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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-14-2012 01:07 PM
ssmonty If you want to use the PCV it might be time for some new valve covers. I know the Corvette covers are nice, but these have GM type oil baffles and cast in oil drippers like the 1970 LT1 aluminum covers. Don't let the picture fool you, they don't have the oil fill cap, I drilled it myself, but no matter since you have the oil tube on the intake. Maybe something to think about?
141108 - Die Cast Aluminum Valve Cover - SBC, Polished with Recessed Emblems, Tall w/Baffle

ssmonty
10-14-2012 11:24 AM
RWENUTS Let's see!
You got an intake that won't seal cause the block and possibly heads have been shaved but the intake hasn't been cut to fit the changed angles.
You got a road draft tube hooked to the aircleaner that's putting oil into the cleaner.
You got a pcv on the oil fill tube but it's not connected right now.
You got high crankcase pressure pushing oil into your cleaner and into the intake ports cause of the mismatched sealing surface.
It's a no brainer!
Cut the intake to fit the angles and get your pcv set up right.
Burn us off a pic of your set up!!
10-14-2012 04:57 AM
1965tripleblack
Quote:
Originally Posted by thinwhiteduke View Post
Where are the taps? Is there some form of baffle incorporated?

Duke
See post #13. The oil fill tube goes into the timing chain area at front of block. There is no baffle.
10-14-2012 12:00 AM
thinwhiteduke Where are the taps? Is there some form of baffle incorporated?

Duke
10-13-2012 11:56 PM
thinwhiteduke
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1965tripleblack View Post
The taps are not in the valve covers, which are cast aluminum Corvette covers. Was thinking about sticking a separator like used in air compressors into the line, so I could watch it and drain when needed. It would fill up in about 100 miles, based on my consumption, so not practical.

Want to figure a better system, if possible. First need to understand why it's happening, and if it's normal, or not.
Where are the taps?
10-13-2012 04:56 PM
1965tripleblack
Quote:
Originally Posted by thinwhiteduke View Post
Does your rocker cover have a baffle installed?
I run those crappy thin pressed moroso covers and I ripped a breather baffle out of a stock sbc steel pressed rocker cover and rivited it into the moroso cover for mine, mine doesn't suck oil.
You could also try putting an inline fuel filter in the PCV hose, that should trap it. Dont know how long before it would become saturated though. Haven't tried it but I heard that Grumpy Jenkins had.

Duke
The taps are not in the valve covers, which are cast aluminum Corvette covers. Was thinking about sticking a separator like used in air compressors into the line, so I could watch it and drain when needed. It would fill up in about 100 miles, based on my consumption, so not practical.

Want to figure a better system, if possible. First need to understand why it's happening, and if it's normal, or not.
10-13-2012 03:33 PM
thinwhiteduke Does your rocker cover have a baffle installed?
I run those crappy thin pressed moroso covers and I ripped a breather baffle out of a stock sbc steel pressed rocker cover and rivited it into the moroso cover for mine, mine doesn't suck oil.
You could also try putting an inline fuel filter in the PCV hose, that should trap it. Dont know how long before it would become saturated though. Haven't tried it but I heard that Grumpy Jenkins had.

Duke
10-13-2012 11:45 AM
1965tripleblack
Important update

Important update

AS A TEST, I removed and plugged the suction hose containing the PCV valve from the carb base. So now, what I have is:

1. Old road draft tube hole in rear of block STILL connected to air cleaner housing via stock Chevy 1" hose.

2. After removing and plugging 3/8" PCV hose from oil fill tube at front of intake manifold, I installed a temporary piece of filter material from an old breather filter to cover the nipple.

So the crankcase is vented to atmosphere at the oil fill tube, and vented to the air filter housing at the draft tube location.

Took the car for a 130 mile ride where cruising mostly at 50-70 MPH. Took engine at WOT to 7500 RPM three times. Took engine to 6000 RPM in 1st gear a few times and closed throttle. Never saw smoke out the back (not that I had ever seen any before, so no change here).

Got home and removed plugs. All 8 dry. What I did find this time was evidence of oil in the air cleaner, which was completely DRY before.

Now the question: How do I modify my PCV system so it doesn't suck oil? Can I use one at all?
10-13-2012 11:33 AM
1965tripleblack
Quote:
Originally Posted by ssmonty View Post
You wouldn't have to plug the distributor hole or the road draft tube. They should be isolated from the intake ports unless the intake gasket seal to the head is bad, or bad intake valve to seat sealing.
You might want to try removing the distributor and use a piece of hose from the dizzy hole to your ear to listen for leakage after putting compressed air into the carb flange as I described earlier.
There will some leakage past the stem seals. It shouldn't be that much if the clearance between the stems and guides are in spec, and the seals are good.
If you use the same hose or smaller one to get it closer to the seals and hear air you may have found your problem.
I thought the Viton seals were black, but I could be wrong?
ssmonty
You're right. I thought we were talking about pressurizing the crankcase. I may try it with low pressure to avoid passing air thru the valve seals, which are not designed to seal in this type of situation.

