Okay, I bought an 85 Ford Ranger off of a buddy at work for a few $$$$.
It is a 2wd 4cyl 5spd truck 2bbl carb.
To get the truck started I have to pour a little gasoline down the throat of the carb, it will ran like it is cold then after a few minutes it will sit and idle perfectly fine. I can drive it all day with no problems, shut it off and start it back up ok. But if it sits for a couple of hours then I have to start the process all over again.
Like I said...once it is started, then truck runs great.
I am needing to get this fixed because I would like to start driving it back/forth to work and it is kind of a pain in the ars to do this before/after work everyday.
Any thoughts of what it maybe that is causing this? Accel Pump? Choke? Out of adjustment?
It used to have the TBI on it, but the prev owner had a different head with the carb installed(from an 83 Ranger)....I don't know the whole story as to why....but it IS carbed and not injected.
Later,
WEIMER
It is a factory Ford carb....
It had fuel injection....The head has been swapped with a different head, It now has Factory Ranger Carburated Top end on the Factory Ranger Fuel Injected Bottom end.
Later,
WEIMER
I had a 83 Ranger which had the ECC IV system in it. The carb had numerous electronic feedback instruments on it (throttle position, Idle sensor etc) and a whole bank of electronics on the inner fender that the stuff in the carb interfaced with. It was a total pain in the butt to keep that stuff working correctly. In fact the ford garage in Gig Harbor Washington told me to sell the truck because they could not figure out how to get it right. I took it to them after weeks of trying to get it fixed on my own. Needless to say I no longer own that piece of crap.
Could it be the Carb not keeping its fuel in the fuel bowl. I'd take a look at everything close to the fuel bowl where things might leak or evaporate while sitting for a few hours. Sometimes there is a plug at the top of the fuel bowl for adjusting inside, if you're lacking that plug, it might be evaporating. Also could be metering block as specified by grandprix76.
Just throwing things here. Hope it helps.
Are you still running high pressure lines for the carb? Not related but just curious if the previous owner kept those for the current carb instead of changing the tank and lines with a Carb pump etc...
Well, you said you can drive it all day fine after it warms up. I would think the accelerator pump would make it bog if it wasn't working. I was thinking maybe the fuel pump has a problem. If it's a mechanical type maybe the extra revs allows the pump to keep fuel in the bowl. But after it sits a while the fuel drains away from the carb and looses prime.
Choke
Even when it sits for a couple of hours it will cool done enough to a level where it may need to have the choke on especially if its running a little lean. Check the choke plate with the engine cold. Remove the air cleaner and open the throttle at the carb and watch the choke plate to see it it snaps shut. The "seat of the pants" adjustment should be to where the plate spring has just enough pressure to close the choke and hold it closed. Loosen the choke cover and adjust it till it just closes while holding the throttle slightly open.
My rambler when it had the stock single barrel carb on it would do the same. Watch it as you have someone try to start it with the air cleaner off and make sure the choke is closing.
I"D GO WITH JAG-DADDY,CHANGE YOUR FUEL PUMP,DEFO SOUNDS LIKE THE FUELS DRAINING BACK DOWN WHEN YOU ARRIVE AT YOUR DESTINATION(home +WORK) THEN IT"S GOT TO FORCE THE AIR OUT THE PIPE TO REPLACE WITH GAS. JUST ME TUPPENCE WORTH.......GOOD LUCK..........PHIL
I went out and looked at it today....The choke is an electric choke and isn't hooked up(it is kinda wired open???)
But with the choke butterflies wide open and moving the carb linkage there is no gas shooting into the throat at all.
2 questions.....
A) How hard is it to change the accel pump on this 2bbl?
B)Can I hook up a manual choke to this carb and eliminate the electric choke?
Thanks for everyones help, I do appreciate it:thumbup:
Later,
WEIMER
Good answer jmark. Rebuilts (most after-market) are assembled in bulk and can have any of the internal parts such as springs and metering components all the same. Factory rebuilts are more application specific. I recommend using the electric choke. Hook up the hot lead to the choke from the field lead of the alternator so the choke is only powered when the engine is running. BTW fuel cant run out of the fuel bowl back into the fuel line so it cant be a bad pump. A bad pump will not deliver enough fuel at high speeds, or will leak internally into the crankcase and dilute the oil, or leak externally thru the weep hole and onto the ground.
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