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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-01-2004 06:52 PM
84_sportcoupe i think you should paint it yourself. prep is the most imortant thing. you want to make sure you filler is not bubled anywhere. if it is grind it out and sart over. once you got that right, block it out with some 600 and lay a coat of grey primer. wait 10 min and lay another coat of primer. let it dry and wet sand it. lightly spray some black on it. block sand the flat spots. any low spots will still have black paint.

the seccond most important thing is a good gun. see if you can rent one from a pawnshop. those guys ussually know what guns are good and witch ones are crap.

after that i cant help you much. the actual laying of the paint is a ***** so dont be suprized if your first attempt is horrible. i say start slow and paint a piece of plywood first so you can get the gun adjusted and figure out how to lay a flat coat. less is more here. you want your coats to be thin and even.

Dont skimp on paint. i dont know what kind of paint they have there but ask around to find out what kind is best.
02-01-2004 09:06 AM
302 Z28
Quote:
Originally posted by deuce_454
they all use accelerators and are 2 component but water based?????????????
Gm, and DuPont have been painting new cars with water baed paint for years. Some people may have some negatives to voice about GM's new car paint jobs.

Vince
01-31-2004 05:14 PM
deuce_454 I live in europe... and Spies and Hecker sales guy (i can get a discount through a friend of mine) and apparantly both the primer/sand and the base coat is waterbased, and only the clear is solvent based (any special considderations) they all use accelerators and are 2 component but water based?????????????
01-31-2004 01:16 PM
Dubz
Quote:
Originally posted by TurboS10
Enamel is not forgiving at all. If it is too dry it looks like crap, and too wet you will run it all over the place. It is also not possible to sand with good results using metallics. With BC/CC the base goes on dry like primer so you dont have to worry about runs. The clear goes on similiar to the enamel, but if you run it you can just sand it out and buff to a shine. For part time garage painters this is very important. If you dont do it every day, you dont have the "touch".
Chris
If you weren't doing a metallic, and were using a flat or semigloss paint (such as the blitz black) do you think they would be still difficult?
01-31-2004 12:52 PM
McDeuce Speaking of respirators, I started a thread asking about using a SCUBA respirator for painting. Any input would be appreciated.

http://www.hotrodders.com/t33243.html
01-29-2004 08:03 PM
kenseth17 I remember the first thing I painted when I was just a teenager s10 before going to techschool. It was my grandpa's fishing boat and he picked up the most neon green there was, I used Centari and had runs all over the place, and with the bright green you could swear you could see them from a mile away. Then I painted my Cutlass when deltron base/clear first was coming out. It looked pretty good, but I choose a spot panel clear and didn't realize that was what it was for so it had a hard time getting around the car. It looked decent after buffing though. After painting enough everything becomes a lot easier and you know how to deal with any little problems you run into.
01-29-2004 06:32 AM
TurboS10
Quote:
Originally posted by McDeuce
Lots of good info! Thanks Turbo.

I'm going to be painting my '32 roadster this summer and plan to make a paint booth much like the one in your gallery. However, I live in a neighborhood, and am concerned about blowing my leftover paint onto my neighbor's cars.

What about waiting a minute or two to let the wet stuff settle before turning on the fan?

Or, should I just offer to cover their cars with plastic temporarily?

Or, is it not a problem at all?
I would suggest building a box around you exhaust fan enclosed by air conditioner filters. This will pull all the solids out that are of any size. It can definately be a problem depending on how close they are. You will have to run the fan all the time, or you will not be able to see anything and the booth will fill with overspray. You want a large fan to keep this from happening. If it is too small, you will still have problems.

Quote:
Originally posted by Dubz
I'm also looking to paint my car in my garage and this info is great stuff.

I also did the custom cowl like you did s10, yours looks quite a peice better than mine at the moment though...

what was difficult about the Enamel?? as i was looking to do a single stage

what kind of fresh air system did you use for your lungs?

if you have an extraction fan you can always run some 12" or larger ducting type stuff to run the extracted air out of your neighbours way.

Also what did you use for a filter?

That damned hood is still not that great. I wish I had spent the money. Even though I braced it well to keep it from pulling in at the back, it still did about 1/4 inch which makes for an ugly gap. It will be replaced one day.

Enamel is not forgiving at all. If it is too dry it looks like crap, and too wet you will run it all over the place. It is also not possible to sand with good results using metallics. With BC/CC the base goes on dry like primer so you dont have to worry about runs. The clear goes on similiar to the enamel, but if you run it you can just sand it out and buff to a shine. For part time garage painters this is very important. If you dont do it every day, you dont have the "touch".

