|07-14-2014 01:47 PM|
. Don't need to tear into engine to determine if 1 or 2 piece rear main seal...
. earlier 2 piece seal crankshaft rear end has a counterweight cast onto it...
. 1986 & up (later in some trucks) 1 piece rear seal crankshaft is smaller at rear end and round to allow slipping into a 1 piece rubber seal and thus can have NO counterweight cast onto it...
. 1986 SBC in some vehicles is a hybrid engine with newer (possibly roller cam ready) shortblock/crank, but still earlier perimeter (2 + 2) bolt valve cover heads... (as opposed to newer 4 bolts in line valve covers/heads)
. Mexican crate engines of any year are all crappy early 1970's design... 7.6:1 actual compression ratio... (can be fixed with good pistons)
|07-08-2014 01:30 PM|
|07-08-2014 09:16 AM|
|07-08-2014 06:10 AM|
|07-07-2014 09:46 PM|
Most gaskets sets cover this by providing oil pan side gaskets with a "knock-out" section to accommodate the passenger side dipstick location in the same set. Sometimes they will use 3 different oil pan rail gaskets, a drivers side, and two different passenger side gaskets in the same full gasket set.
|07-07-2014 07:14 PM|
|1971BB427||Since all the early 1955-85 gasket sets come with both pan end gaskets (thick and thin) and side gaskets can be flipped to work for either side, then the differences don't mean much during those years.|
|07-07-2014 07:07 PM|
1) Pans have different heights to the timing cover Straight edge on gasket rail to bottom of arc:
1.A.) 2-1/4 thin, these will all be drivers (left) side dip stick and 2 pc RMS. will production years 1955 through 1974.
1.B) 2-3/8 thick, these are more complex;
1.B.A) 1975 through 1979 will be left side dip stick and 2 pc RMS.
1.B.B) 1980 through 1985 will be passenger (right) side dip stick and 2 pc RMS
1.B.C) 1986 through end of SBC Gen I, II production will be right side dip stick and 1 pc RMS.
If you know the month of the engine's assembly toward the change over previous year it is not uncommon for late production say 1979 to have a 1980 block and pan, so check before you buy parts if your toward the end of the production year which is the late spring to early summer before the September/October release of the new years production.
|07-07-2014 05:40 PM|
Most sources I've seen say that the serial number on a crate engine is just a serial number, and not an indication of when it was built, like engines that came in cars new. CE (US built) and ML (Mexico built) were used as prefixes on crate engines. I'd guess you're correct that the VL is also a crate engine designation, but can't say from where it was used. If you could look the block over, and possibly find a Mexico cast into it somewhere, that might answer where. Afraid you wont be able to answer the year without disassembling it.
Once it's torn down you can determine if it's 1955-85 or 1986 and newer by the rear main seal. If it's 2 piece it's early '85 or older, and 1 piece is 1986 or later.
|07-07-2014 05:22 PM|
Here is a picture of the front tag.
|07-06-2014 07:14 PM|
Haven't heard of the gasket cutoff dates you're referring to before? Every set I've purchased or seen was either 1955-1986, or 1986 to end. Take a look at the Fel Pro kit. It shows applications from 1955-85.
|07-06-2014 12:40 PM|
General Motors Blue
The chevy red was an early color used on some of the 1950's 265 and 283's
Then the chevy orange used from late 50's to mid 70's
Around 77 they used the chevy blue on 350's and 400's, and used GM blue on the 305's
The GM blue was a lighter blue, but not as light as pont. blue. Chevy blue was a dark blue
That lasted till 1982, then everything went black.
If you want to ID the engine do not trust color. Anything can be re painted any color you want it.
Get the suffix code of the front pass side of block in front of head on machined pad..
And the casting # off the driver side rear of block, behind head on flange that trans bolts to.
|07-06-2014 09:25 AM|
vl block suffix
Hello, I too have a small bock Chevy engine that has the VL stamped on the block. Mine is VL041800. When I bought the car, it had Target Master decals on the valve covers. Problem is, the engine was built by Dr. Frankenstein. The engine was poorly painted all black. But the block was showing Chevy blue underneath, the intake was the original Chevy orange and the heads were black. The cast number on the back is illegible, so I am lost.
Have you had any luck in identifying the block, as there isn't any listing for VL in any list I have seen, and your post is the only thing on the internet I could find.
|04-26-2013 10:41 PM|
|dodgeboy12008||Ok, Ill have to look. But, what if it is a 2 or 3? That wont tell me if its 72 or 82, correct?|
|04-24-2013 10:26 PM|
|richard stewart 3rd||
The "V" is a Flint engine.
Small block casting date is located on driver side rear of block on flange forward of bellhousing. Big block on the right side of engine above the oil pan rails.
Casting Date Example: E038 - (E = Month, 03 = Day, 8 = Last digit of model year (1978)).
Month: A = Jan, B = Feb, C = Mar, D = Apr, E = May, F = Jun, G = July, H = Aug, I = Sep, J = Oct, K = Nov, L = Dec
|04-24-2013 09:38 PM|
|dodgeboy12008||This is the hand stamped number on the pass side front, vl112832. The block casting number, 14016379, spans from 78 through the 80s so it doesnt help with the gasket kit split.|
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