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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-01-2009 01:28 PM
32sunsation
Need seal for 315 line-o-tronics lift

Anyone know where I may find a new seal for this cylinder. I have taken it apart and the seal has no identifing marks. Thanks, Jay
11-11-2009 06:56 PM
32sunsation Thanks, for the information Tubetek, I like that method better than cutting and welding. I didn't go by the shop today, but I will stop in tomorrow to see if that cylinder has the slot you speak of. J
11-11-2009 02:16 PM
TubeTek
Quote:
Originally Posted by gmc02jb
I have had my lift for several years and I can not get any information on it,the company is out of business my lift is model # 315 serial # 2003 the person I bought it from rebuilt the cylinder when it started to leak he said he had to cut the end off rebuild then weld it back back on,my lift does not give the capicity on it .
Although its not unheard of, its really rare to find a cylinder that has to be cut apart and welded back together for a rebuild. If a person isn't familiar with the various ways of building cylinders, its real easy to think a cylinder whose rod gland is held in with a lock wire can't be disassembled, when in truth its one of the easiest types to disassemble. I've repaired cylinders off a couple different unknown brand post type lifts, and both of them had lock wire cylinders. The only fully welded cylinders I've encountered were on military equipment where the entire cylinder was to be replaced as a unit rather than rebuilding.

A lock wire cylinder will have a slot about 3/4 to 1" long in the cylinder barrel a half inch or so down from the end of the barrel on the rod end. To remove the lock you rotate the head gland with a spanner wrench, pipe wrench, or whatever until the end of the wire shows up in the slot. The pry up slightly on the end of the wire and rotate the gland in the proper direction to wind it out thru the hole. To reassemble, locate the hole in the wire slot, hook the wire into the hole, and rotate the gland to wind the wire back into place.
11-11-2009 10:17 AM
32sunsation Thanks for the reply! I kind of figured that the company is out of business. I couldn't find anything on the internet. This lift belongs to a friend. I told him that I may be able to put new o-rings/seals if I could get it apart and take some measurements. Thanks again. J
11-11-2009 06:16 AM
gmc02jb
line-o-tronics model 315 2 post car lift

I have had my lift for several years and I can not get any information on it,the company is out of business my lift is model # 315 serial # 2003 the person I bought it from rebuilt the cylinder when it started to leak he said he had to cut the end off rebuild then weld it back back on,my lift does not give the capicity on it .
11-10-2009 06:50 PM
32sunsation
Help w/ 315 line-o-tronics lift

I am working on a 315 two post Line-o-tronics lift. Can anyone direct me to someone that may have a rebuild kit for the cylinder. I have no idea how old this unit is. Thanks J
03-26-2009 05:36 AM
gmc02jb
model 315 line-o-tronics car lift

If your lift is uneven side to side you have to adjust the cables opposite the motor with the lift all the way down no pressure on cables. I am having trouble with the arms on the slave side lean in when the the arms are straight they do not go straight on till I put the arms under the car,I can not find a weight rating on my lift model number 315 serial#2003 I would like any information I could on this lift. if possible private E Mail me a phone number and I will call for any information on this lift.
Jack
04-28-2007 08:39 PM
ryeguycamaro
2 post lift

I just purchased one also. Installed it and it lifts uneven, how do you adjust this? Is the any way to contact the company? I would like to find some sort of a manual. Any help
12-15-2004 01:50 PM
slarsen47 The motor is TWO horsepower. It should say on the info plate of the existing three phase motor. The big thing about voltage is the amount of current. A single phase 110 volt will require heavier wire because it will draw more amps. With the 230 volt single phase motor I used 12 gauge wire and a 20 amp dual pole breaker. If I recall it only draws a max of 8 amps at 230 volt. This would be 16 amps at 110-115 volts. All you need is three wires, two at 110 volt and ground. If you are not knowledgeable about electric wiring, this is best left to a professional. Electricity and wiring is serious business and not to be done in an unsafe manner, it can be extremely dangerous and life threatening, do not take any chances with this.

Follow the wiring from the electric motor. Where does it go ? Does it go to a six by eight inch electrical box on the vertical support ? There should be wires going from this box to the up/down switch. From the electrical box there may be a cord going to the three prong plug you mentioned. Basically the motor starter is a heavy duty switch that has thermal protection. The switch that you use to raise the lift just activates a solenoid in the motor starter to pull the heavy duty contacts together. YOUR SETUP COULD BE DIFFERENT. To let the lift down the motor is not used. The lever/switch just released hydraulic cylinder pressure.

