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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-17-2012 08:32 AM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by Camaro_Nut2001 View Post
Got the motor and trans out tonight and I've got to make an appointment with the eye doctor ASAP. The casting number is "3956618" and the number stamped on the front pad is "V0331HN" which is showing up as a 1969 350 300HP passenger car. Also, it doesn't have a steel crank like I originally thought when looking at the end of the crank while under the S10. Even though it's not a 302, it's found it's home till I leave this world. The heads are "186". I also thought it looked like it had never been opened up but after gettin it out so I could really look at it I think with 98% certainty that it has been opened up. I didn't pull the pan, just one valve cover as my body was really going down on me fast. I'm taking tomorrow to myself and spend the day riding in my Impala so hopefully Monday I can get back at it. I wish everyone a very happy Thanksgiving.
The heads are likely original to the engine. It was rated at 10.25:1 CR but the actual CR is prolly in the 10:1 range. Give or take.
11-17-2012 07:21 AM
hcompton
Quote:
Originally Posted by Camaro_Nut2001 View Post
Well, I have to say, I don't think I will ever go back to Flowmaster mufflers, lol. I took my Impala to my buddy and had new pipes and the Magnaflows put on yesterday and I am completely amazed at how the motor reacts. It is sooo much happier. He went with 2.0" pipe off the original manifolds, I chose to stick with the ram horns for the look, into 2.5" to the mufflers, which are right past the transmission crossmember, then came off the mufflers with 3" pipe turned and exists in front of the rear tires but even with the bottom body lip. Not only does the exhaust look good, it is still pretty quiet inside the car, at idle and slow acceleration, lol. When I was leaving his shop I kinda got in it a little and when the stall flashed it got a little squirlley. With a 3.42 gear! I'm going to put a 3.73 or maybe a 3.90 gear in when I get these S10's finished. The Magnaflows are a little loud when I throw the gas to her, but hey, it's Hot Roddin!
The 2 " pipes might of had a lot to do with the pickup in tq. Some flowmaster systems are made for racing and flow dam clsoe to open headers. But in the real world with mild build 2" pipes will usally give a nice low end punch. The short runs you have are probably the best of both worlds. The flowmaster system i had was great but was built for a big motor and drag race application. For a street 350 it might have been a little too big. And it was 2 1/2 duals to the rear bumper. With 40 series mufflers. Also very loud but that was what i asked for when i was buying it.
11-16-2012 10:16 PM
Camaro_Nut2001 Got the motor and trans out tonight and I've got to make an appointment with the eye doctor ASAP. The casting number is "3956618" and the number stamped on the front pad is "V0331HN" which is showing up as a 1969 350 300HP passenger car. Also, it doesn't have a steel crank like I originally thought when looking at the end of the crank while under the S10. Even though it's not a 302, it's found it's home till I leave this world. The heads are "186". I also thought it looked like it had never been opened up but after gettin it out so I could really look at it I think with 98% certainty that it has been opened up. I didn't pull the pan, just one valve cover as my body was really going down on me fast. I'm taking tomorrow to myself and spend the day riding in my Impala so hopefully Monday I can get back at it. I wish everyone a very happy Thanksgiving.
11-15-2012 08:11 AM
Camaro_Nut2001 Well, I have to say, I don't think I will ever go back to Flowmaster mufflers, lol. I took my Impala to my buddy and had new pipes and the Magnaflows put on yesterday and I am completely amazed at how the motor reacts. It is sooo much happier. He went with 2.0" pipe off the original manifolds, I chose to stick with the ram horns for the look, into 2.5" to the mufflers, which are right past the transmission crossmember, then came off the mufflers with 3" pipe turned and exists in front of the rear tires but even with the bottom body lip. Not only does the exhaust look good, it is still pretty quiet inside the car, at idle and slow acceleration, lol. When I was leaving his shop I kinda got in it a little and when the stall flashed it got a little squirlley. With a 3.42 gear! I'm going to put a 3.73 or maybe a 3.90 gear in when I get these S10's finished. The Magnaflows are a little loud when I throw the gas to her, but hey, it's Hot Roddin!
11-14-2012 12:43 PM
496CHEVY3100 camaronut if you run the 400 block be sure to lay a 400 gasket on the head you decide to run an drill the steam hole 3/16 in replacement head 2 per side this will keep it from overheating i ran these blocks for years on dirt track late model modified with good results i would buy 2 bolt blocks drill for 4 bolt sprayed caps 2 bolt blocks worked good for us factorf 4 bolt 400 castihg 509 and 511 seemed to crack in main webs if tou can find a 4wd blazer block without center freeze plugs that is the best block we have foubd hopes this helps
11-14-2012 12:53 AM
cobalt327 Using 1/8 turn gives less clearance for the lifters to pump up. In most cases where the engine is equipped w/the right springs and the engine isn't over revved, there's no advantage over using 1/2 turn- which is what I (and your Dad) recommend you use.

