|10-18-2005 07:23 PM|
|Cebby||wp442 - great writeup on the compressor and piping info. Chock full of goodies!!!|
|08-13-2004 04:43 PM|
Agreed...I never accused you of trying to take credit for it, I was simply asking for an acknowledgement of it's origin. You've done so, so I'll consider the matter closed.
However, just for future reference: I also save tidbits of info from various websites to my computer, usually in the form of text files. Just so I'll remember where I got the info, though, I also always copy and paste the URL where the info was obtained. That way, should I ever have a need to use it for anything other than my own use, I can either contact the author for permission or at least post a link to the original webpage from which it was obtained. Just a helpful suggestion...take it FWIW.
|08-13-2004 03:32 PM|
|08-13-2004 03:27 PM|
|Kevin45||WP...I saved it from your webpage into my computer. I then copied it from my computer into my Gallery. By default it puts Hotrodders watermark onto any pic. I cannot control that. I went back and edited my remark to show that it came from your website. If that is not good enough I will go back and retract anything that I stated in this thread and delete the photos from my gallery. When I originally save it I was surfing your site. After so many months one tends to forget where it came from. I NEVER took credit that it was my design or whatever. It's your call. Tell me what you want me to do and it is done. But I am not going to get into a pissing contest over a thread that talks about airline piping that I never even took credit for.|
|08-13-2004 08:36 AM|
I have no problem with people saving the info and graphics I post on my site...heck, that's why I created them in the first place, to share. But I DO believe that at the very least credit should be given wherever it's due.
If you re-edit the layout graphic it's just going to get very distorted and pixelated. Why don't you just delete your version and resave it from my webpage. You're more than welcome to display a copy in your Gallery, as long as it's original and unedited.
|08-13-2004 02:51 AM|
wp442...I apologize for it being covered up with HotRodders watermark. And yes it did come from your site. I saved it for future reference for myself and when this topic first started I thought I'd share for others. The reason I shared this one is because of the detail and it looked like the best layout. If you would like I will go back and edit the pic and remove it. My intentions were not to take credit and as you can see I did not take credit for it. Again my apologies.
|08-12-2004 11:31 PM|
|wp442||Kevin45: The graphic you posted above and all the info you posted about piping was taken from my webpage at http://www.oldsmobility.com/air-compressor-piping.htm . I spent a great deal of time researching the contents of that page and especially creating that layout graphic, which I notice has been watermarked with a Hotrodders watermark, covering up my own 'OLDSmobility.com' watermark. Not cool.|
|08-12-2004 09:28 PM|
Personally I would go with the type 'L' 1" copper, run at least 25' diagonally or vertical before putting any fitting in except for a copper connector of the two lengths of pipe. At the bottom of this install a water drain. If you can't do this because of space restrictions then you can use a roll of soft copper (1 or 1 1/2" ) of approximately 40 ' in length. You can put a small fan on the end to cool the inside of the coil but allow room for air circulation, this will act as a mini dryer. The first 25 feet of the piping is the most critical, as warmth holds the most moisture, and this part of your system obtains its heat from the compressing of the air. The cooling air will lose its moisture as it travels up the pipe and will condense on the inside of the copper and run down the walls to the water trap below. Keep the regulators, oilers, etc to the ends of the branch lines as suggested by others. Your large supply lines will act as storage for extra air, cooled dried air, that is. If you can find an old central air conditioner coil this is perfect for use as a dryer and it has a good size fan already.
Good luck on your endeavors. AL
|08-12-2004 12:40 PM|
For those who might still have the little pet**** drain (like the drain on most radiators) on the bottom of your tank (the way it came when you bought it) and probably hard to get to... You may want to think about buying the fittings and extending it out to where you can easily get to it and put a small ball-valve-type of drain there. The parts are relatively inexpensive and are available at most hardware stores.
I have found that I now drain my compressor much more often than I did when I had to get under the there with pliers, find something for it to drain into, and get the rusty water all over my arm. Now, I just go to the valve, make a quarter turn, and it drains in seconds.
It works great for me. I hope it may for some others, as well.
Here's a Question relating to using PVC pipe...
I saw in a post above where PVC will explode and create projectiles...
In the case of using PVC with a 600 PSI rating and the compressor having a pressure relief valve rated at 180PSI (or close), should the PVC still not be used? How about if it is inside the wall between studs and behind sheetrock and other wall boarding materials?
Thanks in advance for any help!
|08-12-2004 05:48 AM|
Kevin45- Actually I have saved and printed all of your info and diagrams from previous posts that i found in a search of this board! Consider it heeded and appreciated!
As to Hurstw25's info on copper lines- do you know if you used K, L, or M type copper? Certainly the price is friendly-er than galvi right now.........
I do believe I am closing in on this......wirings almost completed so this will be up next.
|08-12-2004 03:18 AM|
|08-11-2004 07:19 PM|
|HURSTW25||I have used hard copper lines in my garage years. It is a little more costly but easier to run and more maintenance free that iron pipe. Many people think I am nuts. A former supervisor for one, but when he helped build a new facility he used copper.|
|08-10-2004 08:07 AM|
|Beenaway2long||A pictures worth a thousand words, but dimensioned skematics are worth a "bazillion"....|
|08-10-2004 02:47 AM|
Cindy...Look at page three in my Gallery and I have about 4 pics of air line schematics. Although none for two story. Also notice on the following that the oiler is used for the air tools on outlet #2 and not for painting. You DO NOT want an oiler in the line for any paint equipment or you will be asking for trouble. Here is a pic that came from this site http://www.oldsmobility.com/air-compressor-piping.htm You may want to check it out for the complete artice that was written up about piping layout.
|08-09-2004 04:35 PM|
I would not use an oiler anywhere in the line. They are typically used for stationary machinery, oil in the line will drive you nuts if try to use that air to paint with, oil the individual tools by themselves not the line.
I would run unregulated air in the line, this will allow full compressor output at any point in the shop, important when using a heavy impact or other air eating tool. I use plug in regulators and use them when I need them, about the only place I do use them is in front of a paint gun or something like a die grinder where I want to control the speed. The thing to remember about regulators is that they will give you some cfm loss even running wide open so it's usually better to use them only where/when you need them.
I would make the first run of pipe from the compressor run up hill away from the compressor, a lot of the moisture will condense in this first section and slowly run back into the compressor, in which hopefully you are installing an automatic tank drain. Then further down the line add a moisture filter, one large enough to handle the CFM of the compressor, check some place like mcmaster.com or granger for an industrial model.
Otherwise with your plan and the advice you got above sounds like you are good to go!
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