The way the lift locks is to raise the vehicle to the height you want plus one or two inches and then let the lift down and the mechanical safety cams will engage against the H beam and hold the vehicle in place without the need for hydraulic pressure. Then when you want to let the vehicle down, you have to raise it a couple of inches to take the pressure off the cams, then hold the cam release lever (so they don't engage again) and let the hoist down.

I used an engine hoist to move the the slave post and the base around in my garage in the horizontal position. I would NOT try to use the engine hoist to lift the posts into position.

If you have 12 foot ceilings you should be able to rig up a temporary A frame type lift with a chain hoist or equivalent or some other type of equipment. Remember this stuff is fairly heavy and you must use safe lifting/hoisting practices.

There is nothing under the floor plate between the two posts. The cables go through the floor plate. The cables are protected by going through the floor plate. There is a channel for each cable approx 1.5 by 2.0 inches. Where the post sits on the base and is bolted there is a rectangular notch where the cable goes from the pulley and down into the base. To get the cables in or out you have to lift the post 4 - 6 inches for the ends to go through.

I have not used the hoist to store vehicles in a raised position because of this not being recommended for the type of vehicles I am working on. You get some frame flex and the suspension is fully unloaded. Some people say it is OK, what's the difference between four jack stands and a hoist ?

Regarding safety of the hoist, it is like every mechanical thing, use as per manufacturers recommendations, install properly, inspect and maintain components, operate properly. Remember there are four little pads that the car is sitting on. If one slips the car is only sitting on three and could fall. Newer hoists have locks for the arms to they cannot swivel. But if your pads are in good shape and the lifting points and solid there should not be a problem. If the lock mechanism is engaged, the hoist cannot come down unless there is some type of structural failure in a component. When locked the cables and hydraulic are not under any significant load. Remember need to let hoist down to engage the locking cams.

Personally, this type of hoist is best for working under the car without ramps in the way and the wheels free. For storage and some other mechanical operations the four post is the way to go. I also plan to install a four post when I can find a good used one. Mostly for storage purposes.
12-15-2004 12:17 PM
vinmeister
Quote:
Originally posted by slarsen47
I removed the 3 phase motor and purchased a single phase 230 volt motor. It cost me 250 dollars for the new motor. The new motor connects to the bottom of the hydraulic unit with four bolts just like the 3 phase motor. It is an industry standard bolt flange. 56 C or something like that. The motor I purchased also had the side plate that bolted up to the vertical support structure in the original holes. It was smooth, just unbolt one and bolt in the new one. There is an adapter on the motor shaft that must be removed and put onto the shaft of the new motor. This adapter used an allen head set screw that tightens down to the flat on the motor shaft. The adapter is slotted and engages the slotted drive of the hydraulic pump. Be careful in measuring and in determining the location of the adapter on the shaft. You don't want it too loose or too tight to the hydraulic pump drive lug.

Can you tell me the horsepower required? Also I don't see a motor starter on the one I am lookin at but I haven't looked at it very closely yet. As I said I had just plugged it in and pushed the lift control. Witch by the way the verticle rod is missing.
How do you feel about the safety feature in terms of drop prevention? Do you leave a car in the air?


First thing to do is to remove the four lift arms. This takes quite a bit of weight off what you have to move as one piece. Take note of the cable end with the bolts as to their location. My bolts threaded on about three inches from the end.

In terms of moving the unit, just unbolt the two posts (six) bolts. You have to lift each post about 3 - 4 inches in order to get the cable ends out past the pulleys. There is a hole in the top of each H beam post to put a clevice. This is the best place to lift. A fork lift makes the job easy. Once the two cables are out, they should be carefully wrapped not too tight and put in a clean bag or wrapped. Also inspect them for any damage prior to reassembly. The base is as you say about 11 and a half feet wide and is not too heavy. The slave post weights around 700 punds according to my calculation. The post with the hydraulic pump, tank and motor I would guess to weigh around 850 pounds. Before moving the post with the hydraulic unit, unscrew from the top of the tank the breather and put a pipe plug in its place for transportation. I think it was 1/2 inch pipe thread but don't recall exactly, but it is a standard pipe thread plug and should go in nicely just turning with you fingers. Once you have screwed it in by hand give it just a little bit of tightening with a wrench. Don't need much tightening, mine didn't leak a drop. If you fail to do this operation, you will have hydraulic oil all over the floor. When you install the hoist don't forget to put the breather back in. Anyway with a forlift just move the three pieces on to a flat bed trailer, tie down and transport to new location. Be careful of the heavy piece that holds the lift arms because it will slide or allow the post to slide.

