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Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior> Need help flange tool/lap welds &cutting straight panels.
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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-09-2013 06:16 AM
deadbodyman The HF Flanger /punch is pretty decient ,I've been using my for a few years although the little pin that holds the handle on kept falling out an the handle would fall off, when I got tired enough of that I simply welded a tiny bead at both ends of the pin and it never gave me another moment of trouble...
.
Tech,the punch hole is the same size on all these flanger tools it is too small for a good plug weld ,a simple way to remidy this is punch two holes overlapping each other so it looks like an 8 insted of a o ......works great....
05-08-2013 12:44 PM
tech69 i think the harbor freight flanger is an ok tool. the hole puncher hole is just too darn small and doesn't let you set the hole deep enough into the panel, but you can fix that with a cutt off wheel and grinding away some metal, and it's harbor freight so who cares. i'd recommend the harbor freight flanger, it's a decent tool. if you don't do this everyday why spend on pricey tools? i wouldn't.
05-08-2013 08:14 AM
MARTINSR
Quote:
Originally Posted by cutthroatkid View Post
Thanks I always butt weld but it seems like it has its place.I first noticed em@harbor freight then eastwood &eastwood&hf stuff seems to be the exact same tools just with a diffrent label.Anyways ill grab one of each that they have
Harbor freight has VERY few quality tools made by quality manufacturers like Eastwood would have. I have bought a lot of these sort of tools from Eastwood and they were all high quality. I think the ratio is exactly flip flop with the two. About 80-90% of Eastwood is high quality with 10-20 being poor, Harbor freight is flipped with the 80-90 being poor. They sell COPIES of quality tools, made poorly is generally what I have found. I seriously doubt that any tool is the same as found elsewhere with simply a different name on it, it is a cheap copy of that other one, that's all.

Every time I post this opinion I get a bunch of people telling me I am wrong but then post their opinion and it's the same as mine! Yes I have bought a few that performed well for what I wanted, my air stapler that I bought to do my convertible top, it performed perfectly and I saved a lot of money. On the flip side the "impact" sockets I bought were absolutely worthless. I don't buy much there because what I see is junk, so I can't do a review on the junk I didn't buy. I say spend the money on quality tools that you have any idea you will be using for years, or that you want to perform at a high level, it's money well spent.

Brian
05-08-2013 12:28 AM
cutthroatkid thanks all I really do appreciate all of your fellas help.
05-04-2013 11:02 AM
cutthroatkid Thanks I always butt weld but it seems like it has its place.I first noticed em@harbor freight then eastwood &eastwood&hf stuff seems to be the exact same tools just with a diffrent label.Anyways ill grab one of each that they have
05-04-2013 09:50 AM
BigMo Oh crap.....EastWOOD, sorry, fingers goin too fast.....
05-04-2013 09:49 AM
BigMo several companies make the flangers......Eastman, TIP, Northern, almost any metal working or repair supplier with have these.....Ive used them extensively over the years and IMHO its the way to go when needing strength at the seam.....Im pretty good at the butt welding gig now using a Tig torch to lay nice flat low temp hits
05-02-2013 08:21 AM
tech69
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
There's three flange tools to get .The air flanger/punch, The hand flanger made from a pair of vice grips, these are great for straight stuff but what about flanging a curved surface,say a 55-57 headlight bucket or something similar?
for that theres a special flanger that has two wheels and you turn it with a ratchet wrench kinda like a can opener works the round wheels wont flatten the curve and you can also have round corners...if using a ratchet takes to long you can use an air ratchet to speed things up.
Everyones heard of the old saying "measure twice cut once"
my saying is "dont measure unless you have too"...
I'll show you some of my tricks (when I have more time) for getting perfect fitting patches without any measuring at all, its simple and FAST but most important a perfect fit every time...You WILL need a sharpie.....
got a link to one of those flangers? I'm interested.
05-02-2013 06:05 AM
deadbodyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by cutthroatkid View Post
Thanks all for all of the wonderful info.I've been doing butt welds in for awhile,cab corneres,rockeres etc.I think I'm gonna buy tht flange&punch tool.
There's three flange tools to get .The air flanger/punch, The hand flanger made from a pair of vice grips, these are great for straight stuff but what about flanging a curved surface,say a 55-57 headlight bucket or something similar?
for that theres a special flanger that has two wheels and you turn it with a ratchet wrench kinda like a can opener works the round wheels wont flatten the curve and you can also have round corners...if using a ratchet takes to long you can use an air ratchet to speed things up.
Everyones heard of the old saying "measure twice cut once"
my saying is "dont measure unless you have too"...
I'll show you some of my tricks (when I have more time) for getting perfect fitting patches without any measuring at all, its simple and FAST but most important a perfect fit every time...You WILL need a sharpie.....
05-01-2013 11:35 AM
tech69
Quote:
Originally Posted by gearheadslife View Post
isn't placing the new metal over the old and scribing, making use of a template?
yeah, minus the marker and soda can boxes.
05-01-2013 11:00 AM
cutthroatkid Thanks all for all of the wonderful info.I've been doing butt welds in for awhile,cab corneres,rockeres etc.I think I'm gonna buy tht flange&punch tool.
05-01-2013 10:47 AM
gearheadslife
Quote:
Originally Posted by tech69 View Post
I think it depends on the situation. if it's a big complicated piece than a template is a way to go. If it's just a small patch you cut it out, file the edges, then use a sharpie to trace it. Thing is, not all patches are gonna come out nicely in one piece.

So that brings me to another option...just laying metal on top and scribing around the metal. This way always leaves a perfect fit and worked well for me the last time I used it, which was on a 55 rocker. The shape would be a little bit of work to do yourself so I just laid the piece on top, used a forgiving and soft hammer face to shape it into the old, then scribed and cut it out. it was a piece of cake. Those are my three main go to's. It makes it easy, but yeah, a template works well.
isn't placing the new metal over the old and scribing, making use of a template?
05-01-2013 10:30 AM
tech69 I think it depends on the situation. if it's a big complicated piece than a template is a way to go. If it's just a small patch you cut it out, file the edges, then use a sharpie to trace it. Thing is, not all patches are gonna come out nicely in one piece.

So that brings me to another option...just laying metal on top and scribing around the metal. This way always leaves a perfect fit and worked well for me the last time I used it, which was on a 55 rocker. The shape would be a little bit of work to do yourself so I just laid the piece on top, used a forgiving and soft hammer face to shape it into the old, then scribed and cut it out. it was a piece of cake. Those are my three main go to's. It makes it easy, but yeah, a template works well.
05-01-2013 10:25 AM
gearheadslife
Quote:
Originally Posted by cutthroatkid View Post
First off thanks everyone except the ******r.Can you please explain more to me about backing behind a weld?Also I'm guessing there's no way to flange a weld if you can get to the panel from the backside?
the bet way 99% of the time is make a template, either with paper or cardboard and A MARKER..
wasn't being funny, it's the way it's been done for years
05-01-2013 10:12 AM
tech69 here's a hinge pocket where it's flanged up top but an open butt weld everywhere else. If you look close the edges are beveled where it lays over the flange. Flanging helps stuff stay straight and adds strength.


Here's another one. If I did this today I would probably open butt weld it but I'm sure the flange helped keep everything lined up nice.
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