|10-06-2013 02:50 AM|
|fstfish66||sounds like your idea of cutting and joining different rim halfs did what u needed,,,,thats american hot rodding,,,,|
|10-05-2013 11:30 AM|
40 Ply. R/P conversion
Thanks to fstfish66 for your response/ques. Bear with me, I'm new at this.Why no disc brakes; have 49 Chev w/drum, like them. Have 50 Chev. w/non pwr.disc/drum hate them. Got used to them after 14 yrs. Have too many projs. but thats not gonna change. May change my mind later but that'll be later. Cost/time enter into the equation also....
As for the wheels: I didn't narrow them myself. I do 90% of my own work and know when I need to seek professional help! A fabricator friend took my 15x7 Mopar Rally's and a pair of 15x5 1/2 Mopars I got off a junk late 60s/early 70s full size Mopar, cut them on his lathe, then welded the back half of the 51/2 rim to the front half of my rally rim, using a pipe "positioner", mig welder w/co2 gas.The results were a pair of 15x61/4 Mopar rims that no longer hit the tie rod end HARD! No wheel spacers needed; and all four rims look the same (are the same) on the outside.
A friend of mine with a 41 used spacers on his and had to deal with some serious tire rubbing. THanks again , 4950fmc Got a garage load of OOPSES!!!
|10-05-2013 01:58 AM|
wondering what you meen by you trimmed the rims your self ??
|10-02-2013 08:10 PM|
40 Ply. r+p conversion
My car, 4dr. p-10, solid body but still a major project. Have a 318, 904, 83/4 rear ready to go. Center dumps directly over steering box. Have a set of rear dump exhaust manifolds but haven't mocked things up so I don't know if they will work. Would be happy with the stock steering box but..... this is why Ive been looking into r+p set-ups. My major question is why do you have to go to disc brakes ? I'm sure this will need a new mstr. cyl.,prop. valve, pedal set up, etc. etc. The job keeps growing !
Picked up a set of 15inch Mopar rally wheels; had to narrow them by 3/4 inch off the inside, hit the tie rod end hard and didn't want to use any spacers (tire rub).Rims are 7 inch, this way all the rims will look the same with trim rings and dog dish caps.(68 mopars I think).
Still need some pieces of beltline molding, top rt. grille molding, trunk hinges, and some other pieces. I'm sure there will be more as I go along.
Am anxious to get powered up, am tired of pushing it around.
|08-31-2013 11:41 PM|
|fstfish66||what is the ply acclaim rack like ?? inner or outer tie rods ? i have a 40 dodge with the cav rack and pinion,,,,fat man kit,,was installed when i bought the car,,,the rack is too far forward,,and needs to be repositioned,, i may look in to a different rack,,,thanks for any info|
|03-21-2013 07:43 AM|
|firstname.lastname@example.org||Try looking at a Plymouth Acclaim/Dodge Spirit from the 90's for a rear steer rack and pinion assembly....You might have to fabricate the mounts yourself...no big deal...just be sure to overbuild for strength to prevent any surprises on the road....This should keep it all in the Mopar family.|
|03-20-2013 03:34 PM|
40 plymouth IFS
I have a 41 P11 resto with 318 and a 727. The IFS is servisable the original steering is lacking. I'm in the mood for rack and pinion but can't find anybody that makes the mounting hardware. This car is ALL MOPAR and will stay that way.
|03-15-2013 11:12 AM|
1948 chrysler cruiser
Hey guy..I also own a 1948 New Yorker...I took out the inline 8 and installed a SBC 400 cu. in. engine w/TH350....all this was done last summer working solo...haven't gotten it running yet, but it should go this summer...I like the idea of a Cavalier rack, but that will be after it gets driven for a while...have to install the aluminum radiator and fire it up for the first time....I also have a 1940 Plymouth P10 business coupe....that will be getting a beam axle and a v8 of some yet to be determined make....I like reading about your projects...just had to jump in and say something...good luck and keep posting....Mike S.
|05-03-2010 10:00 AM|
|48ChryslerRodder||I also have some good info on a couple of ways to do the front shock relocation.|
|05-03-2010 09:54 AM|
|48ChryslerRodder||Mine is a long term project. I have been collecting parts and ideas for the last 10 years. I am getting my garage in shape so I can work out there without having to half empty it to work. Every time I do I get people stopping by for my "garage sale" that is not. I found someone over on the HAMB site that makes weld in motor mounts for sbc's that look really nice and can be cut to fit. I have been collecting info and pictures from the web for a while so I have info on a variety of ways to do things on these cars. Send me a pm sometime and we can share ideas.|
|05-02-2010 02:46 PM|
Sounds like you're on exactly the same path as me.
My car is basically a resto-rod as well.
I have a 1991 caprice wagon with a 305 that is soon going to donate its motor and tranny to the '40 Plymouth.
Maybe we should swap "in progress" photos at some point. Unfortunately, I'm just in the beginning stages of my project.
|05-02-2010 01:02 PM|
|48ChryslerRodder||I am going to install a 305/700r4. I know it is not popular but I am thinking economy. I am going for a resto rod look. I want to upgrade the brakes, drive train and make it a safe cruiser.|
|04-30-2010 09:27 PM|
Thanks for all of the info 48CR.
That Cavalier rack makes a nice, clean swap.
What engine are you running in your 48?
|04-26-2010 05:52 PM|
|48ChryslerRodder||Hope this helps you. Just passing along knowledge that was shared with me. Many thanks to Kai who put this info together.|
|04-26-2010 05:49 PM|
Here is the rest of the info. I apologize for not have the pictures in between the relevant text sections. The pictures are numbered in the order that they were in the document file. If any one would like this sent to them it is 1.5 meg abytes and will be a very long down load on dial up. Just drop me a PM and I will send it to you. Many thanks to Kai for sharing this with me and I hope he doesn't mind my passing this along.
The above adaptor I made.
Cut 3 ˝ inches off the right hand thread end of the tri-rods.
Drill and tap; the cut off end (leaving the original right hand threads intact) to metric 18 X 1.5 to accept the original Cavalier adjusting screw. This make an adjusting device of left hand for the Cavalier tie rod and the right hand tie rod end original from the MoPar. I cut about an inch off the end of the tie rod end to allow enough of the thing to fit in the end. Tack weld the Cavalier adjusting sleeve to the 3 ˝ cut off piece.
The adapter plates are made from Ľ in plate and 1” square tubing. The tubing is offset to allow the rubber to fit.
The above has the special Fatman adapter and Datson tie rod ends.
This is my tie rod end and adapter installed
The below pics are what I patterned my modification of the steering shaft after cutting off the steering box with a “sawzall”
This is the power steering pump mount I used from Ugly Truckling, here id the website. It has the instructions when you go to this site.
The hoses I made from 3/8 braided hose. You can have them made at any shop that makes hoses for tractors and the like. I would suggest that when you get the rack make sure you get the hoses too.
From the junkyard you need the total rack and pinion steering,(tie rods, hoses, adjusting sleeves, and the mounting brackets)
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