|03-07-2013 02:10 PM|
|mitmaks||In the end, I'm so glad I have my stud welder, it sure pays for itself first time you use it.|
|03-07-2013 01:14 PM|
Hey James...I think you posted on the wrong thread...at least I hope so...that would mean that you got the etch primer off...LOL.
|03-07-2013 01:08 PM|
|James670X||Worked good. Thanks guys!|
|03-05-2013 05:41 PM|
|01-03-2013 09:05 AM|
End of an era
Yeah, when I was in west palm 15 yrs ago there were scads of 70-81 camaro and 70-76 Duster-Valiant stuff. Used to make me sick how many minty valiants went to the yard. I got all the glass out of a Duster for $40.00. The rustbelt cars always had good door glass because the window felts were not all dried out from the sun to scratch everything. They had the good interior parts too. When WPB enacted the smog checks that sent allot of retiree's cars to the yard who had migrated down here from up North. Good times, but the ride is over.
I have hit several yards in my area in Vero that do not have a single 2nd gen camaro or duster part.
Your 85 Camaro is the 70 Camaro of the now. Enjoy it while it lasts......
|12-29-2012 07:29 AM|
Hey GD ,Your right next door in Fla...I used to live in Ocala about 15yrs ago we had some pretty good yards there but the demand was high ,theres a lot of hotrodders down there,You cant hop in your car and go to the store without seeing a few ...I dont know whats up with this town but thers not too many rodders out there.You wouldnt believe the cars I've seen at the yards even the U-pull-it had a 40 merc with a few good parts left,a 66 mustang,the nose was flattend but from the doors back was pretty nice....and all the interior was still there.
heres a pic of the old doorit had some rust that I was going to repair but when I saw all the bondo I scrapped it (red door)
Then a pic of the new one after I stripped it(silver door)
Not too bad for 50.00
|12-28-2012 08:09 AM|
|12-28-2012 06:43 AM|
Your on the right track...I was stripping the whole car anyways got the nose done and the door when I decided to scrap the door it takes less that an hour to strip a door but thats the easy part I'm rebuilding the door with new seals window regs& motors,rebuilt hinges etc...
Yours is a whole different type of job,I understand this..taking the door off will open a big can of worms and get expensive so you just want to fix the damage and only the damage...two completely different jobs...
That said, I dont just go wandering around the yards looking for a part ,I get online find the part and how many there are so I can pick and choose..Once I found the best door it took less than 15 min to pull it ,its a complete door so if I wanted too I could just replace it as a unit and just change out the lock cylinder Once I left the shop I was back within two hrs and had lunch too.
so far I have two hrs getting it ...100.00
the door itself.............................50.00
1 1/2 hrs stripping the outside and rebuilding the hinges...75.00
today I'll spend a few min and spray the epoxy primer on the outer shell and tomorrow 1 1/2 hr fixing 1/2 a dozen dime size dings but lets call it another 4hrs or 200.00 altogether thats 425 for a freash door ready to paintmost of that is all preppeing that I'd have to do anywayactual body work is only 1 1/2 hrsSo in my case its the way to go being my labor is expensiveIf your not counting labor its ok to spend two days doing body work only its just 10-30.00 for a can of bondo.
But to tell the truth ,if I was doing that job I would'nt bother welding up the holes,I'd just stuff it too...Theres the right way for every job and thats the right way for that particular job...mostly I was just showing there are good doors out thereand they are prtty cheap I found two less than 5 mile away ....and dont buy stuff from Ebay and amitures get your parts from yards that know how to grade the quality of the part so you donet waste time and money buying junk....Location DOES have a lot to do with the selection and quality of parts.... a good salvage yard will ship all over the country....
|12-27-2012 07:22 AM|
|12-27-2012 06:52 AM|
I'm building an 85 camaro(Iroc) my drivers door had about a 1/3 of the damage yours does and full of those holes too...so off to pull-a-part I went, there was ten to choose from I found a real nice drivers door undamaged with O rust...48.00..
I found a real nice pass door while there
I suspect my pass door is in the same shape so I'll take the grinder to it to be sure but for 50.00 I cant even weld up the holes that cheap,never mind all that filler work and in the end I'll have a filler free set of doors with very little time in them...
Skinning it would be my next choice, it sould only take 1-2 hours to skin that bad boy and not only would it be cheaper in the end it'll be filler free.
There are those that love doing filler work though,I'm just not one of them.Its dirty and time consuming ,that door would take me a min of 10 hrs to get ready for paint,at my shop thats 500.00 for a door full of bondo..a skin would be 2-300.00...a good used door 150.00 but you have to look them over real good...
|12-26-2012 01:03 PM|
I will post pics to show progress when I can. Happy Holidays!!!!
|12-21-2012 11:37 PM|
don't get me wrong, I get the volcanoes too but on most repairs of that era I see no clear direction as to where to put the holes. They're usually all in a straight line, as if the guy said, "this is the lowest spot I'm pulling here!", and because they didn't put the holes where they needed to be to roll it out, or perhaps didn't hammer down highs while yanking they create huge volcanoes. Seeing this is just a head ache to fix. I'm sure I wouldn't have done any different...I probably would have mudded over them to top it off.
Thought it was worth mentioning because the severity of that could be a determining factor on whether or not to skin. I did my mustang and it had holes all accross the door and as I was half done I wanted to just toss it but also didn't want to throw away all that work. I got to keep my original sheet metal allright...some odd hours later.
|12-21-2012 11:09 PM|
One of the worse things we did was drill the holes, the teepee or as we called them volcanos were a sure thing with a drilled hole. But if it is punched with an awl the volcano is going IN so when you pull it out you end up with something much flatter.
I can't believe that I just did a "Basics" on a slide hammer dent puller.
|12-21-2012 09:48 PM|
Well you big butcher lets see some photos of the finished repair lol!!!!!!
|12-15-2012 08:18 PM|
|tech69||thing that sucks about the hole era is a lot of guys just used the screw slide hammers and made teepees out of the hole and stretching the metal in those areas and thinning it. Instead of rolling the metal out they just yanked hard and if you don't roll it out right you get teepees. If you know what you're doing the teepee effect won't be an issue.|
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