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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-02-2012 09:46 PM
timothale
how much paint.

Has it been repainted, how many layers, there is quite a bit of info in the WIKI article here on HR about paint removal, prep, My willys had several layers and I scraped it first , faster than all the sanding,
10-02-2012 09:24 PM
Lizer
Quote:
Originally Posted by grenade inspector View Post
So I am new at all of this, I am 24 and trying to restore a '58 gmc in my garage with pretty limited resources. I have been reading up and I come up with this plan of attach for doing bodywork in a small garage in the middle of a neighborhood on my own... The plan is to D/A large areas (doors, hood, fenders, any flatish parts I can get the sander on) then use a flap wheel (like on a dremel or die grinder) in tighter areas. I was looking at picking up a "speedblaster" or something similar for real tricky areas and corners and seems. Then I will use ospho and scotchbrite pads or steel wool to scrub every surface and finally coat with ospho and let dry. when i get a few parts completely cleaned I will scuff the surface, degrease, and spray with spi epoxy. Anyone see any potential problems with this? I know it won't be a very quick process, but thats okay with me as long as the work will last when it is done.
Unless you have a huge, good air compressor and a good DA, I have found it to be an exercise in futility and it takes forever. I ended up using a wire wheel on an angle grinder and this is how I stripped my entire car, panel by panel, over a long period of time. Then quick DA with 80 grit just to put some scratches in the metal.

If you do not need to use the Ospho I wouldn't use it. Just get it to bare metal and degrease, then don't touch the metal. My metal will actually flash rust in shapes of my finger prints. I have found that when I degrease my metal after stripping it, it takes longer to flash rust. The Ospho really complicates epoxy application. SPI doesn't recommend it at all, and say the ospho needs to be well neutralized before hand. But the epoxy forms an air tight barrier over the metal. If the metal is clean to start with it needs no extra protection if it's getting epoxy.

In the tighter areas I would use a wire wheel before a flap wheel. Flap wheel generates more heat and can remove metal.

The speedblaster is good for those areas with little nooks and crannies that abrasives don't get down into.

I think you'll find you will want to do your sanding outside because it makes so much dust; your garage will be coated in dust on the inside if you were to sand inside. Secondly, get yourself a half face respirator (you can get them at Lowe's etc for $30, 3M brand) or at MINIMUM, an N95 mask. Any other 'dust mask' below N95 rating is pretty pointless when it comes to protecting you from the material you will be sanding off.

Also, when spraying epoxy your metal temp will need to be at least 60F. Depending on where you live, epoxy spraying season is nearly over.
10-01-2012 08:41 PM
grenade inspector
body restoration plan of attack

So I am new at all of this, I am 24 and trying to restore a '58 gmc in my garage with pretty limited resources. I have been reading up and I come up with this plan of attach for doing bodywork in a small garage in the middle of a neighborhood on my own... The plan is to D/A large areas (doors, hood, fenders, any flatish parts I can get the sander on) then use a flap wheel (like on a dremel or die grinder) in tighter areas. I was looking at picking up a "speedblaster" or something similar for real tricky areas and corners and seems. Then I will use ospho and scotchbrite pads or steel wool to scrub every surface and finally coat with ospho and let dry. when i get a few parts completely cleaned I will scuff the surface, degrease, and spray with spi epoxy. Anyone see any potential problems with this? I know it won't be a very quick process, but thats okay with me as long as the work will last when it is done.

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