|12-12-2012 08:10 PM|
|dinger||Barry hit the nail on the head. Lead can have an acid residue that can cause problems. A class I took from Gene Winfield quite a few years back, he had an interesting story about Cadzilla and the failure to clean the lead properly that a builder had used when building the car. The paint start peeling. Winfield had the pleasure of fixing the car. Coddington was the rookie with lead. His story, not mine, just passing it on.|
|12-12-2012 01:40 PM|
|tech69||my take is this, guys have stated they have done it with no problems at all. In fact, I'd say most people do it this way, and I haven't heard of issues, but the fact that a few other reputable people have had isses with it, that's enough for me to err on the safe side. Thing is, we all can't do what we really want in a work atmosphere on every job.|
|12-12-2012 12:47 PM|
Even if spreading filler over the lead "could" work and has many times, the time spent to do it RIGHT and put the epoxy over it sure isn't time wasted that's for sure!
|12-12-2012 12:28 PM|
|tech69||awesome responses and looks like I'm not the only one who learned something here. Thanks, guys.|
|12-12-2012 07:31 AM|
Lead had been a major headache for restoration shops for years, this is why so many grind the lead out and refill with different types of fiberglass fillers, witch I think is just an abomination.
First mistake, is cleaning the old lead with lacquer thinner, first of all lacquer thinner today is not lacquer thinner unless you have a $100 + a gallon thinner from one of the majors.
Now the exception is new lead you applied, then yes it should be neutralized but use a fast urethane reducer would be your best bet.
Buzz the lead with a DA and 80 or 180, just to clean the top and smooth out, never touch the lead with a 2K primer, Body filler, fiberglass or glazing putty.
Clean the lead with a good grade wax and grease remover and then do it again, let set overnight.(very important)
Apply one wet coat of epoxy that is activated only, no extra reducer should be added. (very important)
Let set at least an hour at 70-75 degrees, (very important) spray a second wet coat.
Let set 24-48 hours at 70 degrees or higher, then any low spot or chips finish out with your two part glazing putty using the epoxy as a barrier coat.
This is as bullet proof as you can get and as 4speed said, no car is more loaded with lead then a 55-57 T-bird.
|12-11-2012 09:53 PM|
|mr4speed||I have had trouble putting filler over lead on one car inparticular and WILL always seal with epoxy from that point on. Had to completely redo 12 spots on a 56 tbird that all blistered in the lead areas. Talked with several people about this and they all recommended to seal over original leaded seams before skimming with filler. Apparently lead oxidises almost immediatly after sanding it, so what I do is put some epoxy in the gun and have some 180 grit in the other hand then epoxy as soon as I scuff it up. I have put filler right over the top of lead years and years ago with no trouble, but when you do have trouble beleive me fixing that bird was total hell. Car was completely finished fresh from the restoration shop that had to reassemble it. That is when it came back to me to "fix" all the blisters. Had to take half the car apart, grind all 12 spots back down to the lead (all tough compound curved areas) then redo all the bodywork then proceed to blend in all these spots. It was a nightmare plain and simple and because of that I always first epoxy the lead regardless.|
|12-11-2012 09:24 PM|
|TucsonJay||I've been putting filler over leaded seams since 1972 with no failures.|
|12-11-2012 06:49 PM|
|12-11-2012 01:35 PM|
|tech69||just checking, cause he himself said he had no issues doing it thru his own experience but will epoxy over lead cause someone he trusts told him so. I dunno, I do notice on rare occasions that it won't feather great on the lead and it will chip away but it was one out of hundreds. Thanks for the input, guys.|
|12-11-2012 01:22 PM|
|12-11-2012 10:40 AM|
I have had no issues and I am sure hundreds of cars had filler direct to lead with no issues over the years..so not to worry if you have done some that way..
|12-11-2012 09:49 AM|
yeah, and a rough out of the metal you can see as well. Sounds like a plan. Thanks.
I still gotta ask, have you had issues with putting body filler straight over lead? Sorry for all the prodding.
|12-11-2012 05:52 AM|
Doing it that way is a real time saver and works fine..I am in favor of getting all the parts and pieces cleaned and in epoxy primer as I go so when the car is re-assembled all that needs to be done is to scuff the epoxy and carry on with the blocking a painting..
|12-11-2012 02:47 AM|
|tech69||so in general you are saying epoxy over lead as a seal coat before adding filler on top to perfect it? This is interesting to me cause that now means I'll strip those areas before it goes to the stripper so I can block out the lead. This way when I get it back in epoxy I can just lightly sand and fill without worrying about the shape of the lead. I'm generally talking quarter seam lead.|
|12-11-2012 02:09 AM|
What is generally accepted these days is to strip to bare metal and seal with 2 wet coats of epoxy then carry on with filing and blocking steps..if one encounters lead in good condition just epoxy over that as well and carry on..that is what I would do..
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