|08-16-2004 11:17 PM|
|julmer||I've come across a relatively new product from 3M. It is a 36 grit surface conditioning pad. It looks like a purple Scrubbie on steroids and fits a 4" grinder. Cuts paint like mad and, because of its open construction, does not load up like sandpaper.|
|07-29-2004 11:29 PM|
|80MalibuBC||whats the best chemical stripper?|
|07-26-2004 09:31 AM|
|onebadmerc||I usually strip paint panel by panel with a chemical stripper. If the panel is removable I take it off and set it on a stand, this way I dont get the stipper on other panels, especially ones I just primered. If there is any paint left that the remover didn't take off, I take a DA with 180 grit and sand off whatever is left.|
|07-21-2004 05:37 PM|
|mean_1||if u have a previous paint job on a car and the body lines are good and its straight as an arrow u can take a DA(dual action) with a 320 and go at it then a 400 scotch brite pad, degrease then paint...if ur just trying to work rust out try a nuematic filer...just watch ur plane surface so u dont cut at any radical angles...chemical stripper would get u down to BARE metal and there's no reason why u couldnt paint over an old paint job as long as u seal it...got any more questions e-mail me at firstname.lastname@example.org or icq 23175985|
|07-11-2004 02:31 AM|
to me sandblasting is a big nono.
don't let annyone say it won't warp your panels because it will!
and to those who say it won't have you ever blasted in total darkness? its fun you will see sparks flyin' now I may be a fool but I never knew sparks are cold.
second reason is: that sand will get everywhere!
it accumulates in places you cant get it out again, gets wett and guess what happens next, yep rust.
the second thing I observed is what is it with that "get all the paint off" thing?
if the original paint is still good leave it be!
sand it and paint it, nobody will notice the original paint is still under there if you did a good job.
taking all the paint off is taking a risk. here you have a sound panel whithout any rust on it and what do you do? you get all that protection off so it gets the chance to rust.
and trust me, surface rust, it don't take days to build, it takes minutes! yep you cant see it after an hour but take a rag with some thinner and wipe that panel, then take a look at your rag what do you think that fuilt is on the rag? I'll tell ya its rust.
but all this is my idea. its your car, do what you want with it.
|07-11-2004 01:07 AM|
Sandblasting is by far the best way to go. Sure you can paint over the paint you have but most of the time your results wont be as nice or last as long.
And YES sandblasting CAN warp the metal. I occasionally sandblast and have done car bodies. Thing metal will warp. Get someone who knows what they are doing and has done car bodies before. Sand it, blow it off with compressed air, clean the metal with some sort of mineral spirit, and prime it and paint it. Preferably indoors.
|07-10-2004 11:14 AM|
The main reason sand blasting distorts sheetmetal is because each grain of sand acts like a tiny hammer. Each time it hits the metal it stretches it. Don't hold the blasting nozzle at right angles to the work, use it like you were hosing down the yard with a hose pipe. I only have a small blaster but I haven't had any problems using it this way.
SDS Jap, Do you really need to take all the paint off?
Post the question on the Exterior Forum and ask the guys.
|07-10-2004 07:30 AM|
[QUOTE]Originally posted by adtkart
[B]I always recommend that the work be done panel by panel. As you strip each pane, complete the work on that panel and prime before going to the next. That way you will have a bunch of small projects instead of one monster. It will also prevent the rust from taking over the panels that you have already stripped.
This is the way you should do it. adtkart is posting from experience. not i've been told or i heard or i read etc. etc..
If you don't make mistakes. your not doing anything.
69 ss rs full custom camaro 98 ISCA grandchampion
69 ss rs bb camaro wifes driver
66 Elcamino 350/all dz parts,ac,windows,loaded,my driver
69 ss chevelle bb conv.fresh frame off
26 T sedan street rod
|07-09-2004 11:27 PM|
|dharroald||i stripped off all of the crap on my intake from my 472 with dollar general oven cleaner. it went through grease, rust, and paint. make sure you wash it all off before painting, and wear a mask, i didn't and i wish i did, it's some strong stuff. i also used it my oil pan, its works pretty well. David Harroald|
|07-07-2004 01:56 PM|
I agree with adtkart. I've probably got the same Sears sandblast kit.
I use "blackblast" for the medium which is a product packaged in Minnesota and sold here in Wisconsin by Menards (a store just like Home Depot). I've done my entire car, frame, fenders, hood, trunk, entire body, etc and never had warpage. Right now I'm blasting the Ford rear end.
I bought a cheap hood to wear which keeps the sand off my head and protects my eyes (although I also wear glasses under neat) and I also wear a breathing mask so I don't breath any dust.
Have fun with whatever you do because it's all part of the buidling process.
|06-16-2004 01:06 PM|
eh. it builds character, i dont see how you woudl get it on youre arms though. use gloves. like the rubber ones for electric work, there pretty thin and still go up to your elbow.
um for the sandpaper i've used sandpaper to take chrome off of my hood ornament and it did a pretty good job. but i had a soft metal
|06-15-2004 09:20 PM|
|SDSJap||checmical stripping is really dangerous though isnt it? like if you gett eh stuff on yoru skin you can get like a serious chemical burn?|
|06-15-2004 07:44 PM|
|mitmaks||id use stripper, least expensive, fast, less work. wont damage sheetmetal like sandblasting will|
|06-14-2004 06:41 PM|
I always recommend that the work be done panel by panel. As you strip each pane, complete the work on that panel and prime before going to the next. That way you will have a bunch of small projects instead of one monster. It will also prevent the rust from taking over the panels that you have already stripped.
I regularly read posts warning not to sand blast panels due to warpage. This past weekend I sand blasted the hood for my 67 Mustang. There is no warpage what so ever in that panel. I believe that the problem with warpage is due to excessive pressure and holding the blaster in one place too long. I use a small blaster sold by Sears. I have a 5 HP compressor that puts out 125 PSI. I keep the gun moving like I'm painting, and don't want runs. If you do it with a large tarp down on the ground, you can reuse the sand several times. The outside of that hood was down to the bare metal(had been repainted once) in about 1 hour.
|06-14-2004 06:39 PM|
|dragman||sand blasting doesnot warp the metal but to make the car not rust just spray a primer over the rust and if you dont want to use chemical stripers your only other option is to take a hog and sand the car|
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