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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-04-2004 06:48 PM
30desoto I know how he feels, kinda, my garage is 35x30 with 10 foot ceilings, 2 9x10 overhead doors, I have half the garage sheeted off with blue tarps and use my side for the desoto, do all the welding sanding on my side just pull out the ol honda and keep the wife's side cleaned when i'm done, and my shop is right next to it and it's 15x25 with alot of room for all my parts and projects, glad you got a good shop I have been thinking of adding on for one myself but it suffur alittle with what I have or put the 30dee on hold to pay for it. Think I'll wait for awhile and use the garage.
30dee
06-04-2004 09:41 AM
5window My buddy's wife just spent a ton on a new garage. He can park his old Packard in there, as long as it doesn't get mud on the floor. His '51 Chevy Truck project is out in a walled off corner of his machine shed.
06-03-2004 08:20 PM
30desoto Cliff
Alright ya got me, now I wish I had a shop to work in instead of the wifes garage
Some people are just lucky
30dee
06-02-2004 10:36 AM
Cliff Elikofer
Quote:
Originally posted by 5window
Cliff, They put on-off switches on stuff for a good reason.
The sub panel reminded me of that when it threw me on the floor. Plus I don't think, well I know I will never need a reminder. Cause if I forget, I will be reminded again and thats not going to happen. Once is enough for me.

Quote:
Originally posted by 30desoto
Cliff
By the way that hoist would look and work better in my garage. Your doing a great job, keep up the good work

30dee
Lifts don't work or mount very well in a garage. They work better in shops...lol. By the way, wifes parks there car in the garage and men work out of shops.

Cliff

*[color=red]NOTE[/color]*
Just messing with you.
06-01-2004 10:10 PM
30desoto Cliff
Glad your alright, be sure to watch yourself sometimes you can get an aftershock to your body after being hit with that much voltage/amperage. You can hurt your body on the interior and not know it for a week or later might be a thought to call your doctor and tell him what happened and see if he should check you out or not, wouldn't hurt to call and check. By the way that hoist would look and work better in my garage. Your doing a great job, keep up the good work

30dee
06-01-2004 06:06 PM
5window Cliff, that is a really nice job you did on your project. I hope you get a lot of enjoyment out of it. But my, oh my, we are fortunate to have you with us! That was sound advice you gave. They put on-off switches on stuff for a good reason.
06-01-2004 04:36 AM
Cliff Elikofer *Update*

Just got done working on the truss in my shop that needed to be raised higher (the other truss didn't have to be modified after all, it cleared the vehicle fine). I can tell you one thing, now I know why contractors charge so much to built what ever you need done or built. I still have a little to do. But all in all, I'm done. The only other thing that I "HAVE" to do is, I have to re-wire the whole side where the lift is. The wiring (for the lights and what not) was every where and I'm going to change that real soon.

FYI....A few of the reasons it took me so long was cause I kept changing the location of the lift (it wasn't bolted down yet is why I was able to keep moving it around). And I could not make up my mind about how I was going to build the support around the lift. I did have a support built around the lift that was made out of treated 4x4 lumber. But I wasn't happy with it, so I took it down and started over. I ended up using steel square tubing post (1.5 by 1.5) and for the top, I stuck with 4x4 lumber. You can see some of the support in one of the pictures (P5310003). Plus, I had trouble finding paint for the steel (paint that matched the lift). After I found the paint, I had to wait on the paint company cause they didn't have all the different paint codes to mix the paint.

So, this is where I'm at as of right know. Pictures can be found at the link below.

Ooo yes, "NEVER EVER", let me say that again, "NEVER EVER" try to wire up a 220v breaker without killing main power to the sub panel. My shop sub panel has 150 amp service going to it. It has three main wires that come into it from the house. Well, I decided to wire the lift motor without killing the power. I took the breaker switch and put it on the off position and popped it into it place in the panel. I striped the outer plastic off the wires and feed the three wires into the panel with no problems. First thing, I wired the ground in and then wired the black wire into the breaker with no trouble. All was left was the neutral wire to be wired in the breaker as well (220 breaker, both black and white wires are HOT). I took my screw driver and was loosing the screw (all I had to do was slip the wire under it and tighten it back down) and my screw driver slipped off the screw and I hit one of the main lines which I think is 50 amps. I had my left hand on the sub panel (which helped in grounding me out) and I was leaning forward to help loosen the screw. The screw driver slip and bammmmm. All I can remember was my feet getting blown out from underneith me. I've served in the Marine Corps and have [color=red]never[/color] felt pain like that before. The next time I need to wire something up in the sub panel. I'm making sure the sub panel has zero volts and amps going to it. And if it means blowing up the closest transformer, so be it. I WILL NEVER BE SHOCKED AGAIN.

Anyways, take a look at the pictures and let me know what you all think.

http://community.webshots.com/album/148274990LkEgHn

Thanks for your all's help.