I have access to a forklift where it is being removed from but not where it is going to. I have a 12 ft ceiling in my garage already so ceiling clearance for the side pieces shouldn't be an issue for me. what passes under the floor plate between the two posts?
I already have a shallow pit that this would cross over

I do not advise modifying the lift to make it thinner. It is a really excellent design and can almost be installed without concrete anchors...........but these must be installed in any case.

Because my garage doors are only 8 feet high, I had to drag the posts into the garage at an angle before I could lift them vertical. They are about 8 and a half feet high. This is simple, just lift the post off the trailer outside the garage and then carefully back the forklift into the garage. The forlift forks were put in the upside down position so the rack would not be an issue. Also the forklift forks were in the center position and held a steel beam that was about four or five feet long with a clevic hole at the end. When you back into the garage make sure to have the forklift down so you don't hit the top of the door frame or door. I put the bottom of the post on a heavy piece of wood (2 x 10) so it could slide without damage to drag it into the garage. Once inside the garage, I closed the overhead door so that I had my ceiling height back. Depending on your situation you may have higher doors and higher ceilings and don't have to worry about this step.

When you thread the cable through on installation make sure that the cable on the slave post goes behind the wheels of the safety catch. The catch engages when the cable goes slack.

I was able to move the hoist in my garage by hand to do a bit of fine tuning as far as location using a wood block and crowbar. Need to check the location of the garage roof trusses to make sure that the hydraulic cylinder would go up where there was no truss. I have a ten foot ceiling and the cylinder goes up onto the attic. I just build a little insulated box where the cylinder goes up and can get the hoist to full height. I am lifting Corvettes which are only 4 feet high so ceiling height is not an issue. For tall vehicles a 12 foot or higher ceiling would be much better.

I can't comment too much on the value......I got mine for very cheap and even with forklift rental ( I did my own operation of the forklift ), cost of motor I am under 900 dollars.

The last little hurdle is to wire the magnetic motor starter. Mine had a Furnas motor starter. When I started this project I knew nothing about these things, but now I know enough to wire one. It is very simple.

I am totally satified with the hoist. Looking at the way the new ones are designed, I don't think my low ceiling and 4-5 inch concrete floor could accomodate them.

I have probably left out a few small details since I did mine, but I think my text here captures most of the job. If you have any further questions please send me an email and I will get back to you or repost on this site.

I forgot to mention that the two posts each have two pulley wheels on the bottom that stick below the flange of the post by about one or two inches. DO NOT set the post down on the wheels or they could be damaged. If you are temporarily setting the posts down in the vertical position, place a few 2x6's or equivalent around the base so the wheels are clear. Also if you have to drag the posts make sure the wheels are free.
12-14-2004 08:48 PM
slarsen47 I removed the 3 phase motor and purchased a single phase 230 volt motor. It cost me 250 dollars for the new motor. The new motor connects to the bottom of the hydraulic unit with four bolts just like the 3 phase motor. It is an industry standard bolt flange. 56 C or something like that. The motor I purchased also had the side plate that bolted up to the vertical support structure in the original holes. It was smooth, just unbolt one and bolt in the new one. There is an adapter on the motor shaft that must be removed and put onto the shaft of the new motor. This adapter used an allen head set screw that tightens down to the flat on the motor shaft. The adapter is slotted and engages the slotted drive of the hydraulic pump. Be careful in measuring and in determining the location of the adapter on the shaft. You don't want it too loose or too tight to the hydraulic pump drive lug.

First thing to do is to remove the four lift arms. This takes quite a bit of weight off what you have to move as one piece. Take note of the cable end with the bolts as to their location. My bolts threaded on about three inches from the end.

