|08-23-2012 04:16 PM|
|WriterDennis||I don't recall the backspacing on my wheels, but I have them painted and have the tires mounted. I then did some measuring and determined that a 60 1/2 inch wide rear axle will fit with about 1 1/2 inch fender clearance on both sides. I'll go with a nine inch Ford rear end, but still need to purchase that. I already have the Heidt's four link for the rear, but still need to purchase the coilovers as well. In the front, I have the Heidt's Superide with the dropped spindles. I had essentially the same front and rear suspension on my daily driver '51 Chevy truck and it handled great.|
|08-23-2012 09:39 AM|
Thanks for the info Raven and Dennis.. I really do like the look of 15 inch ralleys and it's going to be a cruiser. I like the idea of getting something that will for sure fit and look good then upgrading later on when the time comes. How's our suspension set up Dennis? Any backspacing required on your rear wheels?
DSRaven; thanks for all the helpful tips regarding the from suspension install. Couple of questions....what are you running in regards to the rear suspension and rear axle? If I understood you correctly, your setup with a 2 degree rake and 2 inch drop spindles required you to c-notch the rear? Did you have to notch the front to clear the rack and pinion?
Thanks for all your input, I'm a newbie when it comes to these things...
|08-22-2012 05:29 PM|
On the front, you cannot really determine what size wheels and tires you can run until you install the suspension you are going to use. To try to "anticipate" is merely asking for headaches and extra expenses. I would "guess" however that 18 x 8 is a lot of wheel and tire in the front of one of those trucks... at least if it is sitting down where it should be. OK, I like 'em low.
For my '55 Chevy pickup, I have 15 x 7 GM ralleys with 225/60R15 and 15 x 8 with 255/70R15 front and rear respectively. They are not on the truck yet (still under construction), but I know they will fit. Later on, I can see how much more room I have to get a better feel for fancy (expensive) wheels and tires.
Obviously I can't say everyone, but I think most trucks that have 18 inch or larger wheels on the front are using air bags. I don't know if you are or not, but just wanted to mention that.
Dennis W. Parks
Author of automotive how-to books
|08-22-2012 03:26 PM|
I have a 57 gmc that I am working on. just have the chassis on stands with the tci front end in. I have a 8.8 ford diff from an explorer with the discs etc. and a homemade 4 link from welders series. anyway, just a word of caution before you weld in your tci front end make sure to get the geometry right. they sent me the wrong crossmember so I put it all together and tacked it in, assembled it as a mock up and found it was way out of whack. after checking out a few sites, mostly heidts mustang II geometry, I ended up taking it all out and trial end errored it untill I got it right. with the lower control arms sitting level it is best if the upper control arms are actually sloped downward at the inside/frame end. like a couple of degrees. that way when you go over a bump the wheel doesn't tip out at the top and make your tires rub on the fenders. also you will need to build in some antidive, the upper "hats" are usually tipped up at the front about 4 degrees. you have to put the front end together and mock up the cab and fenders etc so you know what you have for space between the wheel mounting surface and the fender, and also the wheel mounting surface and the frame. one more thing, when you drop the truck, as in with mustang II and drop spindles, you will probably want to put the crossmember an inch ahead of the original centre line for the axle. otherwise the wheels look like they are too far back in the fender wells.
I have the mustang II tci with the 2 inch drop spindles and had to c notch the frame out back to get the stance I wanted-2 degrees of rake.assemble it all and use a digital level so you know what you have before it is too late, like after welding. otherwise you will be looking for a set of no drop mustang II spindles so you don't have to c notch. or, maybe that was your plan anyway. when I did mine I had the frame up on jack stands that were modified so there was a piece of threaded rod and a jam nut in place of the moveable jack stand part. this had a 3/8 bolt welded on the top that would go through a hole in the truck frame with a jam nut on top of that. I had one at each corner so I could move the threaded rod up or down and then lock it there, to get the frame perfectly level side to side, and also the proper rake angle front to back. then the crossmember was tacked in at level side to side and front to back (using the lower control arm bolt in the pivot holes, not a level on the crossmember). then the front end was mocked up using some threaded rod in place of the air bags, and everything was set up to be level at ride height. just to be sure the angles were all correct etc. THEN it dissassembled and was welded in.
anyway, good luck. i think you need the front end assembled and pretty close for wheel alignment, to get the proper wheel backspacing.
|08-07-2012 05:00 PM|
Task force Wheel and tire size??
Im looking into getting my wheels and tires for my 1957 chevy stepside.
Currently its setup with a TCI 4 inch drop leaf spring rear suspension. 2nd gen camaro 8.5 10 bolt rear with 11 inch rear disc brake conversion. I also have TCI mustang II IFS with 2 inch drop spindles. not installed yet...waiting to get the wheels and tires first.
I would like to run 18x8's all the way around but im curious to see what others have run. I do like the corvette style rallys too.
Wheel/tire and possible offset dimensions? possible photos with a similar setup as mine? I dont know much about the fitment of the wheels and tires and how to get them to fit right.
Thanks in advance.