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Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > General Discussion> Projects/Builds/My Ride> '33 Ford Tudor Sedan build
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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-27-2013 02:02 PM
sedanbob Thanks Janie - kind words. Took a little over 4 1/2 years. Color is from a Toyota Highlander (around '06) - Sonora gold pearl.
03-26-2013 10:54 PM
janie's dirty 37
Wow! That is amazzzzing
Steller workmanship and I am so diggin that color.

Janice
03-23-2013 09:17 PM
sedanbob Latest shot of the dash.
03-01-2013 11:29 AM
sedanbob I borrowed a set of wheels from my son-in-law that were 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern, but forgot about the backspacing. The fronts we had to stack washers on the lugs to space them out so they wouldn't rub, but we couldn't get the back wheels anywhere close. The wheels were from his Mustang and had way to much backspacing to fit. I borrowed the back set from Redneck for the trip home.
03-01-2013 11:19 AM
sedanbob Some of the earlier pictures were too large and wouldn't upload. Here is the chassis/body loaded on the trailer coming home from Redneck at the beginning of the build, a shot of the interior panels they offer, and a shot of the grille from Alumicraft.
02-27-2013 08:47 PM
sedanbob Another couple pieces - I added a 3rd brake light. I molded a bump on the rear window garnish molding to hold a strip LED. It shows at the bottom of the read window, but doesn't show when it isn't lit because of the tinted glass. The gas tank cover I had was intended to mount a rear bumper, but I didn't want bumpers, so I mounted oval back-up lights on the 'frog eyes' where the bumper would have mounted. I used side marker repeater lights off a Ford Explorer, swapping the yellow bulbs for clear.
02-27-2013 03:32 PM
sedanbob A couple of tips: Factory steering columns with shifters usually have a neutral start switch built in. These are usually missing on aftermarkte columns. Although they don't advertise it, Ididit will add a neutral start switch to a column for not much money - just tell them how high/low you want it on the column. That switch also includes a terminal for backup lights, should you want them (I did).

Grommets for passing wires through a panel are usually designed for thin sheet metal - when wiring a fiberglass car, often the panel is much thicker and not always even all the way around. A short section of rubber hose glued into the hole makes a good grommet and provides some strain-relief at the same time.
02-27-2013 03:07 PM
sedanbob Interior was posted recently, but I'll repeat some of it here. Seat frames and foam came from Wise Guys. We sent them the fabric and they made the covers as well. Rear seat is a front seat from a coupe, which gives me a tilting/reclining back. My battery box is back there, and some room for storage (probably a toolbox).
02-27-2013 02:29 PM
sedanbob Battery box behind the back seat and remote charging terminals mounted under the gas tank cover. Made a fiberglass bracket that hooked over the rear spreader bar - cables go up through the floor next to the battery box. A local exhaust shop ran the pipes. We reduced from the 2 1/2" coming out of the headers to 2 1/4" to make the turns a little easier, then back up to 2 1/2" for the Hushpower mufflers and out the back. Got these grommets from Street Rods by Michael, and made my own brackets to hang the exhaust.
02-27-2013 02:04 PM
sedanbob Some miscellaneous stuff - coolant recovery, hood hinges, remote brake reservoir. I made a cover for the e-brake mechanism that hangs under the floor - simple fiberglass laid over a block of pink foam - hopefully will keep all that cleaner.
02-27-2013 01:46 PM
sedanbob Out of sequence, but here's the steering linkage. Had to add a pivot in the middle to clear the exhaust. Fittings are mostly from Borgeson, one from Flaming River - stainless double-d shaft. Don't cut them until you know exactly where your steering column will be mounted. Especially if the shift lever hits the head in Park, making you move the column 1/2" in - thereby making your freshly cut double-d shaft 1/2" too short! Or so I've heard... Each section is assembled, jamb bolts snugged enough to mark the shaft, then drilled to recess the jamb bolts into the shaft. That makes it an interference fit, not just friction, to keep that all together. Locktite on the bolts and their locking nuts to make sure it stays together.
02-27-2013 01:33 PM
sedanbob More paint pics:
02-27-2013 01:29 PM
sedanbob Fast Eddies took it from there to finish the paint. They also had to fit the new hood from Hagen - not hard since it was custom made from the pattern we sent.
02-27-2013 01:22 PM
sedanbob Master painter/bodyman/all-around good guy Mark Beard shot the epoxy while I tried to stay out of his way. Nice to see it go from scuffed to nice and smooth, even if it is an ugly yellow/green!
02-27-2013 01:18 PM
sedanbob Took the car back down to Fast Eddies - under their expert tutelage I worked there two weeks on getting all the gaps right, and addressing any low/high spots, and getting the body, fenders, grille shell, et cetera ready for epoxy primer. Got it shot then turned it over to them for color, clear, cut and buff. In the midst of that, we discovered that the Rootlieb hood I bought was too short from beltline to beltline - no easy/cheap fix, so I sold that hood, and had a custom one made by Hagen (oddly enough the same cost as the Rootlieb). For those of you who have done this sort of thing before, a side note: There is less than one quart of filler in this entire car - it was that straight!
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