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Topic Review (Newest First)
Yesterday 09:25 PM
MARTINSR x4, awesome stuff John!

Brian
Yesterday 08:31 PM
ttrotter
Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
X2..
X3
Yesterday 08:22 PM
Too Many Projects
Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Absolutely AWESOME!
X2..
Yesterday 07:22 PM
123pugsy Absolutely AWESOME!
Yesterday 06:00 PM
496CHEVY3100 Metal work at its Finest
Yesterday 05:54 PM
John long

10-23-2014 07:32 PM
carolinacustoms
Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
You could probably do that Kelly but it would not eliminate the need to hammer the piece. It has a compound curve that required working the profile of the bead into it with the mallot. The mallot was only used to form the profile of the bead and had nothing to do with the curves that follow the windshield and cow crease. They were formed with the Shrinker/Stretcher jaws as the piece curves down as well as back around the windshield.

I hope I am understanding your question and am giving you a good answer. If not, explain your question again so I can get it through my thick head better.

John

Yes sir you understand it clearly. I didn't realize you had used the shrinker/stretcher, and thought you had formed it entirely with the hammer. Thanks for the information.

Kelly
10-23-2014 07:14 PM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by carolinacustoms View Post
John it looks like you have it well under control

I am asking out of pure curiosity, but if you had taken the straight piece with the first brake that you made with the tipping wheel, then put a 90* bend on the top with a brake, could you have used a shrinker jaw on the top brake to create the curve, then cut off the extra brake line? Or was it just easier to hammer it? I know a hammer is sometimes therapy when working with metal and cars.......but I wanted to ask out of curiosity. I don't have a shrinker/stretcher so I have been watching closely trying to learn so when I am able to get one I will have a head start.

Kelly
You could probably do that Kelly but it would not eliminate the need to hammer the piece. It has a compound curve that required working the profile of the bead into it with the mallot. The mallot was only used to form the profile of the bead and had nothing to do with the curves that follow the windshield and cow crease. They were formed with the Shrinker/Stretcher jaws as the piece curves down as well as back around the windshield.

I hope I am understanding your question and am giving you a good answer. If not, explain your question again so I can get it through my thick head better.

John
10-23-2014 06:55 PM
123pugsy
Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
Finished the lower half of the cowl patch and fitted it.






Tacked it in place.






Test fit stainless trim. Well satisfied.





Trimmed out the upper half and have begun to fit it. More work to be done on it though.



Very nice John.

Thanks.
10-23-2014 06:51 PM
carolinacustoms John it looks like you have it well under control

I am asking out of pure curiosity, but if you had taken the straight piece with the first brake that you made with the tipping wheel, then put a 90* bend on the top with a brake, could you have used a shrinker jaw on the top brake to create the curve, then cut off the extra brake line? Or was it just easier to hammer it? I know a hammer is sometimes therapy when working with metal and cars.......but I wanted to ask out of curiosity. I don't have a shrinker/stretcher so I have been watching closely trying to learn so when I am able to get one I will have a head start.

Kelly
10-23-2014 06:25 PM
John long Finished the lower half of the cowl patch and fitted it.






Tacked it in place.






Test fit stainless trim. Well satisfied.





Trimmed out the upper half and have begun to fit it. More work to be done on it though.



10-23-2014 03:02 AM
Too Many Projects Great work and I see you had your lovely assistant taking the great pics...
10-22-2014 11:47 PM
496CHEVY3100 Great work John ,the smaller pieces sometimes take more time than some of the larger pieces,some people look at them with no idea how long it took or how complicated the compound curves and steps can be,
10-22-2014 09:04 PM
John long Today I played around with making a patch for the rusty places beneath the windshield. Without pulling the windshield from the parts car I could not tell whether it had good replacement pieces and just did not feel like climbing under the dash to do it.

First I made a template of the compound curve.



Next I broke the angle by running the pieces through the tipping die of my bead roller



Using the shrinker/stretcher jaws i formd the curve into the angled pieces.



I have an old piece of scrap iron that has a round end that is curved. Using that and a plastic mallot i formed the contour of the detail that is under the stainless trim.



These pieces will need quite a bit more tweaking and trimming but you can at least tell where I am going with it.



10-21-2014 09:31 PM
496CHEVY3100
Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
I thought you meant the drive-in THEATER, where the after dark action took place...


eDIT ,,EDIT ,,










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EDIT :: NOT WORKING
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