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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-26-2012 08:41 PM
F-BIRD'88 The isky 278H mega cam will not work well with a stock converter.
You would want to keep the high stall converter, with that cam.
I would not go less than a 3.55 gear, with that cam (your car is light and will take that well)
But keep the hi stall.

If you are going to go all the way down to a 3.08 from 4.11 and change the converter too
to a low stall then change the cam too, to something like what I suggested.
1. the car will be a lot more civil in traffic.
2. better on gas.
3. the power band will be right where you will use it with 3.08's and a low stall.
Getting the cam just right to suit how you want to drive your car is critical.
10-26-2012 12:28 PM
vinniekq2 what a solid cam will do is let you keep the power AND get it sooner and smoother.I used a solid cam years ago(sig erson high flow II solid) it had a mild idle and pulled off idle to 6200.Maybe someone in the forum has specs on it?
was listed as maybe 288 duration and 500 lift.get something like that.It was around 028 lash so valve lift was 460 ish. get a modern version like that and you will be surprised how mellow it is and I remember shifting at 7k from first to second as it comes up fast in the lower gears.My friend had the same cam in his 57 belair except hydraulic,high flow II and it fell off a lot sooner.I think it was .490 lift and had a rougher idle.
Adjusting valves takes 30 minutes after you have done it twice.The first time takes a lot longer.
10-26-2012 12:04 PM
V8 Super Beetle
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
If you use a flat tappet cam,at least use a solid.better idle and they make power over a wider range.If you want a built in rev limiter,use a flat tappet hydraulic.Another user that builds engines uses a flat hydraulic motor for customers that over rev or abuse engines,it just keeps them limited
Thanks Vinnie. Although, I like the "set it and forget" aspect of hydraulic cams. I'm not after ever ounce of power. I'm actually going the other way.
10-26-2012 11:44 AM
vinniekq2 If you use a flat tappet cam,at least use a solid.better idle and they make power over a wider range.If you want a built in rev limiter,use a flat tappet hydraulic.Another user that builds engines uses a flat hydraulic motor for customers that over rev or abuse engines,it just keeps them limited
10-26-2012 11:02 AM
V8 Super Beetle
Quote:
Originally Posted by hcompton View Post
i like a few of there cams they use some good old grinds that work well. but with all the problems i have read about I have been tunred off. But may give them a try on my next cheap build current engines cost to much to test an unknown cam.

I would put the 3.08 gears in with the 2400 stall should be fine. last time you tried the gears it was with the stock converter? 2400 should help alot over the stock stall. 3.73 and 3.55 would still be better.
It was even pulling the 2400 stall.
10-26-2012 10:48 AM
hcompton
Quote:
Originally Posted by V8 Super Beetle View Post
From what I've read after a quick search, is that it's been a problem of improper break-in procedure or someone reinstalling a used cam, mismatching the lifters, and running them without any kind of break-in procedure. In other words, user error. I currently have summit lifters on the isky cam in my engine with zero problems.

Heck, the paint on my car is Summit paint. Looks great and is holding up well when done right.
i like a few of there cams they use some good old grinds that work well. but with all the problems i have read about I have been tunred off. But may give them a try on my next cheap build current engines cost to much to test an unknown cam.

I would put the 3.08 gears in with the 2400 stall should be fine. last time you tried the gears it was with the stock converter? 2400 should help alot over the stock stall. 3.73 and 3.55 would still be better.
10-26-2012 09:49 AM
V8 Super Beetle
Quote:
Originally Posted by hcompton View Post
The summit cam: one search onthe internet for wiped summit cams and they dont look as cheap. That being said i do see ppl running them.
From what I've read after a quick search, is that it's been a problem of improper break-in procedure or someone reinstalling a used cam, mismatching the lifters, and running them without any kind of break-in procedure. In other words, user error. I currently have summit lifters on the isky cam in my engine with zero problems.

Heck, the paint on my car is Summit paint. Looks great and is holding up well when done right.
10-26-2012 09:17 AM
V8 Super Beetle
Quote:
Originally Posted by hcompton View Post
Sweet ride looks cool.

Have you tried giving it a little less gear with the cam you have. Since your going to change the gears anyway.

Four speed auto trans would solve alot of your issues. And let you keep the cam that works. No room in the tunnel?

