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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-16-2006 04:11 PM
krazz
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Highrise
Just step it up and run 3/4....that way if you ever upgrade to a larger compressor you will have the right size line.

Sounds good.....3/4 it is!!!!!!!

C.
11-16-2006 02:00 PM
Henry Highrise Just step it up and run 3/4....that way if you ever upgrade to a larger compressor you will have the right size line.
11-16-2006 01:48 PM
krazz I'll be piping my garage in the next month or so. I'm leaning towards 3/4" black pipe, but the outlet of my compressor is 1/2". Should I stick with 1/2" throughout, or should I step it up to 3/4" ?
11-11-2006 07:49 AM
genr8rs
Copper air lines

I researched this fairly extensively. Steel is ok but not very user freindly with threading and fittings and time to install. I visited several garages,a new wing in an engineering college as well as the Fleet garage at the utility I work at. All of them use copper. I used copper and found it to work very well. No matter what you use remember to use nothing smaller than 3/4" and run not smaller than 1" feeder trunk. You will get good pressure with smaller but you will loose volume (cfm).
11-02-2006 08:41 PM
Carpoor I am getting ready to put a new air line system in my garage and wanted to thank all for the great info in this discussion. Hope to eliminate the moisture problems I have in the present system. Thanks again.
11-02-2006 10:51 AM
BUICKMAN
Quote:
there would be some small cooling advantage but nothing worth the added cost of the larger pipe.
that's what I was looking for. I'll be running 3/4 for the full length... thanks oldred
11-02-2006 09:48 AM
oldred The volume increase would be too small to matter one way or the other and you will never need the additional flow capability that it would add so in effect you would gain nothing, there would be some small cooling advantage but nothing worth the added cost of the larger pipe.
11-02-2006 07:28 AM
BUICKMAN Kampr thanks for taking the time to do those calcs(and everybody else that's helping me out here).Since it is already an 80 gallon tank, I am more interested in knowing about the cost/benefit of the cooling/condensing/draining of the water in the larger lines than the smaller. In other words how much more condensate am I gonna get with 40 ft of 1'' + 40 ft of 3/4 in vs... 40 ft of 3/4 in + 40 ft of 1/2 in or what would be really simple is 80 ft total of 3/4 in.
11-02-2006 07:05 AM
Kampr
Quote:
Originally Posted by BUICKMAN
Well I have been advised by the warden that the room I intended to use as my blasting room is to remain as HER garden and potting room and that she doesn't see a need for air in there. SO, I will not be making that first left turn but rather t'ing into a vertical piece with a 2 ft riser and a drop with drain, then running it back toward the AC and into another vertical riser/drop-drain and making a right and going about 1ft into the same "prep-paint" room I would have previously ended in. The blaster will be located in the 12x40 lean to room about midway into that second run. I will ensure that I have positive drainage away from the AC at all times. My question is how much benefit would be had by increasing the size of black pipe from 3/4 and 1/2 to say 1 inch to the first about face (about 38 ft) then 3/4 inch back toward the AC (another 38 ft) and using 1/2 for my tool "outlets".
waddayathinks
If my ciphering is correct you won't gain that much in air line volume. It would be a little over a gallon more capacity with the increase of air line size. You would gain a lot of cooling capacity. The air travels much slower through the bigger line and has more area on the outside to cool it.

One US gal. has 231 cubic inches in it. 1" pipe has 9.42 cubic inches per running ft. 3/4" pipe has 5.298 cubic inches per running ft.

It takes a lot of air line to increase your air capacity very much. I think my calculations are correct but let me know if they aren't.

