|11-23-2012 11:26 AM|
I think he is talking more about the replacement glass not being correct than the body being off.
Now, the body being off WAS the issue with my truck. But it was because when I chopped the tope (I was 16 yrs old) one windshield post leaned more than the other! So being it had two pieces of flat glass for the windshield one side had a different shape than the other! LOL
|11-23-2012 07:37 AM|
mis welded bodies
In the old days the all the locating pins and clamps were manually closed. If a panel did not fit the welder was supposed to align it with a drift pin then close the locator and lock it in,
once a body was painted they usually did not scrap it. In the Factory we had a large wet belt sander that they used to sand a windshield to fit , Until electric sensors were added to verify the Buck sometimes I would see one or two bad bodies a month out of an 8000 lot build. and there was a 59 Ford sedan that made it to the final inspection, drive away area that was a 2 door body on one side and a 4 door body on the passenger side. The rumor followed it down the assembly line that it was a safety Taxi cab so the rider could not get out on the traffic side. In the 80's when fox body Mustangs and Capries were built, a limit switch stuck and a mustang on one side and a capri on the other side. The Plc program did not have a go- no- go verify loop logic reset check. and the Ford design engineer that rewrote the program became an expert witness when amusment park accidents happened because there was not enough safety logic in their operating programs.
|11-22-2012 05:49 PM|
|Chevymon||When using replacement glass, make sure it fits the opening first. I bought a windshield that did not fit|
|11-22-2012 01:39 PM|
Very good on checking the flange for sharp spots I never thought of that! Sure, simply clean them up so they don't cut the rubber. Duh! Thanks
|11-22-2012 12:17 PM|
My brother used to install 200 per day on the assembly line. They used to pre head the rubber before installing it to the glass, On cool Northern Calif days the rack of ready to install glass had a bank of heatlamps. Most guys used soap but he could install them faster using kerosene but it leaves a smell for a while. He overlapped the installation "rope' on the bottom so it was doubled, I still have the rubber hook tool. A 1/4 inch shank screwdriver was chucked in a lathe , A ball was formed on the end then a long taper back, the shaft them polished. The end was heated and bent to an L with a 1 in long elbow. when the rubber does not pull in easily you could "help " it with the tool and not tear the rubber lip. They used to use a rubber hammer to "help seat the glass. but with out a lot of experience knowing how hard to hit , they can break. I also have the rope tool, a screwdriver with an oval ring on the end shaped and a slight fold to install the rope to the rubber in about 10 seconds.
be sure you check the windshield flange for ripples , sharp spot weld flash, etc , I always use a hammer and dolly to work the flange as smooth as possible
|11-22-2012 10:53 AM|
I have to tell you I would be thinking about having a glass shop do that, one that really knows these old cars.
I have installed many rope-ins but easy ones like quarter glass or the back glass on a truck. I did the windshield on my own truck, split flat glass. But that curved large glass, that is quite a bit harder. I would probably do it too but be careful as it can break easy, very easy. The back and quarters that I have done are tempered glass and MUCH harder to break putting in than that safety plate windshield.
I have used silicone for lube, 3M use to make a product that is now illegal and I have a few cans, that stuff is awesome but soapy water is probably the best bet. If you need any sealant you don't want the silicone I wouldn't imagine. On the stuff I do, late model cars with good OEM rubber they don't need any kind of sealant after you install, it is water tight without any.
But on a windshield like yours probably with repro rubber, or older cracked stuff, you are likely going to need a sealant. So soapy water is what I would be using.
I just rope it all the way around starting and ending at the bottom with a lot of rope hanging out both ends. With a lot of help tuck the bottom rubber in first as far as you can go to the corners. Then pull the rope one direction and when you get to the corner apply an even light pressure as you pull the rope from inside the car to lift up that edge of rubber. After you get a little around the corner lifted up over the pinch weld, go to the other side and do the same, then go back to the first side and go a little further then to the other side and go a little further. You keep doing this until you are all the way round and finishing at the top. The glass then gets set by pushing it in gently all the way around from the outside.
As I said, that glass will crack VERY easy, you really need to go around evenly and don't try to push it in until it's ready at each move, it really takes patience!
This is such a specialty thing I would read as much as you can, other guys ideas and throw them all together in your head so you have a real good idea before you do it.
Here is a video I found that is pretty decent but on your car I think you need to put the bottom lip on first and not just set it on like they did. But as I said, you need to get well educated and maybe that IS the way to do it and my method is not as good. So get well educated before you try it.
At the end when he is really pulling hard with pliers, I have found that if you have to pull it that hard, you are almost sure to cut the darn rubber, so be careful!
|11-22-2012 10:48 AM|
|BOBCRMAN@aol.com||Dollar store dish washing soap in squeeze bottle.|
|11-22-2012 09:35 AM|
I have to put my windshield back into my Tbird. It's a'62 and the widshield goes into a gasket which fits over a pinchweld. I've gut the butyl goo in a caulking tube but what do you use for a lubricant for the draw string? Any other hints would be greatly appreciated too.