The possible problem w/using a small preload or zero lashing the lifters is that it gives the chance for the lifter inner plunger to contact the retainer. Most lifters use round wire retainer clips (center and right, below); these can be driven out of their grooves allowing the lifter to come apart under severe conditions, like when the lifter pumps up. Lifters designed to be zero lashed and solid lifters will use an internal C-clip type retainer (below left).

From here:
11-13-2012 08:26 PM
Camaro_Nut2001
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
For someone who was injured a while back, you sure get a lot done. Makes me kind of embarrassed! lol

Not speaking for TI but you can use 1/8 turn on flat tappet hydraulic lifters.

A page he wrote is here. Not sure how it happened but there's another one here. Chances are the second article was added w/o knowledge there was one already started.

Adjusting the valves w/the engine running is also a very good, foolproof way to do it, but they have to be adjusted at least close enough that the engine will run w/o popping through the carb or backfiring, etc.

Adjusting valves w/the engine running leaves no doubt when there is clearance and when zero lash is reached- the sounds are unmistakeable. Only thing about doing it w/the engine running is it can be messy. To help w/the oil spraying/splashing around, an old valve cover can be modified by cutting the top out of it (see below, photo from member Double_v23). This keeps most of the oil where it belongs. There are also small clips sold to clip onto stamped steel (stock type) rockers that deflect the oil, but those alone can still let oil splash around some. Using both should stop 90% of it, though.

Lol, I try my very best to do everything I can. I have old computer chairs in the garage so I can roll around. I had my garage built to accomodate me with my condition, not to mention I use a cane where ever I go unless it's the rod runs, car shows etc.... then I use my scooter. My passion has always been older Chevy's and as long as I can possibly figure a way, I will be doing all I can with them. For instance, I use my cherry picker to not only pull motors but, change heads, BBC cast intakes and some SBC cast ones, radiators etc... Enough about me, lol, but thank you. What is the benefit of going an 1/8th of a turn opposed to say 1/4 or a 1/2? My Dad used to go no more than a half a turn, he said the less you can get by with and still open the valves with little to no noise the better as your motor is alot free'er, revs faster which in turn, get's you down the track quicker. He actually show'ed me when I was probably 12- 13yrs. old. He let me adjust the valves the way the manual called for and my Auto Mechanics teacher in school was teaching us, let me rev it and drive it, then he adjusted them with me watching and sure enough, the motor seemed happier and reved alot quicker. I go by feel to zero lash and depending on the motor, fresh or high miles, go 1/4 to 1/2 a turn. Thanks for the link to Tech's write up.
11-13-2012 10:44 AM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by Camaro_Nut2001 View Post
Well, it's been a few days but I got the Impala back together, new cam broke in etc... I didn't go back with the Tunnel Ram, due to the Impala having to be outside while I pull the motor in the S10, I went with an old intake and carb I had put back, a Stealth and 670 Street Avenger. I figured the motor would really have some bottem end but I swear, I think it ran better with the Tunnel Ram and two 1850's. I do think the motor is running on the lean side with the 670. I have the timing turned down just a tad and the 670 adjusted rich as I can untill I get a 4779 built for it. I have the kit but I want to get this motor out first, lol. Also, I bought a pair of Magnaflow's #10416 as I read they flow alot better than Flowmaster, which is what's on the Impala now, but haven't had time to have exhaust put on yet. I do have the S10 in the garage and plan on starting on it today.
On a side note, I saw a post where Tech Inspector was talking about going an 1/8th of a turn after zero lash on valve adjustment but the OP was talking about his hyd. roller lifters. I wonder if Tech was meaning an 1/8th turn on all hyd. lifters or just rollers. I may post back on that posting and ask, unless he see's this, lol. Anyway, I will post pictures of the motor when I get it out and cleaned up.
For someone who was injured a while back, you sure get a lot done. Makes me kind of embarrassed! lol

