|01-14-2013 07:48 AM|
The 9C1 sender is 0-80 psi, so I believe the halfway point on the gauge becomes 40 psi instead of 30 psi. But either way this can be verified by attaching a temporary mechanical gauge.
|01-14-2013 06:42 AM|
|MouseFink||Take the oil pressure with a "real" oil pressure gauge and you will find the oil pressure is about 10 PSI or less at 850 RPM.|
|01-13-2013 07:20 PM|
|CapriceLTZ||oil pressure hangs around 25-30 @ 8 to 8.5 x100 rpm running @ temp|
|01-13-2013 02:27 PM|
Standard idle sped is 650 to 700 RPM in Drive, no matter how much mileage the engine has. If the oil pressure is less than 10 PSI at 700 RPM, it indicates that the engine has worn out main bearings.
The red oil pressure "idiot lights" back in the 1960s were calibrated to illuminate at 7 PSI.
|01-13-2013 01:43 PM|
|CapriceLTZ||What is an ideal idle for this engine? take into account age(22yrs) and miles(183,000)|
|01-12-2013 10:49 AM|
|MouseFink||Combustion forces pressure past stuck or worn rings and pressurizes the oil pan. The excessive oil pan pressure becomes greater than atmospheric pressure and forces oil and oil vapor out of the openings in the oil pan such as breathers and dipstick tubes.|
|01-12-2013 10:18 AM|
|CapriceLTZ||ok, so what could be reason for this blowby relocating from air/breather to the diptube then? this is confusing.|
|01-09-2013 08:09 AM|
In the 1970's, Shaler Rislone worked for me on high mileage engines that had noisy hydraulic lifters and it also reduced smoking exhaust and oil consumption. In 1983, Rislone was reformulated after the introduction of catalytic converters and more stringent emissions controls.
In 2006, the old Shaler Company was sold to Bar's Products and I suspect that Rislone has become nothing but snake-oil. Give Rislone a try, I have not used Rislone in 35 years and I may be wrong about the product.
|01-08-2013 04:46 PM|
I seriously doubt anything from a can or bottle is going to help but if you suspect stuck rings, you might want to try Marvel Mystery oil. Squirt some in the plug holes and use it in the crankcase per the instructions.
|01-08-2013 04:44 PM|
All the additives in the world do one thing, lighten your wallet.
Flushing your worn out engine with a can of snake oil will push it over the edge.
You need to determine the issue by using the info these guys gave you to figure out the EXACT problem. Until then you are throwing money at it blindly.
If you determine the rings are worn and it is blowby (which is almost 100 % gauranteed) you can dump in an oil change and substitute a quart of oil with a can of lucas oil stabilizer . That may help you 'limp " along for a while longer.
Dont expect a miracle though.
|01-08-2013 03:24 PM|
|01-08-2013 01:28 PM|
If a catalytic converter is blocked on a high mileage engine, the exhaust back-pressure at highway speed can by-pass the rings, over-pressure the oil pan and cause the engine puke oil out the dipstick tube or any openings that are open to the atmosphere.
In 1984, my daughter's 1978 Firebird did that when she was using leaded premium gasoline. The leaded gasoline stopped up the catalytic converter. There was some leaded gasoline still available at the pump in 1984 and was gone completely by 1986.
|01-08-2013 10:45 AM|
Additives rarely give acceptable results. If there's a real problem, a can of fluid will not help.
|01-08-2013 10:18 AM|
|RWENUTS||In order for the pcv to work you need a fresh air supply into the motor. Check it first. Should be on the opposite valve cover to the pcv.|
|01-08-2013 09:53 AM|
|DanielC||Do the tests cobalt suggested.|
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