Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board - Reply to Topic
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior> JB weld as body filler ?
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Thread: JB weld as body filler ? Reply to Thread
Title:
  
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Topic Review (Newest First)
04-12-2013 11:38 PM
rodgrdodger
Quote:
Originally Posted by dogwater View Post
After using J B weld on the back glass channel I painted all the way around the channel with epoxy primer with a small paint brush. I did that because it looks like water can seep between the glass an the trim an stand in the channel, being J B weld is non-hygroscopic it seem to be the best protection from more damage. I did the same thing on the t-top channels as they were pitted also. Just wanted to be sure of having a good seal.
Good point well made sir! I agree too, JB Weld is a strong bonding and sealing product. I have used it for pin holes and small pitted ares that after properly cleaning the spots lasted forever.
04-12-2013 10:59 PM
rodgrdodger
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin316 View Post
Nothing to do with paint and repairs but there is a place for that "type" of filler.

I used a two part product called Epo Strong for filler on my frame and transmission housing before powder coating. Regular filler isn't conductive so it can't be used. I have thought about using it for filler in places like the firewall.
Thats a good point that its not conductive for a powdercote procedure.
04-12-2013 09:31 PM
Kevin316 Nothing to do with paint and repairs but there is a place for that "type" of filler.

I used a two part product called Epo Strong for filler on my frame and transmission housing before powder coating. Regular filler isn't conductive so it can't be used. I have thought about using it for filler in places like the firewall.
04-12-2013 07:42 AM
MARTINSR
Quote:
Originally Posted by dogwater View Post
Yes,glass is out. 78 Camaro Z28 w/t-tops. When I bought this car it had been sitting under a larger oak tree for about 4 years. When it would rain all that water would continue to fall on the car from the tree. I did have to patch in some steel in the channel about 10 in. long. Had pitting on both sides of where water worked it way between the channel an sealant.
One thing you shouldn't do is put ANY filler down on the pinch weld where the urethane bed is applied to bond the glass in. That metal should be sand blasted, epoxy primed and NOT painted. You want the window to be held in by the urethane and epoxy primer not bc/cc or bondo or jb weld.

And believe me, EVERY one of those sixties and seventies GM cars has had rust in the window channels front and rear. Heck, back 20 years ago I did a LOT of them and they were a lot newer than they are now, they were STILL rusted in those channels every time. It was a horrible design with the channels getting filled up with water and no where to go. On a 64 Riv once I made drains out of brake tubing in the corners and ran a rubber hose out the bottom of the quarter panel, worked pretty neat.

Brian
04-12-2013 06:45 AM
dogwater Yes,glass is out. 78 Camaro Z28 w/t-tops. When I bought this car it had been sitting under a larger oak tree for about 4 years. When it would rain all that water would continue to fall on the car from the tree. I did have to patch in some steel in the channel about 10 in. long. Had pitting on both sides of where water worked it way between the channel an sealant.
04-10-2013 08:24 AM
MARTINSR
Quote:
Originally Posted by dogwater View Post
After using J B weld on the back glass channel I painted all the way around the channel with epoxy primer with a small paint brush. I did that because it looks like water can seep between the glass an the trim an stand in the channel, being J B weld is non-hygroscopic it seem to be the best protection from more damage. I did the same thing on the t-top channels as they were pitted also. Just wanted to be sure of having a good seal.
We all have ideas that can be of value, but you have realize that there are many people on this forum who have done this stuff as a living for decades and every one of them would say do not do what you are doing. You may think it's the cats meow but JB weld is NOT the product to use there. It may "work" with the way you have described if the metal was cleaned properly before it's applied but it is MUCH harder to work with and MUCH more expensive than products made for such a purpose.

In your description it sounds like you left the glass in there, please tell me you pulled the glass out to do those repairs. And what is the make model and year of the car you are working on. Many cars for years thru the sixties, seventies and eighties had a urethane bedded glass with a chrome moulding over the top. That chrome moulding did more than allow some water to "seep" in. The moulding does NOTHING to keep water out and it is in fact designed for the water to go right in there with no fight at all.