In terms of moving the unit, just unbolt the two posts (six) bolts. You have to lift each post about 3 - 4 inches in order to get the cable ends out past the pulleys. There is a hole in the top of each H beam post to put a clevice. This is the best place to lift. A fork lift makes the job easy. Once the two cables are out, they should be carefully wrapped not too tight and put in a clean bag or wrapped. Also inspect them for any damage prior to reassembly. The base is as you say about 11 and a half feet wide and is not too heavy. The slave post weights around 700 punds according to my calculation. The post with the hydraulic pump, tank and motor I would guess to weigh around 850 pounds. Before moving the post with the hydraulic unit, unscrew from the top of the tank the breather and put a pipe plug in its place for transportation. I think it was 1/2 inch pipe thread but don't recall exactly, but it is a standard pipe thread plug and should go in nicely just turning with you fingers. Once you have screwed it in by hand give it just a little bit of tightening with a wrench. Don't need much tightening, mine didn't leak a drop. If you fail to do this operation, you will have hydraulic oil all over the floor. When you install the hoist don't forget to put the breather back in. Anyway with a forlift just move the three pieces on to a flat bed trailer, tie down and transport to new location. Be careful of the heavy piece that holds the lift arms because it will slide or allow the post to slide.

I do not advise modifying the lift to make it thinner. It is a really excellent design and can almost be installed without concrete anchors...........but these must be installed in any case.

Because my garage doors are only 8 feet high, I had to drag the posts into the garage at an angle before I could lift them vertical. They are about 8 and a half feet high. This is simple, just lift the post off the trailer outside the garage and then carefully back the forklift into the garage. The forlift forks were put in the upside down position so the rack would not be an issue. Also the forklift forks were in the center position and held a steel beam that was about four or five feet long with a clevic hole at the end. When you back into the garage make sure to have the forklift down so you don't hit the top of the door frame or door. I put the bottom of the post on a heavy piece of wood (2 x 10) so it could slide without damage to drag it into the garage. Once inside the garage, I closed the overhead door so that I had my ceiling height back. Depending on your situation you may have higher doors and higher ceilings and don't have to worry about this step.

When you thread the cable through on installation make sure that the cable on the slave post goes behind the wheels of the safety catch. The catch engages when the cable goes slack.

I was able to move the hoist in my garage by hand to do a bit of fine tuning as far as location using a wood block and crowbar. Need to check the location of the garage roof trusses to make sure that the hydraulic cylinder would go up where there was no truss. I have a ten foot ceiling and the cylinder goes up onto the attic. I just build a little insulated box where the cylinder goes up and can get the hoist to full height. I am lifting Corvettes which are only 4 feet high so ceiling height is not an issue. For tall vehicles a 12 foot or higher ceiling would be much better.

I can't comment too much on the value......I got mine for very cheap and even with forklift rental ( I did my own operation of the forklift ), cost of motor I am under 900 dollars.

The last little hurdle is to wire the magnetic motor starter. Mine had a Furnas motor starter. When I started this project I knew nothing about these things, but now I know enough to wire one. It is very simple.

I am totally satified with the hoist. Looking at the way the new ones are designed, I don't think my low ceiling and 4-5 inch concrete floor could accomodate them.

I have probably left out a few small details since I did mine, but I think my text here captures most of the job. If you have any further questions please send me an email and I will get back to you or repost on this site.

I forgot to mention that the two posts each have two pulley wheels on the bottom that stick below the flange of the post by about one or two inches. DO NOT set the post down on the wheels or they could be damaged. If you are temporarily setting the posts down in the vertical position, place a few 2x6's or equivalent around the base so the wheels are clear. Also if you have to drag the posts make sure the wheels are free.
12-14-2004 07:38 PM
vinmeister
Line-O-Tronics Model 315

Hi
I am considering bartering for one of these lifts. It is currently a 3 phase motor with a 30 amp twist lock plug. One of the posters here has done the conversion to 2 phase 208. What was reqired and how expencive was the change over. The unit I am considering has a fully accessible and readable nameplate. It says where it was manufactured and that it is 8000 lb rated. Also the poster said that he used a forklift to position the unit. I have to break it down and transport it. Can the unit be made thinner? It is currently 12 feet from outside to outside and it might not fit in its destination garage. Also what would you estimate the units worth given unknown age and work to make it usable in my application. It seems to be working now as it goes up smoothly. I haven't tried it under load as of yet. Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Vinnie
11-21-2004 01:30 AM
slarsen47 About 2.5 hours cruising at 70 (120 km/h) on the four lane in the Grand Marquis.........
11-21-2004 01:12 AM
sbchevfreak Oh, I guess Airdrie is a little bit of a drive!
11-16-2004 10:26 PM
slarsen47 Lethbridge
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