|02-04-2013 10:06 PM|
|02-04-2013 09:35 PM|
|vinniekq2||maybe make friends with someone(or pay a local) to represent you at the shop?If it was a shop near me,I would say ship me the engine and I would drive down to the shop with the crate and stand there and watch.Im sure if they are a good shop they will help you to some degree.I know most shops dont warrant "race" engines|
|02-04-2013 09:16 PM|
|02-04-2013 08:22 PM|
not blaming you but,if there is going to be a problem,its going to be right away most of the time.I hope the builder helps you out.I hope when you get it back in its home,you drive the car hard in the first few days.To make it easier on the builder and show good faith,you should offer to pay for an upgrade to a roller cam while it is apart.If its mild,use a hydraulic roller.Let him make a couple bucks on the cam and he will likely be ok with helping you out.
If its not to far,drive the engine down there and be there when they take it apart?Let him explain what happened while you are looking at it. a picture is worth a 1,000 words. example; if the oil pick up is sitting in the bottom of the pan,,,not a thing you did would cause that.It takes 15 minutes to take an engine apart,,,
|02-04-2013 07:55 PM|
|396chevelle||Well guys thanks for the advice! I've been pretty sick to my stomach. I've got the motor almost ready to pull. I was going to finish pulling it on my off day and then pull the pan and see what's going on, but I really started thinking about the whole thing which got me more angry. Yes, there is a 1yr warranty on the motor and I'm at exactly 1yr and 2 months, but other than the 4hr dyno time (Per shop statement) I may have driven a total of 500 miles max in that time frame. Always using oil with zddp since It has a flat tappet cam in it. Really no reason for it to be doing what its doing. Im curious to know what has happened. I decided to call the shop that built it and he was pretty cool about it and told me to pay the shipping there and back and they would break it down to see what happened and if it was there fault they would take care of the expense, but if it was my fault they would do the labor for free, but I would have to pay for the parts. Thats pretty good!!! But lets see how it goes!! Oe thing I'm worried about is I can't investigate for my self because I don't want it to look like I tampered with it by breaking things loose. Clearly I've done nothing to cause this. t could be very easy for them to say I have. Sounds like a straight up guy, but I don't know. I'm not sure what it is, but it definitly sounds like its coming from the crank area using my "Mechanics Stethescope". Sound was louder toward the middle of the pan. Anyway, guess the decision on who's fault it is lies in his hands. Thanks again for the replies and next time I will build it myself. Less Stress. Father passed years ago and the last motor I built with him was 20yrs ago, so I figured I'd pay someone else. Over the past 2 days I went back looking at my fathers manuals and some of it started coming back pretty quick! Sure wish the old man was still here to help me with this one.|
|02-03-2013 10:17 AM|
|455olds||I would at least call the place you got the engine from, maybe if you ask nice they will still help you. Nothing ventured nothing gained.|
|02-03-2013 01:56 AM|
If the motor is making metal the thing to do is to tear it down before you run it anymore and find out where it's coming from. A spun bearing will get worse fast. If caught early it might just need a rod resized or the block aligned honed along with a rering kit. Oil pressure will start dropping if a motor has spun a bearing. It may get harder to crank over as well.
There is really no limit how bad it can get if a spun bearing is allow to continue to run. If you're lucky it will just lock up. If you're not so lucky it could tear up a bearing bore passed the point of repairing or even break a rod and the broken piece of rod could punch a hole in the block.
When you tear it down don't forget to take a good look at the cam and lifters. You might be starting to loose a lobe off the cam.
|02-02-2013 11:16 PM|
pull it apart,measure everything,check crank for straight if its forged. If a bearing is spun,plan on resizing the rods. Now when you put it back together you will know every single detail.Aim for a perfect blue print.The learning experience,though expensive will be worth it.
remember,perfection is acceptable
|02-02-2013 08:49 PM|
Ok, short and to the point. I had a 496 built and shipped to 1yr 1 month ago which the warranty ended at 1 yr. Being this was a weekend cruiser I haven't driven it a whole lot, and I only took it to the track a twice shifting at 5,500 rpm. What I'm getting at is not much use in a year! Well I heared it rattling the other day when I first cranked it, but it went away after it warmed up. So I cranked it again yesterday same thing, but louder so I got my mechanic stethoscope out and I can hear it in the center of the pan. Drained the oil and the oil had metallic dust with a little metal in it ( I stuck a magnet in the oil and let it sit over night) I also cut the oil filter, but it was clean! I've always went concervative on motors, so if there was a problem with motor you had some metal left to work with (Bore it) 1st time going with a stroked motor. If its a bearing can the motor be repaired or is it shot and I need a new block? I'm not familiar with stroked motors. I can't believe it's spun a bearing already with no abuse! Unbelievable, but guess what I missed the warranty by 1 month thousands lost. Makes me sick! Gonna pull the pan once I pull it to see how bad it is.
Thank for your input?