|12-01-2012 07:07 PM|
|cobalt327||Good man for coming back to let us know. Thanks.|
|12-01-2012 04:09 PM|
|Dougie||Bench bled them and then bled as usual and I now have a pedal. Last time I try to cut corners. Thansk to all.|
|11-26-2012 05:49 PM|
if you do it on the car make sure the piston travels the complete stroke otherwise you will not get all the air out.
|11-26-2012 09:36 AM|
|Dougie||Sounds like a plan. Thanks all.|
|11-26-2012 09:31 AM|
If time permits, bleed them then go have a coke, then come back and bleed them again. Rapping on the outside of the MC w/a hammer handle or rubber/rawhide mallet will sometimes allow air to be bled that was clinging to the internals.
|11-26-2012 09:27 AM|
|RWENUTS||You can do it on the car. Usually need two people.|
|11-26-2012 09:15 AM|
|Dougie||Yep I missed this step. I have a real tight setup with the clutch MC next to it, so I put short pigtails on the M/C to clear the congestion and connected the lines to the pigtails below the M/C. If I disconnect the lines from the pigtails and attach new line from them and run them back into the bowls, this should allow me to bleed it on the car correct?|
|11-26-2012 08:32 AM|
The squirting is normal. The latest MC I bought had bench bleeding instructions that were different than the usual way of running hoses from the outlets back into the reservoir or a can of fluid.
The new directions were to block off both outlet ports w/the enclosed plastic plugs, then to depress the piston w/a dowel, etc. slowly and to not bottom it, until there were no more bubbles from the ports in the floor of the reservoir.
Now, I'm not positive that will work w/ANY MC or not, but I suspect it will. Might be worth a try if you have plugs that fit, otherwise you'll need to do it the normal way. You should have gotten the plastic fittings and lines w/the MC. If not, I'd go back and ask for them- they'll take them from the next guy's MC.
But however you do it, do it!
Also be sure the pushrod has some clearance when the pedal is at rest. Sometimes a spring is needed to assist the pedal to fully return.
|11-26-2012 06:24 AM|
usually there are directions and hardware included with master cyl to do bench bleeding process
|11-25-2012 11:11 PM|
|Dougie||*****. I'll have to do that. I thought that bleeding the brakes would be all it needs.|
|11-25-2012 09:31 PM|
|RWENUTS||If it hasn't been bench bled it will do that.|
|11-25-2012 08:04 PM|
|Dougie||I did not. Could that be the issue? Is it normal to squirt out like I described?|
|11-25-2012 07:27 PM|
did you bench bleed master cyl before installing?
|11-25-2012 05:07 PM|
All new brake system - no pedal
62 Studebaker being converted to small block Chevy. Stock Studebaker front drums with new wheel cylinders and brake shoes. Rear is a Ford 8.8 drum brake rear end. All new wheel cylinders and shoes. All new lines. New Ford manual drum brake master cylinder from 1970 Torino. I bled all brakes and still had no pedal, only slight resistance but went all the way to floor. I realized I never adjusted the drum brakes so went back and brought them all up. Pedal is same. So I took off the M/C cover and when I press on the brake pedal, fluid shoots like a geyser from the front reservoir (for rear brakes). There are 2 holes in each resrvoir (see picture). In each reservoir there is a larger hole to the rear and a very small hole towards the front, almost like a pinhole. The fluid is squirting up from the small hole at the front. This happens as soon as pressure is applied to pedal and conrtinues through the stroke. This only happens on the front; nothing on the rear reservoir. It is all fluid. there are no air bubbles. If I depress the pedal very slowly you can see the motion of the fluid coming up but not breaking the surface, so I know there are zero air bubbles.
Is this normal to have fluid squirt up from that hole? Any other thoughts will be greatly appreciated. I'm at a loss. Thanks