|01-11-2013 01:32 AM|
Another question..first of doubt Ill do it.But I have some single stage dark gray since the paint hasn't even been on 25 hours can I just scuff the clear&shoot it?
I'm pretty sure that the SS will solve the problem that stuff is thicker then a 20 dollar milkshake... the reason I'm not sure about using it is the SS doesn't seem to flow as great in the cold in the summer I shot SS and it came out great this past summer. just takes so long to flash when cold even with a fast activator. I'm scared I'll just make it worse.
So I figured I could try on the hood since I have to sand&reshoot.I mean the silver only has minor flaws and you can't see it from a few feet away.But even with it being a daily driver it's a really nice lifted truck I have brand new interior and 2000 dollars an oversized wheels and tires
Kinda sucks to say hey I painted it myself and scratches ruin the awesome paint work.The wife says to live with it as by summer I'll be buying a Cummins and swapping out the tires left and interior. so it's either deal with it for now repaint it later or shoot a single stage... sorry so long anyway if I have to shoot the SS what do I need to do to prep. here's a pic of the SS I did in the summer.
I'VE LEARNED MY LESSON IF YOU DON'T HAVE GOOD LIGHTING GO GET SOME BEFORE YOU PAINT
|01-10-2013 11:49 PM|
update my painting
to tech69 what would you recommend on silver ?
|01-10-2013 08:41 PM|
Ok so the paint is done..came out awesome..I will never again touch a hf gun...got almost all of the scratches out there is maybe 3 or 4 small flaws from bad sanding..I attribute that to just me learning&having to reprint so many times..but more than anything to bad lighting..I'm going tomorrow to buy all new lighting.
The hood I thought was fine but after paint there was way too many scratches so I'm just gonna really build the primer up&block it for the last time&since this is just a daily driver..call it done.
|01-08-2013 06:19 PM|
First off I sent this to someone who is a great help with tips&pointers&greatest!Ill keep his name a secret but wanted to also ask on here not because he won't help cause I'm sure he wi just because you guys have been with me through all of this also..so here's a somewhat copy&paste...I just couldn't get the scratches to fill so I did something I thought would really take care of it
It didn't I hit the bad scratch spots in a glofball size shape&just shot tons of hi build primer till it looked like whipped topping.. It was the wrong thing to do..&after about a hour I tryd to sand it down&it made a pile of crap .I'm guessing it wasn't cured enough..well the problem with the scratch marks still showing ended up being because my cheap hf gun I've been using for primer wasn't cutting it.So I used my new gun(which I was trying not to use for primer) it fixed it all. With the 1.8 tip...can I wait overnite till these blotches I sprayed&I really laid it on can I sand em down&feather them then spot shoot where needed?
Bust my chops all you want I deserve it I'm new to this I have nobody but you guys&my email helper..but I will not lie when I screw up Ill admit when I do something wrong&I won't give up!I mean my paint really laid like glass no orange peel I'm taking extra time making sure I mix correctly&I'm not using cheap stuff any longer..I had 6 hf purple guns&there two 'pro' gun kit..I tool stripped down parts I may be able to use&through the guns In the trash&if anyone can recommend any good dvds on this type of work Ill buy em.
I can't think of any work more fulfilling then taking some old&making it look new.I know I'm a far way away but I've made up my mind this 100&a zillion % want to do this.Tomorrow I'm even gonna call some paint&body shops&ask if I can work
For free for month or two to learn.
Please just tell ke how to fix this screw up I have for the da 80 grit,150 220 320&400..for the block 500,1000,80,&400 HELP
|01-07-2013 10:00 PM|
|tech69||use guide coat and it will tell you whether they are sanded out. This is where curing good helps cause it may settle back into those earlier scratches at a later time.|
|01-07-2013 02:59 PM|
|cutthroatkid||Since I can see the sanding marks on the primer do I sand all of the primer off or just build it back up|
|01-07-2013 02:55 PM|
|01-07-2013 11:50 AM|
|01-07-2013 09:41 AM|
|cutthroatkid||It was pretty warm in my shop it was dry to the touch in a matter of minutes..sorry if I seem obnoxious I just want this thint looking great now that does paint does...I'm gonna finish sanding down today then shoot with primer&let it sit over nite to see if it shrinks..does that sound good?|
|01-07-2013 06:50 AM|
|deadbodyman||You should sand your primer with 400 wet or 320 DA, nothing coarser...Primers take longer to cure when its cold out,when you can stick your fingernail in it without leaving a mark its ready to sand. This test works for paint too..|
|01-07-2013 01:53 AM|
|tech69||no more than the tech sheet says, usually 2-3. The wetter and colder the longer the flash.|
|01-07-2013 01:47 AM|
|cutthroatkid||Ok will do that I'm gonna slow down&take it nice& slow. how many coats of high build primer do you recommend?|
|01-07-2013 01:38 AM|
|tech69||you can use 50-60 grit on a die grinder slowly and then 40 then 80 on a 3/8" throw DA sander. that should get it out. If that will mess too much up around it just throw a super tight coat and thin coat of filler over it and feather it out nice while leaving just enough to cover the marks.|
|01-07-2013 12:52 AM|
|01-07-2013 12:47 AM|
are you saying the edges of the scratch marks of the original paint appeared to lift or look bloated? If so that's solvents reacting.
So are you saying it hasn't been cleared and is just in basecoat?
If so, go straight to 240-320-500. or 400-500-600. you can just 600 lightly and take little material off. Go to primer and guide coat once you hit it.
Please just give us the details.
Is it in base or clear?
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