I used a charcoal activated filter mask which is supposed to be good for Urethanes. It is very important to replace the filters on the correct schedule. Isocynates in urethane can kill you. If you have access to fresh air hood, use it.

Chris
01-29-2004 12:15 AM
Dubz I'm also looking to paint my car in my garage and this info is great stuff.

I also did the custom cowl like you did s10, yours looks quite a peice better than mine at the moment though...

what was difficult about the Enamel?? as i was looking to do a single stage

what kind of fresh air system did you use for your lungs?

if you have an extraction fan you can always run some 12" or larger ducting type stuff to run the extracted air out of your neighbours way.

Also what did you use for a filter?
01-28-2004 10:56 PM
McDeuce Lots of good info! Thanks Turbo.

I'm going to be painting my '32 roadster this summer and plan to make a paint booth much like the one in your gallery. However, I live in a neighborhood, and am concerned about blowing my leftover paint onto my neighbor's cars.

What about waiting a minute or two to let the wet stuff settle before turning on the fan?

Or, should I just offer to cover their cars with plastic temporarily?

Or, is it not a problem at all?
01-26-2004 02:48 PM
TurboS10 Well, you are going to make my head grow with those compliments. Actually, I had done one complete job which was a HUGE mess when my wife traded it off. She let me practice on an old car she had when we got married and it taught me the Acrylic Enamel SUCKS. It was an embarrassment to say the least. After that, I did three partial recoates for family and friend with BC/CC and fell in love. It was so easy. I can not tell you how much easier it is. I also did alot of reading after my first failed attempt to figure out what went wrong. That is why I suggested you do a complete recoat before tackling your pride and joy so you understand the pit falls. Untill you have done it, you dont understand how easy it is to screw up.

I had never done any graphics at all before so it was a shot in the dark. I did practice on an old panel and asked alot of questions on here. I will also add I have a little bit of artistic ability which makes laying out the flames a little easier. I also used a digital picture of the truck and a drawing program on the 'puter to figure out what design I liked. I printed it out and did a mirror for the other side. Then just looked at the picture and layed the flames out free hand. Not hard, but time consuming.

The forced air should work fine, but make sure to filter it. I should have made it clearer on the attic fan. I went and got a $40 2500 cfm fan and mounted it in a piece of ply wood that I set under the large door. The plywood sealed everything off nicely and the fan pulled fumes to the floor and out similiar to a downdraft the nice shops use.
01-26-2004 06:28 AM
deuce_454 i have an oil furnace that blows hot air through 6 inch ducts(approx 100 deg F) for heating the shop. would blowing through a filter into the booth and having "pressure" blow fumes out the other end be better?? I ask because the blower is there and i do not have an attic fan..

BTW, i love the paint on your S10. how many cars have you painted before tackling your trucks awesome paint job?
01-26-2004 05:54 AM
TurboS10 I anchored the plastic to the floor with some scrap steel I had laying around. The fan pulls air in the filter at the top front and out the bottom of the big door. It does pull the walls of the plastic in just a little, but worked very well. I had no trash to speak of in the paint, and the booth would clear completely of spray in under a minute.

Chris
01-26-2004 03:46 AM
deuce_454 thanks for the replys, ill try and paint some of the left over bodypanels from my mustang, (paddock sent me two left rear quarterpanels, so i have one left to play with) but since my pickup will rust again if i dont paint the primered areas ill have to take the plunge and paint it.

thanx turboS10 ill copy your paintbooth, btw, if the fan sucks air out of the "booth" wont the plastic eventually stick to the freshly painted truck??
01-25-2004 06:34 PM
TurboS10 Deuce,

I would suggest you start off with a good book on painting. I got started that way. There is alot of info in the knowledge base as well on different phases.

Put short, you can and should practice on something first. As long as the paint on the truck is original, you should be able to recoat it. I would suggest using a sealer after you finish with the body work. The sealer will isolate the old paint and body work from the new paint. It will give you a good foundation to lay down the top coat on.

I would suggest using Base Coat/Clear Coat. It is much easier and much more forgiving. The dry times and coat recommendations are on the product data sheets.

Just post on here with all your questions as you work through it and I am sure you will be lead down the straight and narrow.

I have a pic in my album of the make shift booth I used for painting the S-10. It worked very well and cost less than $100usd for the attic fan, plastic, clamps and filter material.

Later,

Chris
01-25-2004 03:26 PM
shavedaccord hey deuce, email me at montecar32@hotmail.com, ill give yo some advice trial and error, and tell you what u need to do.
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