Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board - Reply to Topic
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Transmission - Rearend> 700r4 shifting
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Thread: 700r4 shifting Reply to Thread
Title:
  
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Topic Review (Newest First)
11-30-2012 09:48 AM
85impala
Quote:
Originally Posted by ASE Doc View Post
If all other shifts are normal, it's more likely a sticking 1-2 valvetrain. To change fluid, you need to drop the pan. You will also want to replace the filter while you're in there. The trick to dropping the pan is to do so without bathing in ATF. The best way to do this is to use a large drain pan and loosen the pan bolts in a pattern, starting from the front. Generally, the fluid will begin to drain from the front of the pan as you loosen the bolts. Once the bolts are loosened, remove all but one bolt on each side close to the rear of the pan. Then, while supporting the pan with one hand, remove the last two bolts and gently roll the pan towards the front, allowing the remaining fluid to pour into the pan. On some installs, the rear crossmember restricts access to the rear pan bolts so that you have to raise the rear of the trans slightly to get those bolts. On these units, I generally remove those bolts first, then move to the front and follow the pattern I detailed earlier. The filter just pulls loose by hand with a little twisting back and forth. The filter to case seal may be either rubber or rubber embossed steel. Using a large screwdriver, you can carefully pry it out. Do not dig the screwdriver tip into the case or you,ll create an internal leak.
Recognize that the 700R4 holds about 12 quarts of fluid. Much more than the pan holds. When at rest, the fluid is way above the edge of the pan and will begin to drain as soon as the pan seal is broken. In a pan drop service, you'll replace about 5 quarts of fluid. You can have a shop that is so equipped perform a fluid exchange, using a machine that is designed for this. I do this here at my shop. We run 16 quarts through the trans via the cooler lines. In reality, with intermixing of old and new in the trans, it probably actually replaces about 7-8 qts of the total fluid. But it's better than nothing. Remember the Lubeguard. Lubeguard is a great product that doesn't have any affect on seals and doesn't try to be a fix all. It's just a combination of friction modifiers and lubricants that improves valve operation and reduces wear of bearings and bushings.
Wow, thanks for the info. I really appreciate it
11-30-2012 09:21 AM
ASE Doc If all other shifts are normal, it's more likely a sticking 1-2 valvetrain. To change fluid, you need to drop the pan. You will also want to replace the filter while you're in there. The trick to dropping the pan is to do so without bathing in ATF. The best way to do this is to use a large drain pan and loosen the pan bolts in a pattern, starting from the front. Generally, the fluid will begin to drain from the front of the pan as you loosen the bolts. Once the bolts are loosened, remove all but one bolt on each side close to the rear of the pan. Then, while supporting the pan with one hand, remove the last two bolts and gently roll the pan towards the front, allowing the remaining fluid to pour into the pan. On some installs, the rear crossmember restricts access to the rear pan bolts so that you have to raise the rear of the trans slightly to get those bolts. On these units, I generally remove those bolts first, then move to the front and follow the pattern I detailed earlier. The filter just pulls loose by hand with a little twisting back and forth. The filter to case seal may be either rubber or rubber embossed steel. Using a large screwdriver, you can carefully pry it out. Do not dig the screwdriver tip into the case or you,ll create an internal leak.
Recognize that the 700R4 holds about 12 quarts of fluid. Much more than the pan holds. When at rest, the fluid is way above the edge of the pan and will begin to drain as soon as the pan seal is broken. In a pan drop service, you'll replace about 5 quarts of fluid. You can have a shop that is so equipped perform a fluid exchange, using a machine that is designed for this. I do this here at my shop. We run 16 quarts through the trans via the cooler lines. In reality, with intermixing of old and new in the trans, it probably actually replaces about 7-8 qts of the total fluid. But it's better than nothing. Remember the Lubeguard. Lubeguard is a great product that doesn't have any affect on seals and doesn't try to be a fix all. It's just a combination of friction modifiers and lubricants that improves valve operation and reduces wear of bearings and bushings.
11-29-2012 02:31 PM
85impala I just got back from a ride around town and now its completely fine, I don't get it.
It now shifts 1-2 at 1500rpm around 15-20 mph just like when I bought it.
I'm now starting to think the t.v cable setup is getting caught on something
11-29-2012 09:45 AM
85impala
Quote:
Originally Posted by ASE Doc View Post
I assume from your description that it shifts normally from 2-3, 3-4. If its shifting late in all gears, it could be a sticking governor, or you TV cable or valvetrain may be sticking or faulty. If it's only shifting late from 1-2, I would suspect a sticky 1-2 valvetrain. Has the trans ever been rebuilt? If not, it will have a fair amount of clutch material built up in the pan. This gets into the fluid and collects throughout the transmission. This can cause valves to stick. Also, the valve body uses aluminum bushings around steel valves. The aluminum wears and the valves begin to catch on the ridges formed in the aluminum bushings. Some of these units used an aluminum valve body that wears in the valve bores and needs to be either repaired or replaced.

You could try servicing the trans fluid and filter and adding a product like Lubeguard. The Red Lubeguard is good for transmissions that take Dexron II or III. Lubeguard adds a little extra lubrication to the fluid and can help things move a little better. However, if this is a high mileage unit, you most likely need an overhaul which includes a thorough inspection of the valve body.
Thanks for your reply Doc,

Yes its only the 1-2 shifts that hold too long, the car only has 55k on the dash, trans has never been rebuilt at least to my knowledge (bought last year).
The T.V cable is fine, I didn't change it since I bought the car.

Changing the fluid and filter sounds good, any tips to do so?
I've never changed atf or even dropped the pan (my first car)
11-29-2012 08:10 AM
ASE Doc I assume from your description that it shifts normally from 2-3, 3-4. If its shifting late in all gears, it could be a sticking governor, or you TV cable or valvetrain may be sticking or faulty. If it's only shifting late from 1-2, I would suspect a sticky 1-2 valvetrain. Has the trans ever been rebuilt? If not, it will have a fair amount of clutch material built up in the pan. This gets into the fluid and collects throughout the transmission. This can cause valves to stick. Also, the valve body uses aluminum bushings around steel valves. The aluminum wears and the valves begin to catch on the ridges formed in the aluminum bushings. Some of these units used an aluminum valve body that wears in the valve bores and needs to be either repaired or replaced.

You could try servicing the trans fluid and filter and adding a product like Lubeguard. The Red Lubeguard is good for transmissions that take Dexron II or III. Lubeguard adds a little extra lubrication to the fluid and can help things move a little better. However, if this is a high mileage unit, you most likely need an overhaul which includes a thorough inspection of the valve body.
11-28-2012 03:07 PM
85impala Oh and I used seafoam motor treatment not the trans tune. The Impala is bone stock except for the headers .
11-28-2012 02:58 PM
85impala
700r4 shifting

Hey guys,
I have a 85 Impala with the carb'd 305 and 700r4

Its been about a week since I drove it but today I decided to use some SeaFoam and take her for a spin.

Before today it would shift fine without a problem but after I used the SeaFoam it seems to hold 1st a lot longer, around 3k it shifts from 1st and it jerks a tad like I have a shift kit (I don't )

The only things that changed since the last time I drove is the outside temp(got colder), installed headers and used SeaFoam.

So what do you guys think is goin on? Is my trans going out?!

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:40 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.