The summit cam: one search onthe internet for wiped summit cams and they dont look as cheap. That being said i do see ppl running them. But i think the advertised duration here is trying to help you out. 274 By letting you know its going to drive like a big cam sep it will fall on its face just when the other cam was setting you back in your seat. Still bad idle still will need gears. You would be better with a longer duration and wider lobe center. Idle would smooth out and off idle power would come back so gears could be changed to a much lower set. I have seen a cam with these specs before and it was the wild racing cam for stock heads back in the day. Sounded good but boring power. Often sold as 3/4 race cam to ppl that dont know any better.

I would call comp and have them run the numbers on a nice roller for the car. With smooth idle and good power. You will be on the phone for an hour but will be worth it. A cam considered strong for efi car my be the best bet.

Either you will make power with crazy idle or smooth and less power. Not much way to make a cam sound big and still be streetable.

Hyd flat tappet Have you looked at the Comp thumpr cams they will still need some gear and idle is bad but may be more of what will work with your ride. They also are fast not just poorly timed. But many ppl think they are crap. So who knows. Llight car and gears it will be right where its made to be with 3.73-3.08
Thanks! A roller cam would be nice, and I love the sound of them but for now, I'm going to stick with a flat tappet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
I would change the cam to a summit cam #1103 if you want to use a stock 2100 stall 12" converter and
drop the gears down.
214-224-.442-.465 112 LSA good idle, good fuel mileage, good cruise, good power right from idle to 5500 rpm.

You will find this much more civil in daily driving yest makes very good power when you rug it.
Fine with a stock converter. 3.08 to 3.55 gears are fine in your light car.
The car is light weight . Its still going to GLH.

I had this cam in my 350 vortec motor with 3.42's. Its a nice cam that works well.
How you design your exhaust system makes a big difference in how you enjoy driving the car.
I spent quite a bit of time doing mine. The mufflers are custom home hand built. The overall result was very good.
makes power yet doesn't drone or get old.

I agree with the other poster. Try just reducing the gear ratio, first. Your car is very light.
Then if you decide you also want a tamer more civil camshaft try a similar Isky cam #201264/271-12 "264/270 Mega Hyd"
Isky cams and lifters are high quality. This cam will still make a ton of power and torque in your V8 bug.
And cruise a lot more civil. 264/270 214-221@.050" .450"-.465" 112LSA
Thanks for the suggestion. I've tried my current cam with a stock stall and 3.08 gears when I first got her running. I didn't quite like how it wanted to pull me through stop lights. With manual brakes, I really had to hold it down and fight the car. It still did GLH though even with that setup. It would throw me back in the seat and light em up just by stomping on it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Did you ever get a track time slip on this car?
What is the rear tire diameter?

When you drive on the hiway, what speed do you drive at?
Unfortunately, I've yet to take it to the track. One of the reasons for wanting to tame it down and turn it into a weekend cruiser.

I don't have a speedo in the car, so I'm not sure how fast I'm going at freeway speeds. I do know the engine RPMs are screaming at freeway speeds though.

Rear tires are 275/60/15.
10-26-2012 07:52 AM
ap72
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
where are the specs for the "big" cam? and I dont like hydraulics cams but sounds like a small hydraulic roller would be perfect for you. 225 duration at 50 is very mild,480 to 510 lift.move the icl and lda around for sound and rpm range wanted
234/234 @.050", .450/.450 lift, 106lsa
10-25-2012 10:00 PM
vinniekq2 If you took it to a drag strip,include MPH as that is more important than E.T.
10-25-2012 09:35 PM
F-BIRD'88 Did you ever get a track time slip on this car?
What is the rear tire diameter?

When you drive on the hiway, what speed do you drive at?
10-25-2012 09:33 PM
vinniekq2 where are the specs for the "big" cam? and I dont like hydraulics cams but sounds like a small hydraulic roller would be perfect for you. 225 duration at 50 is very mild,480 to 510 lift.move the icl and lda around for sound and rpm range wanted
10-25-2012 09:15 PM
F-BIRD'88 I would change the cam to a summit cam #1103 if you want to use a stock 2100 stall 12" converter and
drop the gears down.
214-224-.442-.465 112 LSA good idle, good fuel mileage, good cruise, good power right from idle to 5500 rpm.

