I'm building a new motor using a one piece rear main seal block and crank...I've been told that the stock crank and rods will be fine, don't worry about it...and I've been told the opposite...I will be using main studs (2 bolt) and ARP rod bolts, and it will be balanced....11.5-12 to one compression ratio...will it work or grenade on me????
depends what your setup is, and how fast you plan on spinning it... i seem to remember stock is fine up to 500 hp or a little over, and maybe 7+grand if balanced. on the other hand, take a survey here 'cause for every person here you've got 2 or 3 opinions.
my $.02
-z-
you could get a rough idea from a desk top dyno. He is right on the rods and crank holding around 500hp and taking 7grand. but it's risky. you can get a set of good rods from naparts.com for $220 it's worth the peace of mind.
Originally posted by nastynova:
<strong>stock crank???
do you know where i can find out a rough idea of what this motor will put out?</strong><hr></blockquote>
502 Gev IV Good stuff.
I mentioned that because it is 1 piece rear main.
The small block stuff is good for about 500 HP and we run limited class sprint car stuff to high 7K RPM's every weekend. 13:1 compression alcohol 2bbl classes. Stock crank and block
[ December 29, 2002: Message edited by: Infomaniac ]</p>
def. have the crank and rods magnafluxed, if you decide to stick with them... and post the details of your setup on here, someone can definitely give you a hp figure with more info on heads, intake, cam, and carb
happy rodding!
-z-
[ January 02, 2003: Message edited by: steppenwolf ]</p>
Thanks guys...
what I plan to run....
350 30 over
holley 650 DP w/proform body
victor vortec intake
vortec ported and polished heads (cast) w/manley race flow valves
keith black KB-180 pistons (11.5 to 12.0 compression) race gas
edelbrock torker cam (for now)
electric fuel and water pumps
windage tray
[ December 30, 2002: Message edited by: nastynova ]
[ December 30, 2002: Message edited by: nastynova ]</p>
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