|11-14-2012 10:41 PM|
|tech69||If it's really dry you might find it better to just repaint. There might not be enough clear on it to sand enough out to make it look decent but you'll never know until you try. I would start any sanding on the panel in those areas first so if you burn thru you didn't waste a second longer on it to get to that conclusion. I also find that when buffing over an area that has more peel than the rest of the car it's more work buffing getting it to look right as oppposed to just cutting it even to begin with, and with dry spray, in most cases, you have to decide where to "live with it" cause you're most likely not gonna cut the dry spray as even as the rest of the car so the final nod of approval is in buff on that one cause you'll be cutting the rest down with the buffer and eye balling it til it's passable. This my friend is living on the edge and you never feel good about doing it cause if you get away with it, how much is left to actually protect the car from the elements?|
|11-14-2012 05:45 AM|
|jamesrr||I know what you mean, if I ever finish my mercury I probably won't keep it long, I would not want to put any miles on it. I also have a 85 el camino with a 454 in it, thats my driver.|
|11-13-2012 08:31 PM|
None of them ever end... lol. and thats a good thing I know when I got my Nova "done" for the second time, it was kind of a letdown...like, ok, what do i do now? kind of thing. I dont like to concentrate on getting something done, I just love all the details of the process as its going on (when things go right anyway!!)
|11-13-2012 07:15 PM|
And hopefully it never will, labor of love.
|11-13-2012 07:06 PM|
|jamesrr||Thanks for the info guys, I live in Goochland county. I have been working on my fifty mercury for years, it never ends.|
|11-13-2012 06:39 PM|
You can most definately sand them out and polish them. Start sanding the dry spray areas with a bout 1000 grit wet paper on a soft block. When it dries and you don't see any shiny spots in the dry spray sanded area move up to 1500 grit, and i even go finer like 2000. If you go 2000 you could hand polish it with a medium coarse compound and move up with a fine come from there. It's a little time consuming but the results will be to your liking. If you wish you could finish polishing with a final lite cut polish and glaze. This will be your preference.
Hope this helps.
|11-13-2012 06:38 PM|
Dry spray areas are a biitch, but you can sand and buff them out provided there is enough material on the car.
You can never have too many lights for sure!!
HEY, where u at in Va? Lynchburg here
|11-13-2012 06:26 PM|
Dry spots in final clear coat
I based and clear coated my mercury with ppg black base and ppg clear. I applied two coats of clear and sanded the entire car with eight hundred grit. I applied a third and final coat yesterday. I don't have the best lighting in the garage and on inspection today I find that I have a few dry spots in the lower areas. I'm wondering if I can just sand them out because I have three coats of clear on the car or should I sand the area and apply more clear and blend? Thanks, Ron Randolph