|05-07-2013 06:35 AM|
I have a small shop but SPI is all I use.... anytime I've ever called, Barry answears the phone and remembers my name and talks to me like I'm some kind of big time shop owner...Hes about 4hrs away but any time hes in town he stops by the shop to say hello and give me a tee shirt or something...a great guy too... I wear my SPI Tee shirt proudly I wish I had more so I could wear one every day.(hint,hint)
|05-07-2013 06:09 AM|
|fenderless 33||Amen to SPI. Deadbodyman said it all. Great product and company|
|05-07-2013 05:59 AM|
Spi Black is a very dark black SS urathane paint with a hellofa gloss.The SPI epoxy has a semi gloss sheen and theres also a hot rod black paint with a low sheen.If your thinking of using any of them just give SPI a call and they can tell you all about them and how they're used much better than I can...What I can tell you is SPI sells high quality materials at the best price and a 24 hr hotline if you have any problems...It wont matter if your a pro spending thousands a month or a first timer just buying a qt of primer they always answear the phone and will get you straightend out..
|05-06-2013 12:48 PM|
ok Ill use 1000 the op wasn't to bad some spots were perfect some just had that weird what the Hell frosty look.I'm still new to buffing so I go pretty slow..is there a chance that after I say in the clear down and shoot new clear if I don't get on orange peel I won't have to wet sand and buff or because of the dill clear underneath well I no matter what?Also is the medium cut glaze good enough?
Btw a bit off subject but with the black SPI black the epoxy primer what is the best size tip to use?I have a guy once this used on his motorcycle tank for a flat look.But with other primers after you sand well you know how it looks.Any tips for me?
|05-06-2013 07:13 AM|
If your going to reclear the whole truckyou want to ruff it all up so the clear sticks,when I do two coats ,sand and reclear I use 600but you can use anything from 600- 1000,,,,anything finer is wasting timeand taking a chance on the new clear not sticking as well....when it comes to cut and buff you wont find anyone that hates it as much as I doso was sanding with 1500 and buffing but the buffing takes too long so what I'm going to try and have high hopes for is wet sanding with 1200 then using that trizac dry paper and sanding the 1200 scratches with 1500 then 2000 then a final sand with 3000 , its important to use the soft interpad with your sander.
The job I'm doing now is SPI black with two coats of clear ,sanded and recleared then cut and buffed ... anyone thats cut and buffed black knows just how hard it is to get perfect ,it seems like theres always some scratches that got missed no matter how many times I go over it Thats why I'll be trying this sanding to 3000 method...
With white it might be overkill because you cant really see into white it when its outside,it just blinds you
|05-05-2013 11:20 PM|
Cut&buff help needed asap
Quick clear cut&buff question,I shot clear over the cab of this truck its artic white got peel in some places I'm still new to cut&buff I took a small area wet sanded with 1500 till dull&it cleaned up nice.I only had 2 coats I'm gonna shoot 2 more now the question is should I wet sand all of the existing op down before I do my cut&buff or should I Just go ahead &lay more clear&then cut&buff also.I've been using mcquires medium cut glaze is that fine or?Thanks guys. oh&is 1500 safe or should I do 15 than 2000 or just 2000
Please excuse any typos or terseness: this email was sent from my mobile and I have clumsy fingers.