|Today 04:34 PM|
all told 6 hours of work not technically hard but it was a lot of work. i had one piece i could use as a guide. still need to get some p clips and other hard ware. decided to move the P clip of the differential back to the 11:00 position.
|Today 01:36 PM|
brake time....anti sieze on everything
|Yesterday 10:53 PM|
bounced around some tonight, started by painting bottom of frame where i had welded in the nuts for the floor, then moved to taking out some of the seat tracks on a set of seat bottoms unitl i couldnt get the screws and bolts seperated so they are soaking, then moved to clean up brake brass...oh and the best part Team Evil donated a mirror and vent for the scuttle!!!! thks
i think tomorrow i lay out some brake lines
|12-11-2013 09:54 PM|
circling back to where the floor board madness started
I drilled the hole for the E brake cable and hydraulic line
for the ebrake cable 3/8 P clip
that gives a really nice arch
every once and a while I do buy clips
mocked up the M/C i guess i will clear coat this since i will be using silicone fluid
and I treated my self this time and bought the preterminated lines. i am running out of things to do on the frame/chassis i guess this is next
|12-10-2013 02:48 PM|
same routine for the pushrods except I welded only on one side of the hole and used a file and then a drill
painted and ready to final drill and install, I suspect the clevis are 5/16 but who know these days with all the different suppliers
|12-10-2013 12:46 PM|
snow day today so that means garage time .....
where we left off
easy way to clean things up
lets get some reference measurements from the thbest one
clean up the inside to shiney steel
grind the outside an fill up the hole
get this right
and number 2
same process again and drilled to 19/64s i will do a final cut when i have the new clevis in my hands
|12-09-2013 07:56 PM|
I trully do like the fabrication aspects of the restoration, making that temp scuttle was a lot of fun for me.
I got some electrical goodies today so spent some time looking and figuring..
real battery cable #1 welding wire
old vs new
any body know if the rear wire harness is bigger then a rectangular 1/4 x 1/2" opening...if so i will be making some new double P clips
this is a sweet fit 1/2" insulated single p clip. i will use this at the end where the battery cable has a p clip on one of the floor board screws
so lets play around with terminating the ends on the old scrap cable becasue of the gauge difference the scrap piece had the insulation still on it. it would have shrink wrap on it for the final version
i havent done this in a while and with most things its takes a couple of practice trys to remember how to do it.
i tried pulling this apart by clamping it in the vise and i could not pull it apart
|12-08-2013 08:30 PM|
well the temp scuttle is done with the exception of the final painting. this attaches to any MGA using all original mounting points and this totally breaks apart including the frame and will stow in a 28"x 28"x10" box and weighs maybe 20 lbs. its really sturdy I was manhandling it pretty well in every dimension and its strong and doesnt distort.
added an internal box so the bolt doesnt collapse
|12-08-2013 04:14 PM|
had a chance to work a little more today on the mock up fhte temp scuttle
just a piece of scrap metal
grind off the coating using an old flap wheel
I know I weld stuff up like it was nothing but what might not be evident to the rest of you is the protection I wear depending on the position I have to be in
heres the welded bracket to the square tubing, what missing is the picture of the holes i drilled to mount the bracket to the steering column bracket, i will add that later
heres the next project
I might have to add a brace time to go back out and finish this up
|12-03-2013 10:50 PM|
dont ever say an Austin Healey never gave anything to an MGA.....those pieces of sheet steel which are now mounting tabs are from the frame of an AH 3000
|12-03-2013 02:21 PM|
simple braced frame, use blue tape and level to make sure every thing is nice and square.
I will make a mounting plate to attach these together with two bolts/nuts
the drivers side is flush since all the side part of the scuttle gives some nice rigidity to that side of the scuttle, the pass side is about 3/4" proud of the scuttle which will allow me to brace it to the top of the goal post if i need to pick up some more rigidity
and it occurred to me that I should probably assemble the brake pedal bracketry since that is fairly substantial and then put the "feet" on my "legs" to attach them to the nearest mounting point.
|12-01-2013 01:01 PM|
got a chance to get the second spray on it today, never got to wet sand it though.
the sun is washing the color out,
|11-30-2013 12:14 PM|
first two coats we will let this dry a good long time and then wet sand the top with 600 and give it a third coat, after the third coat i will buff it then spray the clear coat on it. this is the actual body color and it is lacquer
|11-27-2013 06:41 PM|
easy hour tonight trimed up the scuttle a little bit and took a grinder to all the edges. removed all the misc stuff on the fire wall and wire brushed the it on both sides, painted the underside of the scuttle with Jasco metal prep and primer. idea is to paint this the new body color.
|11-26-2013 08:14 PM|
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