Cliff
05-02-2004 04:21 PM
Cliff Elikofer Support that is built around the lift.
05-02-2004 04:16 PM
Cliff Elikofer Thanks Bill

I went to the company that built my shop and I talked to the engineer that works for them. He said the blue print that I have now will work fine. I told him I was going to build a support around the lift to support the trusses bottom cord. The blue print in the above post is what I was going by from memory and is wrong. I went out and did some measuring before I went and talked to the engineer about my new blue print (the company calls that 10' and I have no clue why they do that, it's 9'6'...not 10'). The bottom cord is actually 9' 6'' from the concrete to the bottom cord. As of right now, I have the support up and the lift up as well. I don't have the lift totally installed and the bottom cord has not been cut yet. I just have the side post put up and the top bolted on the lift. The support that is built around the lift is treated 4x4 lumber and is nailed together with 2x4 purlin hangers. The bottom and top cords that are in my shop are 2x6's and the purlins are 2x4's. My trusses are 4' off center. I have two trusses that will be modified. Before I cut the purlins out and cut out the bottom cord. I will nail some 2x4 together and put them up to support the top cord. Then the middle cord will be cut to length and them put up using truss hangers. I will then cut the purlins angles just like the factory did and nail them up as well with the hangers. After that is done, I will cut the bottom cord out. Now the middle cord will be the bottom cord, which will set right on top of the support that is built around the lift. The only problem I might have is the pull up door can not be opened all the way while a long bed vehicle is on the lift like a long bed truck or extended cab truck. I have a heater that is in front of the lift that I will have to relocate cause I don't wont the heat from the heater blistering the paint or getting the grill hot to the point it starts to melt. Once I relocate the heater, I can move the lift forward and that will clear a long bed truck and the pull up door can be opened all the way. That takes care of one problem but it will generate another problem. My heater has a 20' long tube that comes from the heater. The heater is bolted to the trusses and when its on, the heat is shot straight down and a vehicle can not be to close to the heater or the paint will blister. I will probably leave the heater where's it at. But I will not be able to open the pull up door all the way. I can open it about 3/4 of the way. To me, that is not a problem. But its the other person that I'm worried about. If a friend comes over and were working on something and I forget to tell them about how high the door can be raised when a long vehicle is on the lift (that is what I'm worried about). What I could do is, put some kind of stop in the rails so that the door will only raise so high. That way, I don't have to worry about it. But I will have to get used to the door being only raised only 3/4 of the way up even thou a vehicle is not on the lift(Ooo...the decisions I have to make...I know I created them...lol).
05-02-2004 01:13 PM
daimon1054 I would at least run the new rafter all the way to the ends of the roof. Look at how a try ceiling is done that is what I would do.

http://playfair.homestead.com/files/house/tray.html
05-02-2004 11:21 AM
'35 Sedan Delivery Instead of modifying the trusses, I'd open up the whole space. Trusses don't take well to "field" modification, and I doubt that the mfgr. would give you any advice on how to do this, informal or not. Besides, opening up the whole space would give you a lot more flexibility.

Here's how to do it.

Assuming the trusses are on two-foot centers and are centered over the bay where the lift is going, remove the metal roofing 4 feet to either side of the center truss. Remove the center truss and the ones on either side of it (three total). Take two of these trusses and "sister" them to the remaining adjacent trusses (screw them together every foot along their entire surface, using #8x3" galvanized deck screws).

If the plate on the top of each side wall where the rafters have been removed isn't at least a 2x8, replace it with a 2x8 and bolt it into each concrete block cell that is filled. This may be overkill, but it is intended to prevent the wall from bowing out where the rafters have been removed, hence the walls are no longer "tied" front to back.

To fill in the space, use 2x6 "purlins" (beams going lengthwise between the rafters). Place them at the ridge (peak), above the side walls, and where the short truss elements join the long elements along the roof. They should be angled so that they are perpendicular to the roof line. Fasten the purlins to the trusses with joist hangers.

Then nail a 2x4 diagonally to the underside of the purlins on one side from where the top purlin joins one truss at the ridge to where the bottom one joins the other truss at the side wall. Do the same on the other side but in the opposite direction. Again, this may be overkill, but it is intended to prevent the roof from "racking" due to the 8' gap between the rafters.

Finally. replace the metal roofing.

Now you have an 8' wide "cathedral" ceiling over your lift, along with a roof system that will take the snow and wind loads the original structure was designed to handle.

Good luck.

Bill
04-21-2004 10:25 AM
Beenaway2long Since its a relatively new building, ask the manufacturer of the trusses what you would have to do to accomodate your request. I would think that they could give you some "off the record" suggestions. Or ask them how the truss would be designed,if they were building it. Ask them for a price and the sketch, so the codes person can inspect it.
Either way, I would sandwich the existing truss w/ 1/2" plywood. Glued and screwed on all chord members.
04-20-2004 09:00 PM
5window Your rafter plan should be okay as drawn, as long as you use a board of adequate depth for the lower chord in your drawing. This would depend on the types of wood available and the expected snow loads in your area. You might ask a local builder or rafter company for their advice. You could use a board the same size as your rexisting rafter, but this might really be undersized and you wouldn't know it without checking

With all due respect, I wouldn't
use OSB for anything in structural construction. It has absolutely no strength-you can break it barehanded. If you aren't going to use structural connectors manufactured for the purpose, at least use 1/2" exterior grade plywood and galvanized construction screws. But Kevin45 is right, you want to brace both sides.

As for needing foot plates to distribute the load, you can figure the load by adding the weight of your lift and the weight of your vehicle and dividing that by the cross sectional area of your lift posts to get a pounds per square foot calculation. The are lots of tables for calculating the supporting strength of concrete. A call to your local concrete supplier could probably tell you if you need a wider support or not. Good luck.
04-20-2004 08:20 PM
olsixrod
professional help

Hi Cliff, try a short walk in the yellow pages,find the closest truss manufacturer in your area, a half dozen dough nut's will buy you a conversion with the resident planner/ engineer, show him/her a sketch, with dimentions, of what you have, two min. or less in a design "cook book" style program, ( read that SALES TOOL ) will get you an engineered print to follow. this ensures that you will do no harm, and might even gain more vertical height than you need. You live in snow country, so minimize the risk,this is a lot more complicated than it looks from the floor, ask a pro.C-YA Paul
04-20-2004 08:02 PM
30desoto Cliff
I really can spell better than the last post.
You should be fine with what you have just make sure you have the room in the rafter space, with good support. Your design looks like it will work great
30 dee
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