Not speaking for TI but you can use 1/8 turn on flat tappet hydraulic lifters.

A page he wrote is here. Not sure how it happened but there's another one here. Chances are the second article was added w/o knowledge there was one already started.

Adjusting the valves w/the engine running is also a very good, foolproof way to do it, but they have to be adjusted at least close enough that the engine will run w/o popping through the carb or backfiring, etc.

Adjusting valves w/the engine running leaves no doubt when there is clearance and when zero lash is reached- the sounds are unmistakeable. Only thing about doing it w/the engine running is it can be messy. To help w/the oil spraying/splashing around, an old valve cover can be modified by cutting the top out of it (see below, photo from member Double_v23). This keeps most of the oil where it belongs. There are also small clips sold to clip onto stamped steel (stock type) rockers that deflect the oil, but those alone can still let oil splash around some. Using both should stop 90% of it, though.

11-13-2012 07:38 AM
Camaro_Nut2001 Well, it's been a few days but I got the Impala back together, new cam broke in etc... I didn't go back with the Tunnel Ram, due to the Impala having to be outside while I pull the motor in the S10, I went with an old intake and carb I had put back, a Stealth and 670 Street Avenger. I figured the motor would really have some bottem end but I swear, I think it ran better with the Tunnel Ram and two 1850's. I do think the motor is running on the lean side with the 670. I have the timing turned down just a tad and the 670 adjusted rich as I can untill I get a 4779 built for it. I have the kit but I want to get this motor out first, lol. Also, I bought a pair of Magnaflow's #10416 as I read they flow alot better than Flowmaster, which is what's on the Impala now, but haven't had time to have exhaust put on yet. I do have the S10 in the garage and plan on starting on it today.
On a side note, I saw a post where Tech Inspector was talking about going an 1/8th of a turn after zero lash on valve adjustment but the OP was talking about his hyd. roller lifters. I wonder if Tech was meaning an 1/8th turn on all hyd. lifters or just rollers. I may post back on that posting and ask, unless he see's this, lol. Anyway, I will post pictures of the motor when I get it out and cleaned up.
11-06-2012 08:09 AM
Camaro_Nut2001
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
I agree w/Vinnie- if that block isn't a restamp and has the original suffix code, etc. on the pad (which would indicate the decks haven't been cut much, if at all), and if it has a standard bore, you have got yourself a heck of a find!!! Even if it's been bored, killer deal!

Because the guy you bought it from made no big deal out of it being a DZ block, likely no one made a big deal to him about it when he bought it- so either it's gonna be a legit block or a really obvious restamp.

Factory suffix codes have the digits/letters evenly spaced and look uniform because of being 'gang stamped' instead of each digit being individually stamped, and none are higher or lower than the digit next to it. A really obvious restamp, complete w/punch marks all over the area AND two different styles of the number "1", is at the bottom of this post. Also the partial VIN code line of digits that usually accompanies the suffix line is the same way- but the two lines are almost never even to each other because they are stamped at different times/places.

