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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-31-2012 11:42 AM
clintondp ive had this dist. out of the truck atleadt 20 times now . ive checked top dead center on number one everytime an ive even tried it 180 out. if it timing at this point then the cam is off from the crank. an this thing ran like a rapped ape a week ago.
08-31-2012 05:12 AM
hpete Your timing is off.
08-30-2012 06:54 PM
clintondp disconnected the alt. an ran stand alone 12v wire to batt terminal. nothin. had a god gm module i had tested . i had them test it close to 20 times to get it supa dupa hot to se if there was thermal break down. also tested coil . it tested good. im at complete odds . only thing i havent checked is to see if i have a groundd wire on the starter. but like i said i havent popped one fuse either so i dnt know how i could have a dead short an no burnt fuses. should i also disconnect the two wire harness from the alt too an try starting it? could all these symptoms now point to just going new plugs cap.rotor wires? i mean all that stuff is fresh an was working 6 days ago. i havent tested the cap to see if theresbreaks in the contacts but ive ohmd the wires an they test good. ugh i dnt know boys its getting sticky
08-30-2012 02:08 PM
clintondp im charging the battery this second. but i started disconnecting the alt an dizzy. which is where im starting . im jumping from battery to batt terminal hei then ive doscoonected the alt power lead . but before i try starting it ive found one funky thing. with key off the alt wire reads battery voltage ( normal) . power wire to hei has no voltage but set to ohms an i get a weak ohms reading from the lead to ground. hmmmmmm but i get battery voltage withkey on on hei wire. no burnt fuses? rediculous. must be why they used inline ones from factory.
08-30-2012 01:05 PM
clintondp im charging the battery this second. but i started disconnecting the alt an dizzy. which is where im starting . im jumping from battery to batt terminal hei then ive doscoonected the alt power lead . but before i try starting it ive found one funky thing. with key off the alt wire reads battery voltage ( normal) . power wire to hei has no voltage but set to ohms an i get a weak ohms reading from the lead to ground. hmmmmmm but i get battery voltage withkey on on hei wire. no burnt fuses? rediculous. must be why they used inline ones from factory.
08-30-2012 12:39 PM
SSedan64
Quote:
Originally Posted by clintondp View Post
is there any identifiable markings on the oem fusiable links to know there amp rating ? or are they all the same
Usually they aren't marked but, you can check the AWG size they're attached to for what you'll need.
Info here >> Catalog

Most all I've found locally are in sq.mm sizes.
2.0 sq. mm = about 14-AWG.
1.0 sq. mm = about 18-AWG
08-30-2012 08:11 AM
cdminter59
85 GMC fuse-box diagram

here is a website that has a wiring diagram of a fuse box of 1985 GMC truck. It might help you trace some of the wires from the alternator back to the fuse box. labeled fuse box diagram for 1986 truck - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network.
08-30-2012 08:10 AM
cdminter59
85 GMC fuse-box diagram

here is a website that has a wiring diagram of a fuse box of 1985 GMC truck. It might help you trace some of the wires from the alternator back to the fuse box.
08-30-2012 02:10 AM
clintondp is there any identifiable markings on the oem fusiable links to know there amp rating ? or are they all the same
08-30-2012 01:22 AM
clintondp yes sir that sounds like a good plan. do you think its odd that it hasnt blown any fuses ? eitherway ill be stringing her out tomorrow an we will see.

thanks for the help so far guys .
08-30-2012 12:03 AM
dsraven you can pick up one of those oem fusible links at pick n pull for cheap. they are better than an inline fuse because they burn a little slower plus they take a little more power through them for their size. and they look like they are supposed to be there.
check there first, but if it was me, i would disconnect everything. the alt and the dizzy, tape over anything that is hot, and jumper the dizzy from a direct battery feed. just to see if it runs. set up the timing etc so when you get things right, or are just trying to figure it out, you will know when you crank it that if things are right it will for sure start. then i would trouble shoot the other stuff.
08-29-2012 11:52 PM
clintondp oh good input . nice thankyou . oh an about that fusible link. before i started driving the truck it had a lil rat nest of wires from cruise control an ac. well i bundled it all up an shunted them then taped them into the harness. i couldnt find anything on the diagrahm in the chilton about a fusible link. i actually removed it from the fire wall an butted those wires together to again clean up under the hood. i know right where i did it an can get at the harness. i may need to pull all that back an add a inline fuse maybe . i bet my wires melted together right there . alt. tested good at auto zone. an running optima red 880 cca
08-29-2012 11:35 PM
dsraven maybe when you shorted the alt you fried some diodes inside the alt. try disconnecting the alt and run on just battery power. once you get the dizzy all good,make sure you have a good battery, jumper the dizzy power supply over to the battery, and try starting it up. that would take all the other wiring out of the equation and run on a stand alone system. then, once you confirm that it actually runs all by itself, start hooking up other stuff and see what the problem is by a process of elimination. you should be able to take the alt in for testing at a napa store or something like that, just to eliminate that as a problem. then test the power wire from the alt to make sure it isn't going to a ground or something. also, on the firewall is there a fusible link? looks like a junction block but has 2 terminals and maybe 3 wires? check to make sure the fusible link part didn't blow. it looks like a strip of flat metal that connects the 2 terminals. one wire goes to the alt and the other wire feeds the fuse box inside the cab, i think. worth a look anyway. good luck
08-29-2012 10:26 PM
clintondp . yeah i pulled the dizzy to do the intake . i had already had it out once when i was running new vacuum fittings ect. but ive checked my tdc. i pulled number one spark plug used a peice of hose because i didnt have a helper an cranked her over untill it was blowing air in my face . i had reference marks on the housing an the cap an put it back right where i had it. well from the block an head numbers its a pre 81 2 bolt 350. it was definitely a points engine but when it was transferred into my 85 i want to assume it was an hei truck . so they dropped the hei back in it which is how i bought it . i need to check maybe if i fried a wire . but theres no idication of thar since . it didnt once blow a fuse or smell hot . what ever it is frying or shorting is discharging directly at the hei. i tested the new coil . its fried too. no omhs at batt terminal to carbon contact. but i do have less than an ohm from batt to tach terminal. . i want to say that maybe when i arced out the alt on the frame i super heated the power lead from the alt. an may have glued it directly to a ignition wire . so its getting unregulated constant voltage as soon as i hook the battery up . ill see though thats my next move 12v from battery to dizzy.though ill probably still pull back some of the harness a take a look . maybe back probe the fuse block an see if a wire is energizing the circuit when just the battery is hooked up with ignition off
08-29-2012 09:00 PM
dsraven so, I am assuming you pulled the distributor when you resealed the intake, correct? are you sure you have the distributor in the correct way and set up so it is close enough to start?maybe theinitial timing is out of whack enough so it pops and farts or maybe the distributor is 1/2 a turn out. like it would be trying to fire #6 instead of #1? did you turn the engine over when the distibutor was out? are you sure it is put back in correctly? to check, put the vibe damper on the zero mark and then check if your rotor is pointing to number one spark plug wire or the number 6 spark plug wire. then if that is good, make sure your corresponding cylinder(either 1 or 6) is actually on the firing stroke not an intake stroke. was this vehicle set up for an hei distributor from factory or was it a points style originally and then converted? if a conversion, try just running a hot jumper wire directly from the battery to the "power in" connector at the distributor and then try starting it. disconnect the original wire, tape it up so it won't possibly short on anything, and just remember that you will have to pull the jumper wire off to stop the engine. if it starts and runs then the problem is in the ignition feed circuit.
good luck and keep us posted.
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