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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-02-2014 12:01 PM
MARTINSR This kit I used had bearings as you can see in the photo on the top and bottom of the bushings. THOSE got packed with grease! LOL

Brian
03-02-2014 05:59 AM
gearheadslife
Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
Could have been, or simply greased it on assembly.

Brian
ya that might have helped.. all my poly bushing came with a frosty clearish grease
03-01-2014 11:04 PM
MARTINSR Could have been, or simply greased it on assembly.

Brian
03-01-2014 08:46 PM
gearheadslife think if you made yours greasable it would've been fine.
03-01-2014 08:13 PM
MARTINSR Wellllll, it has been a year and my rebuild idler arm that I was so proud of has failed! The bushing was SHOT and it was wobbling all over just like with the 50 year old original rubber one, CRAP.

I rebuilt it again using the NORS rebuild kit I had bought long ago. When I found that the kit was wrong, I used the Pete and Jake bushing. But after that one failed I decided to MAKE the wrong kit work. I had to ream out the holes in the bushings and use some washers to space it properly but it worked out well.



The kit used thrust bearings so I am thinking it's going to last.



It's been almost exactly a year since I posted this how to, hopefully no one else followed my advice and used one of those bushings for theirs. If you did, I'm sorry.

Brian
03-18-2013 08:23 AM
MARTINSR There is no new idler arm for my Rambler, zero, so rebuilding it was the only option.

Brian
03-18-2013 12:47 AM
gearheadslife nice write up..
sadly the parts to rebuild the last one I had to do (99 grand mark)
those parts cost as much as a new trw idler..
will rebuild the c-10 one when I get that far..
it's good that use showed this with hand tools and didn't just go to the body saw that not everyone has..
thats what I like about the show MUSCLE CAR.. on spike.
Tommie will use the shop tools that most home garage guys don't have.. then show you how to do the same thing with simple tools that most have or most can get for short cash...
stacy david does the same on gears...
is that bushing poly or rubber.. if poly I'd have added a zerk fitting while it was apart.. so when it squeaks you can grease it..

good show, tho..
03-17-2013 09:55 PM
MARTINSR
Rebuilding an idler arm how-to.

My 1959 American was wandering a bit (a lot actually) and I jacked it up to find that the idler arm was very loose, the rubber bushing had slid out and it was as loose as a goose. I had an extra from a parts car I got with my car and went at rebuilding it.

The rubber bushing simply comes apart leaving the metal bushing in the arm with the rubber all worn out and ready to be pushed out.



Using the vice with a large socket to hold the arm in place and a small socket to push the bushing out of the sleeve was a piece of cake.



I then put the arm in the vice and removed the blade from my hack saw and put it thru the bushing so I could cut it. The sleeve could have been pushed out too but it's wall was so thin I didn't have a perfect sized socket or the proper tool to push it out. So I decided to cut it.







I then put the bushing in the vice in such a way as to bend the bushing, caving it in so it can be pushed out of the idler arm.



With the bushing rolled up it came out easily.



I had a rubber bushing (not the correct one but close) and even though it was sold as a 1" OD it was a tad smaller than the darn idler's hole. Just a tad, it needed to be a tad larger so it would stay in there when pressed, but that wasn't going to happen so I went with a Pete & Jake hot rod bushing used in four bar setups on a street rod frame. This bushing fit perfectly tight in the idler arm and had the perfect sized ID for the idler arm mount. This is the one I used, 1" OD and 5/8" ID. Pete & Jake's: Catalog

Using a thick walled seamless bushing found at the hardware store I cut it to length and slid it over the idler arm mount so it would hold the idler arm at the exact 61/64" that it is to be set at as per the Rambler assembly manual. I included a washer so as to keep the idler on the bushing so it couldn't slide down as it had with the original rubber one.





I painted up the arm and had it ready to go when I found that the bushing didn't fit flush in tight, the arm was just a tad to thick, so I ground it down a bit until the bushing fit in all the way.





And with my newly rebuilt idler arm ready to go.



It worked perfect and the car drives much better than it has since I have had it.

Now it's on to the rest of the front end, I have the extra parts from the parts car so over the next number of months I will find the time to get it all rebuilt and install it one weekend.

Brian

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