I'm sure you'll be researching this to the n'th degree, I hope that it's legit and that you got an early Christmas present!!

Thanks for the kind words. I'm gonna pull the motor and trans just as soon as I get my Impala back together, I'm shooting for next week lol. I will be able to get a better look at the stamping that way. I had never thought about someone restamping a block. I'm keeping my fingers crossed and will post a picture of the stamping when I get it out and cleaned up better. Some people amaze me at how they can come up with a way to get over on people. I spent about all day on my Impala yesterday. Got almost down to pulling the cam when my body stopped going. I'm going to try to get the cam out and everything cleaned today but I just have to see how my body does. The new cam is suppose to be here today. See, I'm disabled, I had a 5000lb. forklift fall on me June 13 2007, I was a mechanic for a forklift repair company, and I'm only able to do so much BUT, I am so very thankful the good Lord let's me do what I am able to do. I take one day at a time and try and make the best out of my situation as I could be in a heck of alot worse shape, plus, I love wrenchin, lol.
11-06-2012 07:49 AM
Camaro_Nut2001
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
nice score,havent seen many DZ blocks,hope its still standard bore.probably make some money on it
It looks to be like it's all still stock, never opened up and if it has been it's been awhile. I won't sell it as I try to save as much old chevy stuff as I can. I plan on leaving each one of my nephews, I have 3, a "60's model GM car or truck and they can split all the goodies I have collected. I have built my oldest nephews truck, he is 5yrs. old, 1969 SWB .040 over flat top 454, the engine in it is my avatar. My 1968 Impala I'm building is for the middle one, 3 yrs. old. I have been looking for a '68-'69 Nova to build for the youngest, almost 2 yrs. old.
11-05-2012 05:21 AM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by Camaro_Nut2001 View Post
WOW! Thanks alot for the links and the advice. You are exactly right on the costs involved and I am finding the reasons Dad did alot of things the older I get. I think one of my buddy's is gonna do a motor job for me as it's gonna take me a little bit before I will have my garage freed up. I did find out something today that I still can't believe, lol. I have a 1969 DZ302! A few months ago I bought a square body S10 off a young feller just for the motor and trans. He had wrecked it pretty bad, wiped the whole right side out and bent the frame a little, and was gonna crush it. It has a " '69 model 350 in it with double humps" he said. Well, after looking at it and hearing it run, I bought it. I have quite a collection of older Chevy parts and try to save everything I can from the crusher that is GM plus I wanted the drivetrain and motor for another project I have lined up. Long story short I got the truck where I felt it was safe to take a short drive, after I got it home, and got in it a little and thought, man, this thing does have the power for a stock 350 that had who knows how many miles on it as it has never been apart from what I can tell. So today I jacked her up and got under and looked and sure enough, it has a completely round end on the crank. You know what that means, steel crank! So I finally got myself up from underneath, grabbed a rag, brass brisltled carb cleaning brush and some purple power and cleaned the pad off on the front right side of the block. Guess what, last 2 digits are DZ!! I can't believe it. I have never actually seen one in person much less owned one. Tomorrow before I start on the Impala I'm draining the old anti-freeze out and puttin new in for winter. I'm not taking any chances, I never do with anything anyway when it comes to a motor freezing, but it makes me feel good to know that it will feel better with fresh coolant, oil and a Wix filter, lol. I feel like a big ole kid right now.
I agree w/Vinnie- if that block isn't a restamp and has the original suffix code, etc. on the pad (which would indicate the decks haven't been cut much, if at all), and if it has a standard bore, you have got yourself a heck of a find!!! Even if it's been bored, killer deal!

Because the guy you bought it from made no big deal out of it being a DZ block, likely no one made a big deal to him about it when he bought it- so either it's gonna be a legit block or a really obvious restamp.

