|08-24-2004 01:05 AM|
|julmer||PVC is fine as far as its pressure rating. The part that can cause serious injury is that it is fairly brittle. If something falls on it and breaks it, you can have lots of pieces of sharp plastic flying all over your garage. Not a real good idea. There are some systems out now that use polyethelene piping that remains flexible and won't shatter. The one I saw used push together fittings so you could rearrange the system or take it with you if you moved.|
|08-09-2004 03:10 PM|
I've just installed a compressor in my garage. I'm new to all of this so before starting I talked to anyone around here that would offer their input. The local compressor supply company told me they have been using PVC on their installations for over 20 years and haven't had any problems with it, so I opted for PVC on my small installation.
On the subject of moisture in the lines: One of the more interesting ideas I heard was from a distant relative that owns a machine shop in a rural community (He services a number of the dragsters in the area). He said he had met a guy that was building "dryers" out of old window A/C units. He didn't't know the details but apparently the guy was running the air supply in one side of the old condenser, pumping fresh air across the coils with the fan to cool the air and then running the output through something like the motor guard M-60 (tolit paper) filter.
There are bound to be considerations involved in a system like this. One that comes to mind right off is oil contamination. I'm sure you'd want to have the old coils properly cleaned to remove any traces of oil in the system. But is anyone else familiar with this sort of set-up?
|07-27-2004 09:59 PM|
Also, do any mufflers make the compressors any quieter and if so, how and where to get them.
|07-27-2004 08:25 AM|
|Canadian Charlie||Great diagram, thanks for sharing|
|07-27-2004 08:15 AM|
|MRGM||You know anything about the compressor|
|07-26-2004 08:22 PM|
well the system is in my fathers garage where space is at a premium, there is no wall space to put lines as everything has shelves, and the shelves have everything
so my plan was to run a length stright up from the compressor to the ceiling, then run one stright down with a t fitting, with the stright part of the t going vertical, and a valve at the bottom of the t, horizontal side going to the water seperator/regulator.
edit compressor is a 7 hp 60 gal unit, single stage
and when i had stopped in and looked at the piping the galvenized said it was for water, and the black was for air/gas
|07-26-2004 05:57 PM|
if it is sch 40 black iron, you should be fine. but galvanized is better. for temp should be fine.
if you do the up to ceiling system thing, it would depend on the compressor and ceiling height.
the black pipe is not that expensive, you can even buy it at length you need, with the fittings. the longer the better.
can you describe a little bit more about your system and area of piping. sure we can come up with something.
|07-26-2004 04:48 PM|
i have my air compressor in my parents garage at the moment, so don't want to really fork over the $$ to setup a nice system like illustrated, but i am having a problem with water in the lines.
if i were to come straight out of my compressor and go up to the ceiling and then 180 back down with the water seperator there would it work? or does it need to be a good long length? right now i have the seperator and regulator right at the tank and it's just not workin
i got the pipe, it is iron pipe, the black stuff, and all the fittings to make it work, is this the right stuff? it's sh 40, so what would be my max psi?
|07-14-2004 03:46 AM|
|MRGM||i love this site, and i love the search function. was about to post a similar question. thanks|
|07-11-2004 01:51 PM|
|RetroJoe||This will help you, http://www.oldsmobility.com/air-compressor-piping.htm I'd go with sch 80 instead of sch 40.|
|07-09-2004 10:45 PM|
|BigMac||Thanks, Where is Nederland|
|07-09-2004 08:12 PM|
PVC is perfectly acceptable. Common water pipe PVC of schedule 40 is pressure tested to 450psi. Just be sure to get good glue joints.
|07-08-2004 11:29 PM|
|4 Jaw Chuck||
I thought this contraption was pretty cool.
|07-08-2004 08:53 PM|
|BigMac||when you use 3/4" tube, do you ever use pvc? I know this is not suppost to be the way, but I see alot being used.|
|07-06-2004 09:54 PM|
The trick to filtering out water, is to keep your lines from the compressor at a slight upward angle and put your filter as far as you can from the main tank and still be practical. Keep a down tube and drain valve at the main tank and at each outlet before the filter.
This lets the water in the line condense and flow back towards the tank and drain. The filters will not catch water vapor so it is important to have the water well condensed before it gets to the filter.
In my own shop I use 3/4 tube for the main line with the first filtered line outlet about 30 ft. from the compressor. This main line runs the length of the shop. It starts at the compressor about 28" from the floor and gradually reaches 40" at the end of 70 ft.
I have an automatic drain on the compressor tank that blows water out when the pressure drops below 5 lbs. The down tube valve at the tank is opened and drained periodically. All air outlet stations have a down tube and a valve to drain, before the filter.
I used to have a DeVilbiss air dryer in another shop and this home brew system does just about as good.
|This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|