Kampr
11-02-2006 05:42 AM
BUICKMAN
Quote:
Originally Posted by BUICKMAN
OK, I think I got everything figured out and my parts list ready. Will be going to Loews tomorrow to bring the Kobalt monster home. I plan to install the compressor in the coolest part of the barn which is in a 12x40 ft lean-to type room in the shade of a big ol double pine, I will come off it with a flexible pipe then a a 3/4 inch black steel 5 foot riser, travel along a wall ,still in the cool, for about 30 feet, make another two foot rise with a drain drop at the bottom of it,(this is where I will add a hose later to furnish air to the pole barn I inquired about earlier) change to 1/2 inch here, turn left and go into the main garage. Run about 15 ft, add a 4 inch rise and a 5 foot drop to my beadblaster and sandblaster room, continue on about 10 more feet, turn left again, enter my prep and paint room, run about 20 feet, add a 4 inch rise and 6 ft drop for air tools, run about 5 more feet and end at a rise and drop for painting. Does this sound workable?
I have a couple of questions. What kind of flexible pipe and fittings do I use coming off the air compressor. Where do I need regulators and water filters and what kind. I hope to buy as much at Loews so I can get the 10% off new credit card deal but if there are better seperators i can get them later.
Well I have been advised by the warden that the room I intended to use as my blasting room is to remain as HER garden and potting room and that she doesn't see a need for air in there. SO, I will not be making that first left turn but rather t'ing into a vertical piece with a 2 ft riser and a drop with drain, then running it back toward the AC and into another vertical riser/drop-drain and making a right and going about 1ft into the same "prep-paint" room I would have previously ended in. The blaster will be located in the 12x40 lean to room about midway into that second run. I will ensure that I have positive drainage away from the AC at all times. My question is how much benefit would be had by increasing the size of black pipe from 3/4 and 1/2 to say 1 inch to the first about face (about 38 ft) then 3/4 inch back toward the AC (another 38 ft) and using 1/2 for my tool "outlets".
waddayathinks
10-26-2006 02:20 PM
SteveU I had a 8' piece of 1" rubber airline with the proper fittings for screwing into the compressor on one end & into the 1" metal pipe on the other end made up for $35.00 out the door at a local electrical motor place that also does hydraulic hoses.
10-26-2006 09:09 AM
oldred Buick, That not only sounds workable but it sounds like you have done a really good job at planing this. You may want to consider hydraulic hose for the flexible part, inexpensive and capable of a great deal more pressure than it will ever see in service here. Just ask for a 1/2" hose (or what ever size you plan to use) the length you will need with NPT ends in either male or female, which ever you need, and it will fit the pipe threads on the compressor, the female ends are even available as a swivel fitting to make it even easier to hook up. The filter/regulator should be mounted at the takeoff where the air hose will be attached and as far from the compressor as possible. If you do use hydraulic hose all you will need is the 1500-2000 psi rated hose (you don't need that much rating but that is the low end for hydraulic hose) and not the more expensive and much stiffer multi wire higher pressure hose.
10-26-2006 06:24 AM
Irelands child Anything that I've seen at Lowe's is way too small for what you need. My own is a dual setup that seems to work fairly well. It consists of a cheapy $20 Harbor Freight unit that I use as an initial knock-out unit. I then final filter with a Sharpe 707F. It's all at the outlet end of the 50+/- foot air line. In the picture you can also see a drip leg with a valve - needed. This will also collect water and need draining. The second picture has my hookup to my compressor. It's a 6 foot piece of 3/8" hose that plugs into my compressor - a 6.5 Hp, 30 gallon tank unit. I have to keep it portable so I can move it around. Note the drip leg and valve here for draining - it's needed as well.

http://www.sharpe1.com/filters.htm

I paid a lot less than list - shop the internet for the best price
10-25-2006 08:56 PM
BUICKMAN OK, I think I got everything figured out and my parts list ready. Will be going to Loews tomorrow to bring the Kobalt monster home. I plan to install the compressor in the coolest part of the barn which is in a 12x40 ft lean-to type room in the shade of a big ol double pine, I will come off it with a flexible pipe then a a 3/4 inch black steel 5 foot riser, travel along a wall ,still in the cool, for about 30 feet, make another two foot rise with a drain drop at the bottom of it,(this is where I will add a hose later to furnish air to the pole barn I inquired about earlier) change to 1/2 inch here, turn left and go into the main garage. Run about 15 ft, add a 4 inch rise and a 5 foot drop to my beadblaster and sandblaster room, continue on about 10 more feet, turn left again, enter my prep and paint room, run about 20 feet, add a 4 inch rise and 6 ft drop for air tools, run about 5 more feet and end at a rise and drop for painting. Does this sound workable?
I have a couple of questions. What kind of flexible pipe and fittings do I use coming off the air compressor. Where do I need regulators and water filters and what kind. I hope to buy as much at Loews so I can get the 10% off new credit card deal but if there are better seperators i can get them later.
10-06-2006 03:03 PM
pmeisel
Quote:
Originally Posted by BUICKMAN
OK, from the wisdom shared on this great forum I have decided upon an air compressor. A Kobalt 80 gal. 5 running HP from Loews for $799.00.
K7580V2
-7.5 HP Peak 5.0 HP Running
-208-230V/22A
-17.1 SCFM @90psi
-15.2SCFM @175psi
-Max Pressure 175psi
-80 gallon tank

I will be installing it in my current garage/barn. I have plans in the next 2-3 years for enclosing a larger pole type barn that is located about 75 feet from where the compressor will be installed. I will want air in both buildings once I do this so won't want to have to move this monster to the new building. Can I run air line underground to the new building. It is slightly down grade from the current. The reason I ask now rather than later is in case there is anything I should take into consideration in installing the new compressor. I will be running all new 3/4" blk iron pipe now.
You could, but I don't think it would work very well. The underground pipe would be the low point, and collect condensation, and you won't have a good way to drain it there.

If you use the air mostly in one building, and only occasionally in the other, I would go with a temporary line or hose that can be easily disconnected and drained. Of course you may have to move the compressor.

An acquaintance with a separate garage and workshop ran the black pipe overhead at truss level, but it was a relatively short distance.
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