IMPORTANT update..................see next post.
10-13-2012 10:12 AM
ssmonty You wouldn't have to plug the distributor hole or the road draft tube. They should be isolated from the intake ports unless the intake gasket seal to the head is bad, or bad intake valve to seat sealing.
You might want to try removing the distributor and use a piece of hose from the dizzy hole to your ear to listen for leakage after putting compressed air into the carb flange as I described earlier.
There will some leakage past the stem seals. It shouldn't be that much if the clearance between the stems and guides are in spec, and the seals are good.
If you use the same hose or smaller one to get it closer to the seals and hear air you may have found your problem.
I thought the Viton seals were black, but I could be wrong?
ssmonty
10-12-2012 04:51 PM
1965tripleblack
Quote:
Originally Posted by ssmonty View Post
You could try backing off the adjustment of all of the intake valves so they are closed. Remove the carb and bolt on a plate to seal the manifold. Remove all vacuum hoses from the manifold and plug all fittings except one(say brake booster port) and connect a hose adapter to an air compressor and listen for air leakage?
Sometimes the rocker studs need sealer on the threads to keep oil from being sucked into the ports.
It really sounds like you need to have the sides of the intake milled to drop it down on the mating surface of the heads. By decking the block that much the bottom of the intake ports are probably too high on the head ports, not giving enough area for the gasket to seal well, letting oil get sucked in from the lifter valley. Engineczar asked how big the gap at the ends of the manifold were(front and back). I bet its lower than normal and will probably need milling as well. A good machine shop should be able to tell how much to mill depending on how much was take off the deck of the block. If you do a search, there are recomendations for the correct amounts to be removed from the sides/bottom of the manifold per amount removed from head/block decks.
Happens all the time.
FWIW
ssmonty
Would also have to remove/plug distributor and road draft tube hole in rear of block (small journal 1965 327 block). Wouldn't pressure leak past the stem seals?
10-12-2012 04:49 PM
1965tripleblack
Quote:
Originally Posted by engineczar View Post
Any reason to not use the FelPro 1206 gasket. It's about 1/32 bigger all the way around so you probably wouldn't have to do any trimming.
The 1206 is too big for the LT1 intake. Sealing beads around ports are outside LT1 ports.
10-12-2012 02:58 PM
ssmonty You could try backing off the adjustment of all of the intake valves so they are closed. Remove the carb and bolt on a plate to seal the manifold. Remove all vacuum hoses from the manifold and plug all fittings except one(say brake booster port) and connect a hose adapter to an air compressor and listen for air leakage?
Sometimes the rocker studs need sealer on the threads to keep oil from being sucked into the ports.
It really sounds like you need to have the sides of the intake milled to drop it down on the mating surface of the heads. By decking the block that much the bottom of the intake ports are probably too high on the head ports, not giving enough area for the gasket to seal well, letting oil get sucked in from the lifter valley. Engineczar asked how big the gap at the ends of the manifold were(front and back). I bet its lower than normal and will probably need milling as well. A good machine shop should be able to tell how much to mill depending on how much was take off the deck of the block. If you do a search, there are recomendations for the correct amounts to be removed from the sides/bottom of the manifold per amount removed from head/block decks.
Happens all the time.
FWIW
ssmonty
10-12-2012 10:05 AM
engineczar Any reason to not use the FelPro 1206 gasket. It's about 1/32 bigger all the way around so you probably wouldn't have to do any trimming.
10-12-2012 09:29 AM
1965tripleblack
Quote:
Originally Posted by engineczar View Post
Which heads are you using? What intake gasket are you using? Also when you assemble it how much gap do you have between the end rails of the block and the intake?
Heads are ProFiler 195's ported to 203, 64cc chambers, angle plugs. Intake is LT1/Z28 dual plane, ported. Using FelPro 1205, which is trimmed to port size. This leaves narrow sealing areas in the gasket and the intake, which was not designed for the larger ports in the head. V E R Y careful alignment required, and it's possible that some areas may be "marginally" sealing due to some areas around ports which are as narrow as 3/16". Very hard for me to determine by eye, so that's why the request for a possible pressure test that can be done.

Block was decked so pistons are .004 above decks (ie: about .030" removed). Have about 1/32" thickness RTV on front/rear block walls, I believe. I did have to elongate manifold bolt holes downward towards valley in order to get bolts threaded into heads. Ports in LT1 are slightly smaller than ports in heads, so manifold ports are completely "within" head ports
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