012 07:23 PM
bigdog7373 Can it be checked without pulling it apart?
08-21-2012 07:04 PM
vinniekq2 second gear sinchro ring should be checked before installing.also
08-21-2012 06:53 PM
bigdog7373 Looks like it might be an m20 cause of the 2 rings... Can't know for sure til i pull the side cover and check out the gears. It looks to be in very nice shape. No broken ears or stripped bolts or anything like that. All gears go in smoothly. I'm happy with it.
08-21-2012 06:44 PM
MadMacs
Muncie I.D.

here's a link for Muncie Identification, one of the best in my opinion. Muncie 4 Speed Transmissions... so far seems to me you have a 26 spline d M-20. made in 1970 to 74. But you still need to pull the side cover to check the (cut) of the gears to know for sure. Also to V8-4spd... not all Muncie trans case ear were broken from torque abuse. A really common failure is using the bellhousing to transmission bolts to line up with the pilot bushing. Also improper grade of bolts. I used Grade 8 bolts, flats, and lock washers. But I always torgue them properly, I replace my lock washers at any teardown too. Also a transmission jack is worth it price ( in broken case ears ) in proper placing of your transmission.... as opposed to the wood block on a floor jack as we all have done
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