Brian
04-10-2013 07:04 AM
dogwater After using J B weld on the back glass channel I painted all the way around the channel with epoxy primer with a small paint brush. I did that because it looks like water can seep between the glass an the trim an stand in the channel, being J B weld is non-hygroscopic it seem to be the best protection from more damage. I did the same thing on the t-top channels as they were pitted also. Just wanted to be sure of having a good seal.
04-10-2013 06:35 AM
deadbodyman Not to long ago I had a life long bodyman explain to me that me "self etching" finishing putty means you dont have to sand the paint before filling a ding....
There was no telling him otherwise....
04-09-2013 08:40 PM
rodgrdodger There is no replacement for common sense!
04-09-2013 07:37 PM
37hemidodge
Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
What it takes is simply trying to improve, if one puts in a little effort it is amazing how much one can improve. When I started messing around on the net, typing and English were as far out of my world as you could get. It just wasn't what I had been interested in, it just wasn't me. I spent my time perfecting my autobody and paint skills on the job and my spare time went to perfecting my guitar and singing.

I got on the net and just fumbled. What I did to work on it was to write my posts in an email first and check spelling and punctuation and ask my wife (who is a English master) and make sure I did it right as to not look like I was as dumb as I am. So I worked and worked on it forcing myself to type correctly with all my fingers and forcing myself to spell correctly (well most of the time) and in a short time I had you guys all fooled into thinking I wasn't a hack.

Brian
Lol that's the funniest thing ever.Even with spell check I still ask the wife
04-09-2013 06:38 PM
rodgrdodger Thats interesting too.I like JB weld it has many practical uses and bonds tightly to bare steel. I agree with old timer, I would like to bondo do that!
04-09-2013 06:13 PM
Old Fool Mid 70's we used JB Weld to stuff crankcases on 2 stroke engines to increase the primary compression ratio
Never was aware of any failures with the procedure.
04-09-2013 01:33 PM
rodgrdodger
Quote:
Originally Posted by tech69 View Post
school of hard hacks?
As long as you KILL the rust first after sanding and wire wheeling to clean out pitted area's ,your fine. After I clean out pitted area's I then proceed to KILL rust using a red scotch brite pad and VINEGAR WATER MIX 3 parts water to 1 part WHITE VINEGAR scuffing hard into the pitted area for a minute. Let sit for 10 minutes come back and wipe residue off with clean fresh water and paper towel's. the rust will turn BLACK.You KILLED it and it will not grow back. Then use what ever you want to fill over with. This will protect and PRESERVE the car and paint job for another 20 years.

I agree,replacing panels is no fun and In my OPINION, takes away the car's original production BUILD. Alot of people replace all quarter's and door's and fender's then they say its an original survivor but we know it has been destroyed. I prefeer to PRESERVE the whole car if possible!
That mean's treating rusted area's (KILL IT) The car feels right you know.
04-09-2013 01:31 PM
rodgrdodger
Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
I'm with the others. Been in this business for over 30 years, done all kinds of stuff and NEVER would I have ever used JB as a "Body filler". There are MANY different products on the market and have been for years that are DESIGNED to be used as a body filler.

There are "reinforced" fillers like Evercoats "Everglass" and "All Metal" and many, MANY others that will do the job with a LOT less money and work.

Brian
As long as you KILL the rust first after sanding and wire wheeling to clean out pitted area's ,your fine. After I clean out pitted area's I then proceed to KILL rust using a red scotch brite pad and VINEGAR WATER MIX 3 parts water to 1 part WHITE VINEGAR scuffing hard into the pitted area for a minute. Let sit for 10 minutes come back and wipe residue off with clean fresh water and paper towel's. the rust will turn BLACK.You KILLED it and it will not grow back. Then use what ever you want to fill over with. This will protect and PRESERVE the car and paint job for another 20 years.

I agree,replacing panels is no fun and In my OPINION, takes away the car's original production BUILD. Alot of people replace all quarter's and door's and fender's then they say its an original survivor but we know it has been destroyed. I prefeer to PRESERVE the whole car if possible!
That mean's treating rusted area's (KILL IT) The car feels right you know.
04-09-2013 01:20 PM
rodgrdodger interesting.
This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:44 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.