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Topic Review (Newest First)
Yesterday 07:01 PM
37ford4dr well I just kept sanding away.....using 220 and 400 paper. the door skin definitely has movement to it so it was a little tricky but I let the different layers of paint/primer filler etc reveal the path, I don't need perfection I just don't want it to be wavy, so I used 220 on a DA and kept looking for the high spots and once I got them down I followed with 400 wet sanding






followed by a coat of self etching primer that I must have forgotten to take a picture of and then gray primer.



this got hit with some 600 grit paper and then wiped down with a cleaner and I only got one coat of top coat on it before the rain came.



this is perfect though it will let me eye ball it really well tomorrow in the sun and see if I improved the situation. last time the unevenness popped right out at after the first coat of paint. This time I cant see any problems.
09-02-2015 08:38 PM
37ford4dr first for the frightfully sad photos of my buddies engine....and if you have a weak stomach don't look....think of the valve float going on when you do a 7k rpm shift accidentally into a lower gear....

corvette Z 06 race engine ( that's a bad *** corvette for racing)



look at 5:30 and 6:30 in the water jacket, along with the piston gouge, that my friends is a cracked water jacket and a $12k boat anchor





ok now to my task at hand, I think every car project should have at least 18 wire wheels.....the sickness must be deep inside of us, to accumulate so many wheels...especially when what I really want is knock off minilights......so the 4 wire wheels that came with the car were nothing more then an enabler for rolling the car around, in fact two of them are loose on the hubs. so I got 14 wire wheels from a couple of forum members in the hopes of mixing and matching to come up with a nice set. PennieH set me up with the wheels that came off of her running car when she upgraded to new wire wheels and new hubs. these wheels with older matching tires will let me adjust the alignment and make the car be able to actually move about which was exactly what I was hoping for, making my chassis drivable around the neighborhood, and was a perfect fit for my need, thanks. so that left me with another 10 wire wheels, so we got out the dial indicator and started measuring all the 18 wheels..... Moss says the run out should be less then .055, well lets just say that between the run out and the splines being good enough to use I may be buying those mininlights sooner then I expected. it just doesn't seem to make any sense to buy spokes to replace missing and bent ones, try to true the wheels, buy tubes and tires and have them mounted and balanced when what I really want is minilights. so the junk wheels are getting sent to the metal recycler and the other wheels that are close enough for someone to make right will get passed along.



now this weekend I am going to try to get the two front fenders painted, the door that needed some more sanding painted and the inner fender splash guards painted

so we are going to sand the door and look for low spots



those red spots in side the gray spots are the low spots and the doors will need more sanding, needless to say I am not sure now I missed those spots but I think the door skin may have been flexing on me when I sanded it before. its no big deal we will just fix it now

08-16-2015 05:40 PM
37ford4dr well squeaked out another 1.5 hrs of work tonight painting inner side of boot and bonnet and put seam sealer on rear fender patch





first coat



final coat of paint , clear coat will be done when the I do the last coat of clear on the top side after color sanding.






seam sealer


07-28-2015 11:27 AM
Loose Ctrl
Quote:
Originally Posted by 37ford4dr View Post
loose ctrl

very nice on the bike turn signals.....I cant take credit for coming up with the idea only following the well written instructions from Barney Gaylord the MGA guru. it was a fun project

Thanks.I used the musings of another as well.
07-27-2015 08:15 PM
37ford4dr loose ctrl

very nice on the bike turn signals.....I cant take credit for coming up with the idea only following the well written instructions from Barney Gaylord the MGA guru. it was a fun project
07-27-2015 01:51 PM
Loose Ctrl
Quote:
Originally Posted by 37ford4dr View Post
this is the turn signal relay ,this car has one rear light with the dual filament bulb,one filament for lights and one for brake/turn signal , this is the relay so the brake lights get interrupted when braking and using the turn signal. it also seperately uses the regular style cylindrical three prong flasher to make the turn signal flash
I see now.You basically repaired and upgraded the original unit so as to keep it looking original.That's a spiffy idea.I used a similar idea for the rear lights on my motorcycle.I used mini relays.Before I had signal lights only and my tail light had the brake and driving lights.I converted my 1156 signals over to 1157 dual filament sockets with bulbs.Now I have full lighting in the rear.here's my video.

https://youtu.be/leUsNuG6QYA
07-27-2015 10:25 AM
37ford4dr
Quote:
Originally Posted by Loose Ctrl View Post
That's so cool.Is this the charging regulator rectifier relay,or power distribution relay?


this is the turn signal relay ,this car has one rear light with the dual filament bulb,one filament for lights and one for brake/turn signal , this is the relay so the brake lights get interrupted when braking and using the turn signal. it also seperately uses the regular style cylindrical three prong flasher to make the turn signal flash
07-26-2015 04:55 PM
Loose Ctrl That's so cool.Is this the charging regulator rectifier relay,or power distribution relay?
07-26-2015 03:55 PM
37ford4dr all the soldering is done and now to test the relays to see if they work.....and they do



and done with the hard part now just to clean up the screw in connectors
07-26-2015 02:17 PM
37ford4dr good time to post some pictures on todays efforts while the epoxy is drying



cut and stripped to length with a black mark on end that's goes to the base




I cut mine more flush and closer to the plate then Barney did and he used a slot to solder the wire where I used the tab. ( why you ask because I skipped reading his first page, if I were to do it again I would do it his way it makes soldering easier) I did leave in place the bottom of the magnetic coils and just trimmed them, with the grinder




epoxyed in place



sand, prime and paint the top cover in a stainless steel paint







now back to finishing the project
07-25-2015 04:23 PM
37ford4dr when momma was out I slipped in a little work in, making an old relay into new style relay. I am following Barneys write up and I used a grinder with a thin cut off wheel.











and the final trial fit

06-28-2015 06:37 PM
zuffen I'm sure that brings a smile to your face.

Getting colour on panels is a sign you're close to the end.
06-28-2015 04:33 PM
496CHEVY3100 Like tht coor ,looking great.
06-28-2015 03:51 PM
37ford4dr the goal today was to paint the two rear fenders and doors, but after the first coat of paint one of the doors I stopped painting that one because I saw some dings, I am not looking for perfection but you cant ignore the big things.

an easy way to hold the filter



why did I think there would be no more welding? two pin holes





tent city











everything got primed with high build primer and then wet sanded with 400
first coat


three coats or base and three coats of gloss








06-27-2015 05:51 PM
37ford4dr thanks, my 1954 TF had the wood.....I know it well

rain rain rain.....a make shift canopy so the blowing rain wouldn't invade the garage and to give me some more work space

two tasks today.....make doors flat....and remove rear fenders





yes that's water











we are on track for some painting tomorrow....
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