|10-16-2012 08:15 PM|
after all the sanding n body filler then primer
and after i rolled on the rustoleum black
it came out decent and i almost did the whole car with but way to much work and labor to keep the shine
|10-16-2012 08:09 PM|
some of the misc body work
this was the rust on the hood
the sanding i did on the hood before primer and the rustoleum went on ( this is why the hood has to be completly stripped)
|10-16-2012 08:05 PM|
this is how i got the car
heres the 2 holes i need to fill
the rear quarter panel i need to fix
|10-16-2012 05:37 PM|
You should be OK with 2 + 2 quarts. Have fun and good luck. If I can help or any more questions feel free to ask.
|10-16-2012 05:29 PM|
underside of hatch declid which actually has a plastic cover so only like 1/4 inch around the plastic shows, around the hatch were the rubber seal is , door jambs may pull the panels off the doors so i can get nice color there( also about 1.4 inch around the outsides). engine bay i used rustoleum gloss black and rolled/brushed that on thats going to stay that way. kinda wish i would have done it in flat black though.
reason being is it makes the intercooler and all the nice shiney turbo stuff stand out in the engine bay. hell just about everything on the engine is black except the intake and turbo stuff which follows the blue and silver color theme
and no chrome anywere , lol i dislike chrome
|10-16-2012 05:11 PM|
I have never sprayed Summitt's bc/cc. My experience would be that it would be enough. I've done complete paint jobs in solvent with much, much less than that. It does depend on how well the product covers, but, I'm confident that 1 gallon unreduced would be enough and you should have product left over.
Are you doing a colour change in the doors, engine bay inside trunk?
|10-16-2012 04:36 PM|
thanks for the input and help/suggestions guys , lil latter i will post up some pics of my car so u can see what im working with.
with the 2 tone paint job im assuming 1gallon pre mix is way over kill for each color
do u guys think that 2 quarts( before mixing) of each color would be enough?
that alone would cut the paint cost in half
|10-16-2012 04:23 PM|
|10-16-2012 03:58 PM|
|10-16-2012 03:49 PM|
|69 widetrack||Talk to your friend, If he can spray single stage he can paint base clear. The base goes on easy, just get coverage and be sure to let it flash, The clear goes on like single stage, put it on the way you want it to look.|
|10-16-2012 03:18 PM|
well if the single stage stuff could come out pretty nice with the clear i was considering going that route.
i need to talk to my friend and see if he can spray the bc/cc, i know hes done alot of single stage stuff, and ive seen his truck and some other cars hes painted and they all came out nice. not to sure if he does the bc/cc stuff but will find out
money is a lil tight but if the bc/cc will have that much more of an advantage save an extra week or 2 to get the bc/cc but it still depends on what my friend can spray for me
|10-16-2012 03:06 PM|
Your repairs on the recesses should be fine, just prime and block and your ready for paint.
You can't buff single stage metallics, however, you should be able to buff the clear that you put over top your singles stage metallics. I would check with the Summit spec sheets to verify that the clear can be buffed. Some poly-urethane clears can be difficult to cut and buff. If they are difficult or not recommended to buff reconsider the base clear route. Yes it does cost more but, ease of repair and for $100-$150 dollars more??? Maybe not the time to be worried about saving a few bucks, just my opinion. As you said your going to keep the car for a long time, what another few dollars now?
|10-16-2012 01:33 PM|
what would be the best way to repair the 2 3/8's holes in the decklid ??? the decklid is steel i might even have some pictures of the holes laying around in my photobucket i can post if needed
the emblem recesses were filled with fiberglass resin, i drilled 3 hole sin each recess and then used some balsa wood on the backside to make a slight standoff of the back of the ground effect pieces, then covered with ducktape to allow a smal cavity for the resin to go and form behind the recess to help it hold in place. once the resin dried i removed the tape and chipped off the balsa wood .
after that i used a skim coat of body filler to make it perfectly flush
these are the 2 paints i had planed on using, the combo pack with the activtor and everything else thats needed is 118$'s per color for 1 gallon each before mixing
this is the silver
Summit Racing SUM-CSUMUP307 - Summit Racing Equipment® Acrylic Urethane Paint Combos - Overview - SummitRacing.com
and this is the blue
Summit Racing SUM-CSUMUP309 - Summit Racing Equipment® Acrylic Urethane Paint Combos - Overview - SummitRacing.com
so say 250$'s in paint
just noticed they do have a high solids clear coat for the single stage paint
60$'s for one gallon
Summit Racing SUM-UP200 - Summit Racing® High-Solids Single Stage Clear Coat - Overview - SummitRacing.com
if i were to go bc/cc each gallon kit ( all needed stuff ) runs about 160 bucks per gallon of each
so say about 350$'s without the clear
and if this is the right clear its 62$'s a gallon
so about 450 in supplies to do a bc/cc
+ andother 24$ for the clear coat activator.hardner
now that i found that single stage clear i have another question ,
with the single stage clear would i be able to cut and buff those single stage metalic paints?
|10-15-2012 09:21 PM|
Fibreglass can suck up paint, resin itself is less porous. I would still recommend a catalysed primer over any repair, it helps to give you a more consistent sub-straight (the paint on your car is catalysed and the catalyst in primer is more like the catalyst in the paint on your car).
make sure that the rusted areas are treated properly before top coating, in this order (clean, metal prep, etch or epoxy primer and a catalysed primer).
Tack welding a plate to cover the holes from the previous spoiler and filling them isn't the best way to go, remember if you tack plates from underneath you will have burn spots on the top of your deck lid where you welded the plate. If you go this route, use a metal of the same gauge as your deck lid, anything thicker will require more heat for the weld to penetrate and you stand a greater risk of warping the deck lid. If your not confident in welding the holes, the tacking method would work.
Single stage metallics generally do not have the same gloss and for sure not the same depth as a base clear paint job. Metallics in single stage lay closer to the surface of the paint and are subject to fading and oxidization. Like I mentioned in my last post, if you get a run, dirt, dry spray, orange peel or any defect in the paint it is virtually impossible to repair without repainting. Most of the defects that I mentioned can be fixed by sanding and polishing. Not to mention the depth and quality of finish you can achieve with base clear.
Any other question, happy to help.
|10-15-2012 08:32 PM|
the emblem rescesses are molded into the ground effect pieces form the factory,tyhey are some sort of fiberglass/plastic material, most ppl who do fill them do use fiberglass resin to do so.
i was told fiberglass sucks up paint so it would need more coats or u would be able to see were the fiberglass is , is this true ?
all the rust is surface rust and there isnt much of it , reason i have to strip the hood and trunk is i had applied the rustomleum with the roller method to both panels , they are both getting stripped to bare metal.
the worst body repair i have to make is were the previous owner drilled 2 holes in the rear decklid to replace the factory spoiler with one off a firebird .
im going to tack in some filler plates just below the surface then cover with bondo and sand smooth. shoudl be fairly easy as i can acess the back side of the panel
i could prolly close the holes up with my mig welder but id be afriad of the heat form welding and grinding it flat would warp the panel
what could i expect the finish of a metalic single stage paint to come out like?
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