Factory suffix codes have the digits/letters evenly spaced and look uniform because of being 'gang stamped' instead of each digit being individually stamped, and none are higher or lower than the digit next to it. A really obvious restamp, complete w/punch marks all over the area AND two different styles of the number "1", is at the bottom of this post. Also the partial VIN code line of digits that usually accompanies the suffix line is the same way- but the two lines are almost never even to each other because they are stamped at different times/places.

I'm sure you'll be researching this to the n'th degree, I hope that it's legit and that you got an early Christmas present!!

11-04-2012 11:38 PM
vinniekq2 nice score,havent seen many DZ blocks,hope its still standard bore.probably make some money on it
11-04-2012 11:07 PM
Camaro_Nut2001
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
There's a reason your Father had the opinions he did on these things- and you are wise to follow his lead on such matters. I cannot help but think you've chosen the best and safest path. When the cost associated w/changing the cam and lifters now is compared to the possible costs involved w/chancing it, the choice becomes even more clear IMHO.

Some good info on breaking in a flat tappet cam along w/other tips, etc, can be read here.

Additional info you might find useful:

Adjusting hydraulic lifters

Valve train points to check

Good luck.
WOW! Thanks alot for the links and the advice. You are exactly right on the costs involved and I am finding the reasons Dad did alot of things the older I get. I think one of my buddy's is gonna do a motor job for me as it's gonna take me a little bit before I will have my garage freed up. I did find out something today that I still can't believe, lol. I have a 1969 DZ302! A few months ago I bought a square body S10 off a young feller just for the motor and trans. He had wrecked it pretty bad, wiped the whole right side out and bent the frame a little, and was gonna crush it. It has a " '69 model 350 in it with double humps" he said. Well, after looking at it and hearing it run, I bought it. I have quite a collection of older Chevy parts and try to save everything I can from the crusher that is GM plus I wanted the drivetrain and motor for another project I have lined up. Long story short I got the truck where I felt it was safe to take a short drive, after I got it home, and got in it a little and thought, man, this thing does have the power for a stock 350 that had who knows how many miles on it as it has never been apart from what I can tell. So today I jacked her up and got under and looked and sure enough, it has a completely round end on the crank. You know what that means, steel crank! So I finally got myself up from underneath, grabbed a rag, brass brisltled carb cleaning brush and some purple power and cleaned the pad off on the front right side of the block. Guess what, last 2 digits are DZ!! I can't believe it. I have never actually seen one in person much less owned one. Tomorrow before I start on the Impala I'm draining the old anti-freeze out and puttin new in for winter. I'm not taking any chances, I never do with anything anyway when it comes to a motor freezing, but it makes me feel good to know that it will feel better with fresh coolant, oil and a Wix filter, lol. I feel like a big ole kid right now.
11-04-2012 08:04 PM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by Camaro_Nut2001 View Post
Well, now you got me nervous, lol. I'm pulling it back down and replacing the cam. What I mean by the 4 bad lifters is they wouldn't open the valves all the way, like they weren't getting oil and pumping up or something but they were getting oil and lots of it. I took 2 of em apart just to verify. I checked all the cam lobes with my dial indicator and they are all checking good, turned the motor over 2 revolutions. Shined a light through the lifter bores and all the lobes look like they broke in great. I just took it as a bad batch of lifters. I'm ordering a new cam this morning. I've thought, well, what would dad have done and it came to me, heck, he would have pulled the whole motor down "just to be on the safe side" as he would say, lol. I really need the space in my garage pretty quick but I also really really need the little money in my wallet not to mention wasting my parts.
There's a reason your Father had the opinions he did on these things- and you are wise to follow his lead on such matters. I cannot help but think you've chosen the best and safest path. When the cost associated w/changing the cam and lifters now is compared to the possible costs involved w/chancing it, the choice becomes even more clear IMHO.

Some good info on breaking in a flat tappet cam along w/other tips, etc, can be read here.

Additional info you might find useful:

Adjusting hydraulic lifters

Valve train points to check

Good luck.
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