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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-21-2013 06:15 AM
dogwater I would of been for some real trouble if I would of heated up that part of the roof,the lead would of came loose. After sanding on it, it looks like their was quite a bit of leading that was put on their. So I sanded down some of the lead to get it as level as I could then added filler to bring up the middle of the low spot. Running my hand over it,it feels fine. I hope it looks good with clear coat on it.
01-18-2013 06:43 PM
dogwater I started sanding on the low spot today and 80% of every thing that was high was lead.This was one of those spots that you couldn't see but could feel.I guess it came from the factory like that.
01-17-2013 08:14 AM
timothale
T top structure.

T top conversions were not very well engineered, I have a 5.0 HO T top Capri RS. It had been driven hard, and crashed. The doors did not fit very well, I found the typical mustang cracks under the drivers seat, rocker panel , under the rear seat, upper quarter panel near the door. I got It up and straightened everything I could then installed a heavy duty sub frame ladder kit, and added more bracing in the front radiator support and under the rear seat. More tie plates, welds and 1/4 barn tin drill point screws in hard to weld areas. It is now solid and the rear tires hook up a lot better. I have a friend who does backyard body work. He put one crash on my heavy equipment trailer, blocked up the body, doubled up the winch cable with a snatch block, chained it down and pulled it back. A couple times we used the backhoe to be able to pull the direction we needed.
01-17-2013 07:58 AM
MARTINSR It really needs a pull on the rear body to relieve the pressure. You can pull that little dent out but with the pressure that probably there in the back end of that car it may come back unless repaired properly.

Heating it up, you are asking for trouble. Do you have a shop you could go to and get the pull and maybe the work just started and you finish the filler work and primer and all?

Brian
01-17-2013 07:00 AM
dogwater Yes it had been rearended before,the honeycone thing was mashed pretty good an the inner steel bumper where the bolts come thru the body had indented the sheet metal about an 1/8 of an inche.I had to replace the lower quarter,honey cone chingadarea & the inner steel bumper,an theirs a very sm. crease on the frame rail. Theirs also a buckle in the floor pan that's below the rear seat,but I thought that might of came from running over something.I'm not a body work kinda person,infact I hate it, but nobody is going to do it for me. I turn wrenches a hell of alot better. I did look under the roof an their is a rail that runs under the low spot an it kinda looks like its low on either side of the rail. I haven't taken it down to bear metal yet I was scuff sanding an found it by running my hand over it. I know it will show up once theirs new clear coat on it.
01-16-2013 11:22 AM
MARTINSR Post some photos, I am not real clear on what this looks like. Is there access from the underside? I mean ANY access, is there a hole that you could put a rod thru to put some pressure on the back side?

I know this dent sounds like a buckle that could be there from the rear of the car being hit, has it been hit in the rear?

Brian
01-16-2013 07:17 AM
dogwater
Big low spot on the roof corner

I have a big low area on the corner or where the roof starts to bend down,well its in the bend. This is a 78 Camaro w/t-tops, the low area starts at the opening of the t-top an extends back to the channel where the back glass sits, about 10" long an 5" wide.Also is right at where the roof was leaded in. I didn't want to use filler to fix it, but was wanting to use heat to hopefully pull it tight.If I was to use a propane torch should I heat the area above an below the low spot or on the low it self. I'm worried about the lead. I haven't looked yet at the bottom of the roof as the head liner is still in their, I'm gonna yank it out today,maybe I can slide something between the framing( if their is any) to push up. The bend is fairly sharp if I did use filler my longest board (20" long) won't be able to handle that much of an angle.Plus the sand paper would bunch up when bent.So I thought heating it up an using as little filler as I could would be best. So should I use heat an where to heat it up at? Or filler,an how I should sand it?

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