You will find this much more civil in daily driving yest makes very good power when you rug it.
Fine with a stock converter. 3.08 to 3.55 gears are fine in your light car.
The car is light weight . Its still going to GLH.

I had this cam in my 350 vortec motor with 3.42's. Its a nice cam that works well.
How you design your exhaust system makes a big difference in how you enjoy driving the car.
I spent quite a bit of time doing mine. The mufflers are custom home hand built. The overall result was very good.
makes power yet doesn't drone or get old.

I agree with the other poster. Try just reducing the gear ratio, first. Your car is very light.
Then if you decide you also want a tamer more civil camshaft try a similar Isky cam #201264/271-12 "264/270 Mega Hyd"
Isky cams and lifters are high quality. This cam will still make a ton of power and torque in your V8 bug.
And cruise a lot more civil. 264/270 214-221@.050" .450"-.465" 112LSA
10-25-2012 05:22 PM
ap72
Quote:
Originally Posted by hcompton View Post
Properly chosen roller can help alot in this case. But i usally suggest flat tappets.

The cam i herd on the video had a very clear lope as it went off idle. That will happen in gear and cause the problem he is trying to solve. Smooth low rpm will only come from less overlap. At 106 lobe center its going to be aLmost as ruff as what he has just more violent when it bumps in gear with more low rpm torque. Current cam is tight lobe center as well. Its going to have many of the same idle and more importantly off idle problems. Maybe some one can explain lobe center a little better its not only about duration. Longer duration with a 110 lobe center could run very smooth and still run off good numbers at the track. i am not making suggestions as this could be a tuff one to get right. Rather than throw out WAG's.

FYI i love big cams i would keep it and change out the trans to work with the gears. I am not a trans guy but i think the th700r4 can have 1.1 or better final ratio and support the correct gears. The ratios can be changed to allow it to run the 1/4 in the first three and drop low rpm in fourth. But may still bump and chunk at 55 mph if you go to far. You can also get a lock up clutch that can help with the change to high at street legal speeds.

Thats my 2 cents. Best of both worlds always cost the most. Lol its the hotrod equation. Mo money...
you really don't understand how duration and LSA work do you?

the 234/234 cam he currently uses has 22 of overlap. The 218/218 cam he is considering has 6 that difference is huge. when it comes to street manners that's one of the most important numbers. FWIW the voodoo 268 cam- a very often used hot street cam has 10 degrees of overlap. This cam is actually milder than a VooDoo 268.
10-25-2012 04:47 PM
hcompton
Quote:
Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
I agree a roller is better, but adv. duration tells you absolutely nothing, especially on cams like these. Also you state it will drive like a big cam but will fall flat? meaning you have no idea what it'll do? Then go on to suggest a bigger cam but with a wider LSA- to help make it more driveable?

Truth be told this cam will idle just like in the videos and produce a torque peak right around 4,000 rpm, peak power on a 383 will probably come in at about 5300rpm-ish. This cam is probably about the best "cheap cam" for mid range torque and a rough idle.

218 is NOT a big cam- not by any means.

I would not be surprised at all is this combo produced over 450ftlb on your 383 but only about 400hp peak(flywheel)- the torque is going to kick in hard right after your stall locks in.
Properly chosen roller can help alot in this case. But i usally suggest flat tappets.

The cam i herd on the video had a very clear lope as it went off idle. That will happen in gear and cause the problem he is trying to solve. Smooth low rpm will only come from less overlap. At 106 lobe center its going to be aLmost as ruff as what he has just more violent when it bumps in gear with more low rpm torque. Current cam is tight lobe center as well. Its going to have many of the same idle and more importantly off idle problems. Maybe some one can explain lobe center a little better its not only about duration. Longer duration with a 110 lobe center could run very smooth and still run off good numbers at the track. i am not making suggestions as this could be a tuff one to get right. Rather than throw out WAG's.

FYI i love big cams i would keep it and change out the trans to work with the gears. I am not a trans guy but i think the th700r4 can have 1.1 or better final ratio and support the correct gears. The ratios can be changed to allow it to run the 1/4 in the first three and drop low rpm in fourth. But may still bump and chunk at 55 mph if you go to far. You can also get a lock up clutch that can help with the change to high at street legal speeds.

Thats my 2 cents. Best of both worlds always cost the most. Lol its the hotrod equation. Mo money...
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